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idler pulley bearing

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eitech
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idler pulley bearing

Postby eitech » October 18th, 2009, 11:07 pm

i replaced thre ac belt on the qg15 this mornin and i realised that the idler pulley bearing was feeling a lil rough when i spun it on my finger..What would cause this bearing to go bad? Right now i not hearing any funny noises though. Finally, can the bearing alone be replaced or do i need to look for the entire piece?

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De Dragon
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Re: idler pulley bearing

Postby De Dragon » October 19th, 2009, 1:21 am

eitech wrote:i replaced thre ac belt on the qg15 this mornin and i realised that the idler pulley bearing was feeling a lil rough when i spun it on my finger..What would cause this bearing to go bad? Right now i not hearing any funny noises though. Finally, can the bearing alone be replaced or do i need to look for the entire piece?

I replaced one recently on my Honda Civic. Nissan.............I'm thinking maybe.......? Post in Nissan Forum for more answers.

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Postby praise » October 19th, 2009, 8:07 am

The bearing alone can be easily replace. You can tap out the old one and get the new one press in. The bearing is size is 6202. Usually over tensioning the belt causes the problem you are experiencing.

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Postby Hook » October 19th, 2009, 10:29 am

^^^ word!

But very few ppl have a belt tensiometer (actually I don't know of any mechanic who has one, but I'm sure there must be one...somewhere...where ever he is... :| ).
Is there any way to at least put a good but safe tension on your accessory belts to prevent premature bearing and/or belt failure?

MY test unvolves finding the longest stretch of the belt between pulleys and attempting to twist it perpendicular (ie. with ribs vertical). If it can just barely twist perpendicular, then it's around the correct tension. I haven't had any problems with this.
Is this a safe practice?

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Postby Dave » October 19th, 2009, 10:54 am

yup, i usually do about 1/4" deflection at the longest stretch point

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THE SYNDICATE
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Postby THE SYNDICATE » October 19th, 2009, 4:39 pm

^^good info!

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eitech
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Postby eitech » October 19th, 2009, 8:11 pm

praise wrote:The bearing alone can be easily replace. You can tap out the old one and get the new one press in. The bearing is size is 6202. Usually over tensioning the belt causes the problem you are experiencing.


ok kool. so u sure that's d size bearing for the b15? And where can i source it? i from the san juan area

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Postby praise » October 20th, 2009, 8:21 am

My mistake, the correct size is 6203. And you can get it at most parts outlet. Buy Japanese brand however, NSK, Koyo, NTN etc.

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Postby crazybalhead » October 20th, 2009, 9:50 am

eitech, you in san yuan man!!!!!!!! United bearings right in barataria!!

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Hook
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Postby Hook » October 20th, 2009, 9:52 am

^^^ I was thinking that when he asked eh....on the EMR after the gas station heading west? same compound with Super Brite Dry Cleaners? Haven't been in that area in ages tho :|

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eitech
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Postby eitech » October 20th, 2009, 6:29 pm

ok kool..i called a place in d bamboo and dey say i cud get a whole tension pulley fuh $100..used of course..

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Postby Strugglerzinc » October 20th, 2009, 7:07 pm

changing that bearing is DIY. one bolt and it out. not even necessary to press in.

6203 is correct.

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Re: idler pulley bearing

Postby Rayden6 » December 22nd, 2022, 5:12 pm

Y11 QG15 Cable type
Changed mine today used a NSK 6301 $30
Alternator Belt is 6PK1110 $85 Bando
Power steer 3PK855 $45 Bando and Crank seal $25
As I in there changed all one time.
Seal came out with no effort put thread seal on the outside so it fits tight on timing cover.

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