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battery relocation

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Vinesh
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Postby Vinesh » December 15th, 2009, 9:35 am

jnqaz, lol i am a noob to wiring and i know that doesn't makes sense. but what u mean by hot lead? so one from the front to the back and the next one. where that going?

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hong kong phooey
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Postby hong kong phooey » December 15th, 2009, 9:51 am

the hot lead he means the live line--- the 12 volt wire
the other line the negative will connect to your chassis

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belalegosi
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Postby belalegosi » December 15th, 2009, 1:37 pm

hong kong phooey wrote:ignaz as you said, you are a noob
so i wont bother arguing with you.

i said to put two fuses or cct breaker
one in the trunk and one in the bonnet

dont know where you got 10 from unless u speaking binary where 10 =2

i stated my reason for placing two fuses

i do agree with you that there is no reason to move the battery to the trunk, but that is the guys choice and what we here for is give him some constructive help in doing it.

its sad there no way to teach you common sense



Image


*sigh*
Intelligence of humanity is becoming a rarity.
i guess you did not sense the level of sarcasm... but thats ok I dont expect much from you anymore :?

Yes, fusing the alternator lead and battery lead is good. But the alternator lead should already be used. Also you should not have any need to modify/move the alternator lead unless you intend to do a wire tuck or modifying your alternator.
I would insert sarcasm here to end my input, but some readers are having problems interpreting it.
So I'll be frank, I'm right.

FYI 10 in binary is 1010, its "A" in hex. "2" does not exist in binary and "2" is "2" in hex.:roll:

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hong kong phooey
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Postby hong kong phooey » December 15th, 2009, 1:52 pm

jnqaz wrote:FYI 10 in binary is 1010, its "A" in hex. "2" does not exist in binary and "2" is "2" in hex.:roll:


hoss take win after i see this i know what i dealing with

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TechArt
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Postby TechArt » December 24th, 2009, 5:54 pm

Hmmm hong kong phooey is quite correct about installing fuses front and rear (Its called fault co-ordination, You could use a fused distribution block infront for the two major loads leaving a spare for a new load like HID kits, with a similar setup on the rear using one to link a second battery shud you desire to. A battery Isolator is a really nice item to use in your install, you can isolate pwr to the car easily as well as a second battery. So lets say you feel like charging the battery, just pop the trunk isolate n pop the leads on and charge the battery. (Don't over rate the fuses, check the loads and try and match them)

Use stinger 0 gauge with quality distribution blocks, I am almost done with my relocation of a optima red to d trunk. Good luck n take your time, a few beers in the fridge is nice to have.

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D_bodyguard
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Postby D_bodyguard » December 24th, 2009, 6:34 pm

TechArt wrote:Good luck n take your time, a few beers in the fridge is nice to have.


lol.....after the work does be nice .....during work is nice too if you wanna see fireworks ....lol

but seriously what hong kong phooey said it very correct ...also if you can apply a little solder to all terminals and crimp properly is a extra plus .....make sure grounding point is clean and free from insulators.

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Vinesh
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Postby Vinesh » December 24th, 2009, 8:07 pm

Image
how this lookin and where exactly to put the fuses

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belalegosi
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Postby belalegosi » January 14th, 2010, 5:50 pm


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Pinky
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Postby Pinky » January 14th, 2010, 7:20 pm

There is nothing wrong with having your battery in your trunk, BMW does it just secure your wires properly and solder all your connections a battery kill switch is an option i have plastic battery boxes which would prevent acid spilling. contact me.

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Re: battery relocation

Postby Rayden6 » March 9th, 2022, 6:46 pm

Battery located to trunk, fused 4awg upgraded Alternator from 100 to 150 New internal parts. Do i send Alternator Positive straight to batter of to starter and what gauge wire to use.? Need help

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Re: battery relocation

Postby adnj » March 9th, 2022, 7:46 pm

The cable size depends on the load and length of cable. If you are starting a 4 cyl gasoline engine, expect about 150 cranking amps. More cylinders or a diesel engine will require more amperage.

There is a ton of information on the web.

If you are adding a second battery, voltage drop is not critical when you connect the second battery's positive terminal to the positive terminal of the primary battery.

https://jascoautomotive.com/automotive- ... ity-chart/Image

partworld4
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Re: battery relocation

Postby partworld4 » March 25th, 2022, 6:44 pm

Hello buddy

jamd22
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Re: battery relocation

Postby jamd22 » March 31st, 2022, 5:52 am

Hello buddy

Rayden6
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Re: battery relocation

Postby Rayden6 » December 22nd, 2022, 11:25 pm

Currently installing 3/0 welding lead front to back with 0Awg IN X 2 4Awg outs under the hood fused 1 for car electrical the other for Alternator.
Starter run separately to fused in trunk looking to put Optima 27M blue top. Should I put a battery box? Using brass lugs to make wire connections on battery.

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