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battery relocation

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Vinesh
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battery relocation

Postby Vinesh » December 10th, 2009, 1:23 am

any tips? i plan on using 0 gauge wire. and i am relocating the battery to the trunk. why is a battery box a should have?

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belalegosi
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Postby belalegosi » December 10th, 2009, 2:45 am

is it fwd or rwd or awd?
if its fwd I dont recommend putting it in the trunk, it will just throw off the weight distribution. Also it would be adding more of a resistance for the engine to "pull".
I would keep it in the front and try to move it as closer to the front tires as possible.
I know the pics is blurry but its too cold outside for me to go snap another one. But anyways I mounted mine in the bumper. You would need to fabricated bracket to hold it though. Just get a welder to make you one lol
Image


wrt to the battery box. Its because batterys emit harmful stuff. Also it protects the terminals from accidently shorting it out. Plus it secures the battery better from rolling around etc

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Postby Strugglerzinc » December 10th, 2009, 7:47 am

You should know that in modern cars, the battery is placed in a location that would be difficult to compromise in the event of an accident as a ruptured battery can cause fire.

A front bumper is not the most advisable place to have your battery as a small fender bender can now damage that battery.

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Postby hong kong phooey » December 10th, 2009, 8:27 am

Struggler Zinc is right. Battery give of hydrogen during charging which is very flammable. Your front bumper is the worst place to place your battery in case of accidents.

There is no problems with placing your battery in the trunk. Just use oversized wires and fuse it correctly. I recommend you fse both in the bonnet and the trunk. Use a proper distribution block in the bonnet and ensure everything is tighten correctly

Route your wires so as to prevent movement and rubbing which can damage you insulation

Just remember ist is just 12 volts but it is lots of amps which can cause overheating/shorting --- fire

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Postby belalegosi » December 10th, 2009, 10:31 am

yes, putting the battery in the bumper puts the battery at greater risk of being damaged in an accident. But if he's contemplating moving his battery I would think it is a given that he would understand the dangers involved in moving a battery from stock location :|

Battery give of hydrogen during charging which is very flammable. Your front bumper is the worst place to place your battery in case of accidents.

Yes hydrogen is flammable. However, your battery does not, in fact should not, be emitting hydrogen at such a rate that it would become explosive.
Also, assuming what you said is true, placing a battery in a battery box (which is sealed) in a trunk (more sealing) would be creating a bomb:| The hydrogen would just be collecting and concentrating until a spark is had:|


There is no problems with placing your battery in the trunk. Just use oversized wires and fuse it correctly. I recommend you fse both in the bonnet and the trunk. Use a proper distribution block in the bonnet and ensure everything is tighten correctly


you can fuse it in the trunk, under the hood and every 6 inches along the wire. It wont make a differrent. 1000000 fuses on a single wire would be the same as 1 fuse.

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Postby Vinesh » December 10th, 2009, 12:55 pm

jnqaz, thx its a rwd. i already have a battery frame. but its a gel battery so is it still necessary to get a battery box? what kind of fuse to use? but i realise they isnt any from the battery to the engine.

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Postby cinco » December 10th, 2009, 1:12 pm

before you put a battery in the trunk please ensure it is a closed cell battery (dry) dont be puttin a normal wet battery in the trunk.
you should be ok even if its fwd (its front heavy anyway)

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Vinesh
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Postby Vinesh » December 10th, 2009, 1:46 pm

yea gel is a dry battery. so i guess i dont need the battery box since its a dry battery

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belalegosi
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Postby belalegosi » December 10th, 2009, 4:04 pm

you still need a battery box. Dont cheap out homez, they're cheap :|

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Postby sigma-turbo » December 10th, 2009, 4:42 pm

i like to putt all trunk mounted batteries in a sealed box that is vented to the underside of the car

like this
http://limerock.racingjunk.com/category ... x-Kit.html

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Postby Vinesh » December 10th, 2009, 5:50 pm

no well idk ima look into the battery box. 0 gauge wire is good enough or is it too thick?

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Postby cinco » December 10th, 2009, 6:08 pm

get the box
0 guage is good never cheap out on wire especially one thats running the length of your car

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Postby Vinesh » December 10th, 2009, 6:38 pm

k so a check list
20 feet of 0 gauge wire
some distribution blocks
battery box

and just work to suit?

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Postby belalegosi » December 10th, 2009, 6:47 pm

yep
i think 0 guage is overkill though.. i used 4g for mine

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Postby cinco » December 10th, 2009, 7:08 pm

good list
and make sure you get good wire cant stress this enough

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Postby Vinesh » December 10th, 2009, 7:08 pm

yup stinger products ftw!

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Postby hong kong phooey » December 11th, 2009, 6:08 pm

jnqaz wrote:
you can fuse it in the trunk, under the hood and every 6 inches along the wire. It wont make a differrent. 1000000 fuses on a single wire would be the same as 1 fuse.



hoss the reason for the fuse in the bonnet and the trunk is because your batery is a source and your alternator is a source
Some vehicle the alternator is not fused so if your wire from front to back gets damaged yor battery cct breaker will trip cutting off that supply but your alternator will continue delivering power until u shut off the car or the rectifier blows

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Postby sigma-turbo » December 11th, 2009, 7:34 pm

put in a battery isolation switch while your at it

flicking a switch sure beats having to open a sealed battery box if you need to kill power while working on the car

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Postby kurpal_v2 » December 11th, 2009, 8:41 pm

Just an Idea to add

Ive seen some iasca competitors who add batteries in their trunk use plexi and mdf to create a sealed housing for the battery with a removable top. Then they vent the battery enclosure using a hose (garden hose even) and run it from the interior into the back bumper where there are vents (afaik) that lead out your car..

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Postby belalegosi » December 12th, 2009, 12:01 am

hong kong phooey wrote:
jnqaz wrote:
you can fuse it in the trunk, under the hood and every 6 inches along the wire. It wont make a differrent. 1000000 fuses on a single wire would be the same as 1 fuse.



hoss the reason for the fuse in the bonnet and the trunk is because your batery is a source and your alternator is a source
Some vehicle the alternator is not fused so if your wire from front to back gets damaged yor battery cct breaker will trip cutting off that supply but your alternator will continue delivering power until u shut off the car or the rectifier blows


Important Notice PLEASE USE PROPER ENGLISH when posting, especially in the technical forums.


one more time :?

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Postby Hook » December 12th, 2009, 1:01 pm

^^^ lol I understood what he's saying.

Basically it means that both battery and alternator are power sources and each should be fused separately. In the event that the +ve battery wire is breached, the battery fuse will blow but the car should still function on alternator power. OR if there is a serious problem with the alternator, THAT fuse will blow and isolate the battery so u can limp home on battery power.

Vinesh, be absolutely certain that NO PART of the positive battery wire's sheathing should come in contact with any sharp edges on any hole it has to pass through. Use proper grommets and secure the wire (with zip ties or whatever) to minimize vibration/movement that could cause it to rub against anything sharp and breach the insulation.

Also, if you have an audio system in the car with trunk-mounted amplifiers etc. keep your power wire as far from your RCA cables as possible to avoid alternator noise in your music.
One method is to run the power cable along the centre ridge of the car and the RCA's along the door's edge.
Ensure proper ground connections to chassis at the trunk (sand it to bare metal by your bolt point and use electrical grease to prevent corrosion) with a ground wire no more than 18" long (it's another car audio tip on grounding).

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Postby belalegosi » December 12th, 2009, 1:54 pm

Hook wrote:^^^ lol I understood what he's saying.

Basically it means that both battery and alternator are power sources and each should be fused separately. In the event that the +ve battery wire is breached, the battery fuse will blow but the car should still function on alternator power. OR if there is a serious problem with the alternator, THAT fuse will blow and isolate the battery so u can limp home on battery power.


werd 8-)
But, unless I'm mistaken the stock wiring for the alternator is fused. Why would you interfere with it?
Ok I guess my idea of relocating is a bit different :? What I usually do when I move my battery's is I [b]keep[b] everything as stock as possible. I usually just run one hot wire from the batt pos to a common point in the engine bay, a distributor if you wanna call it that. Then I have all the stock wiring for the batt + meet at that point.

Why I do that? Because one time I forgot to re-install my starter and alternator leads when I messed with the battery. I had to drive 18 miles on battery alone, through the city :cry:
Fun? --> no

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Postby Dave-ve » December 12th, 2009, 4:38 pm

did a battery relocation recently. used 0 gauge wire with a fuse and distribution block in the engine bay and a circuit breaker in the trunk. I chose to make a battery box out of mdf & plexi because it's sturdier than the plastic box and would not deform if any cargo in the trunk moves about.

Image

there's a steel frame bolted to the floor that actually holds the battery (sealed) and the mdf covering is placed over it.



I usually just run one hot wire from the batt pos to a common point in the engine bay, a distributor if you wanna call it that. Then I have all the stock wiring for the batt + meet at that point.


easiest way to do it.

20 feet of 0 gauge wire
some distribution blocks
battery box

lugs for the cable ends
fuse and circuit breaker

it's better to use 0 gauge wire . the 4 gauge is rated to handle the amperage, but you also have to take into account the voltage drop and the resistance of the copper that will also be a load on the system.

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Postby kurpal_v2 » December 13th, 2009, 9:01 am

it's better to use 0 gauge wire . the 4 gauge is rated to handle the amperage, but you also have to take into account the voltage drop and the resistance of the copper that will also be a load on the system.




Overkill is always just enough when it comes to such wires..

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Postby hong kong phooey » December 14th, 2009, 8:12 am

ignaz you did not understand any thing i was saying because, is seems u know nothing about electricity.
most of the information you gave on this page was wrong

if you relocating your battery in the trunk for music purpose definitely go with the 0 gauge. your wire will be a lot cooler
i would recomend over 0 gauge over 4awg for the application if u have the extra money . just remember to fuse accordingly. 4awg is aprox a hundred amp fuse 0 awg is about 250 amps

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Re: battery relocation

Postby V2NR 3.0 » December 14th, 2009, 8:52 am

Vinesh wrote:any tips? i plan on using 0 gauge wire. and i am relocating the battery to the trunk. why is a battery box a should have?


Good Morning, Why are you thinking about putting your battery in the trunk ?. Is it to make space for a cold air intake or perhaps inter-cooler piping ? I initially had my battery in the trunk and relocated it back to the front.

If putting your battery in the trunk consider:

1. 0 gauge wire is appropriate.
2. Your upholstery would be upset and dismantled to run out this wire.
3. Re-locating the battery to the trunk places an ignition source to your gas tank in the event of impact.
4. There would/may be volatage loss because of the distance.
5. A battery box is used to encase the battery and protect and stabilize.

Its strongly advised against doing this for your own safety.

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Postby belalegosi » December 14th, 2009, 7:03 pm

hong kong phooey wrote:ignaz you did not understand any thing i was saying because, is seems u know nothing about electricity.
most of the information you gave on this page was wrong


if you relocating your battery in the trunk for music purpose definitely go with the 0 gauge. your wire will be a lot cooler
i would recomend over 0 gauge over 4awg for the application if u have the extra money . just remember to fuse accordingly. 4awg is aprox a hundred amp fuse 0 awg is about 250 amps


lol
sorry boss. I'm a noob and never did any electrical work on my car.
I just troll forums and pretend like I actually work on my own car :(

*burns projects and withdraws from msee program*
:cry:


anyways since I fail at electricity please tell me how putting 10 fuses in series if greater than having one fuse? Or in fact I'll make it easier for you, you choose the number of fuses and tell me how putting them in series is greater than one.
If Hook translated what you said correctly, every car I've worked on thus far came with a fused alternator hot lead. But according to you adding more fuses the better which I do hope you explain the benefits of this to me.

Additionally, there is no reason to relocate a battery to the trunk for "music purposes". Think about it.
Moving the battery to the trunk is more for cleaner engine bay or more room. Well thats why I moved mine but then again I dont know anything.

Also, yes I do believe that if you have music, it would be best to run 0 gauge. But as far as power demand of typical engine, you dont need 0 gauge. Have you ever looked at your factory wiring? But thats just me...
I need to be educated, so school me chief.

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Vinesh
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Postby Vinesh » December 15th, 2009, 1:05 am

jnqaz, doh loud up de man so na!
i would be working on this project this month would post some pics. but i dont understand y am i putting a fuse if the factory wire doesnt carry one :S

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Postby belalegosi » December 15th, 2009, 3:44 am

^^it annoys the heck outta me when people just repeat what other people say and feel they know what they're doing. eg hong kong psomething.


anyways the fuse is the added security. You're running a long hot lead from the trunk to the front. Increase risk of wire insulation exposing the wire and shorting, or wire pulling to much current.
Or you could do what hong kong guy said and add multiple fuses along the length of the lead since I guess I dont know what I say :cry:

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Postby hong kong phooey » December 15th, 2009, 7:43 am

ignaz as you said, you are a noob
so i wont bother arguing with you.

i said to put two fuses or cct breaker
one in the trunk and one in the bonnet

dont know where you got 10 from unless u speaking binary where 10 =2

i stated my reason for placing two fuses

i do agree with you that there is no reason to move the battery to the trunk, but that is the guys choice and what we here for is give him some constructive help in doing it.

its sad there no way to teach you common sense

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