WANT 2 UPGRADE MY QG16.EITHER TURBO IT.NEED 2 MAKE IT FASTER

[SouthZone]

Nissan Almera QG16
WHO COULD HELP ME UPGRADE MY QG16.
WANT TO TURBO IT OR MAKE IT FASTER.
WHAT COULD I DO TO MAKE IT FASTER RITE NOW?

497-9365 BRIAN.

[nervewrecker]

change the whole friggin engine

put a qg 18 or 20, supposed to fit up noice in there.

you might spend more money on toboing up dat engine & mainting it. you will wear it out b4 time & still end up changin it.

[^^!SPAWN!^^]

^^X2 .

[b18b_turbo]

QG16 has nothing much to work with on a "low" budget.

it makes no sense

[THE SYNDICATE]

change the whole friggin engine

put a qg 18 or 20, supposed to fit up noice in there.

you might spend more money on toboing up dat engine & mainting it. you will wear it out b4 time & still end up changin it.

Agreed!

[ryansouthman]

extractors, FPR, coilpacks (nology), port and polish head......

[bushwakka]

jus change de engine....unless u want headache...

[VIP2Nr]

^^ X2

everyone wanna go fast boy....

[QG]

Nissan Almera QG16
WHO COULD HELP ME UPGRADE MY QG16.
WANT TO TURBO IT OR MAKE IT FASTER.
WHAT COULD I DO TO MAKE IT FASTER RITE NOW?

497-9365 BRIAN.

For starters, you need to remove your stock air breather and put in a cold air intake kit with a K&N filter, remove your manifold and get Headers (Extractors) and run 2" pipe for your exhaust system...removing the catalyst as well, this takes away restriction. Be sure t get a resonator to ease down the noie a bit and get a barrel with a silencer....u can adjust how loud your car may sound.

Next you should get Irridium Spark Plugs...I recommend NGK5RE IX IRRIDIUMS, works real good and use Castrol Syntec Oil or any other Synthetic oils with 5W 50 to give u that extra kick u need.

Shave the engine head at a machine shop to get more compression. Another step u can take is to polish out all them ports in the engine...this removes restriction and improve better flow within.

You can get a DIS 2 Ignition System, GA's can use the MSD Ignition 6A because they use Distributors...however QG's are newer and don't use distributor instead they use coil on plug. So a DIS2 (Direct Ignition System 2) would be required to work with the QG.

Hope this helps...PM me for any questions.

[Sheriff!]

Nissan Almera QG16
WHO COULD HELP ME UPGRADE MY QG16.
WANT TO TURBO IT OR MAKE IT FASTER.
WHAT COULD I DO TO MAKE IT FASTER RITE NOW?

497-9365 BRIAN.

yow dude! if u try 2 upgrade that engine u will spend realllllll money on it then u will want more speed then u go have to change for a bigger 1! advice go wit a sr and mod the sr! also u will have to do work on d car to handle the speed!

[bushwakka]

Nissan Almera QG16
WHO COULD HELP ME UPGRADE MY QG16.
WANT TO TURBO IT OR MAKE IT FASTER.
WHAT COULD I DO TO MAKE IT FASTER RITE NOW?

497-9365 BRIAN.

For starters, you need to remove your stock air breather and put in a cold air intake kit with a K&N filter, remove your manifold and get Headers (Extractors) and run 2" pipe for your exhaust system...removing the catalyst as well, this takes away restriction. Be sure t get a resonator to ease down the noie a bit and get a barrel with a silencer....u can adjust how loud your car may sound.

Next you should get Irridium Spark Plugs...I recommend NGK5RE IX IRRIDIUMS, works real good and use Castrol Syntec Oil or any other Synthetic oils with 5W 50 to give u that extra kick u need.

Shave the engine head at a machine shop to get more compression. Another step u can take is to polish out all them ports in the engine...this removes restriction and improve better flow within.

You can get a DIS 2 Ignition System, GA's can use the MSD Ignition 6A because they use Distributors...however QG's are newer and don't use distributor instead they use coil on plug. So a DIS2 (Direct Ignition System 2) would be required to work with the QG.

Hope this helps...PM me for any questions.

approximately how much gain does all these mods give?

[QG]

I am not no dyno experts. But seeing these mods done to a GA15DE gearbox (with MSD 6A) and was able to compete against a SR20VVL on 1st, 2nd and going on 3rd before the VVL washed him on the cross...I'd say good HP gains. So why can't a QG accomplish this when both GA and QG are similar?

[Sheriff!]

I am not no dyno experts. But seeing these mods done to a GA15DE gearbox (with MSD 6A) and was able to compete against a SR20VVL on 1st, 2nd and going on 3rd before the VVL washed him on the cross...I'd say good HP gains. So why can't a QG accomplish this when both GA and QG are similar?

1 the sr driver could not have probly drive,2 the qg is a low compression economic engine and 3 the cost to soup it up and by the time u get the h.p up 2 max its the same hp as a stock sr! so spen d money and put in d sr!

[QG]

1 the sr20vvl driver is my padna and he is good driver. 2 the GA15 B14 driver is also my padna. 3 We always do crazy experiments to squeeze power out of our rides. 4 for an econo engine, QG has more compression than a GA.

[Alpha_2nr]

I am not no dyno experts. But seeing these mods done to a GA15DE gearbox (with MSD 6A) and was able to compete against a SR20VVL on 1st, 2nd and going on 3rd before the VVL washed him on the cross...I'd say good HP gains. So why can't a QG accomplish this when both GA and QG are similar?

Please

That's macko-dyno gains there.

Post REAL numbers. Times. HP. Tq.

If you got nothing else....go fly a kite.....or better yet, follow what everyone ELSE is saying in this thread and swap the engine.

There is nothing performance oriented about a QG series engine. Period (and I do mean even QG18).

[Rainman]

QG series engines are designed for better fuel comsumption not racing, if you wanted a fast car you should have bought one to begin with. I agree with swappig out the engine, but then you will have to upgrade suspension and brakes as well it's all one big headache. but if you have deep pockets and a lot of free time...fix up.

[nervewrecker]

I find the co9ld air intake does make a difference. but mostly on mornings & late wen place cool on the outside, during the day is hot air it taking in...

I hav noticed a big difference in performance.

[bushwakka]

this is precisely wut i sayin, it hav men in dis thread who jes sayin throw in so and so and u'll get gains....but from a quantitive point of view...how much exactly?

does it make sense to do all that for jus 10 hp if so much?
when u hav a slow car, it seems as if almost anything u change out from the stock will be faster to u, cuz u expecting it in ur head too

do a baseline stock test on a dyno and then dyno the car again after u'll drop in all these mods, and then we cud have a real discussion

[OldSkoolRule]

Because the QG is LOW-COMPRESSION and have an economy oriented head, it it IDEAL to turbocharge!! fuel is your only major concern, and thas easy to correct. We took a GA16DE VTC and and made it DET, in a b11 sunny. it ingests 8psi boost everyday (and handles 18lbs to race) as its the official parts runner for the garage. Think again fellas, that the diference between a mechanic and a tuner.

[THE SYNDICATE]

8psi boost everyday (and handles 18lbs to race)

IMPRESSIVE MAN........

[Alpha_2nr]

Because the QG is LOW-COMPRESSION and have an economy oriented head, it it IDEAL to turbocharge!!

So wait wait wait.....

Because it's low compression it's ideal to turbocharge?

The strength of the block and / or internals/fuel/availibilty of parts have nothing to do with that? Just tobo it, and put eeen some mo' fuel and yuh good to go?

No extra oil cooling? No extra oil capacity? No upgraded radiator? What about enginemanagement (no piggyback here)....the GA16 hardly has support outside of a piggyback unit.

Wow....amazing stuff bro (yeah right)

How reliable is it?

How did you size your turbo? (- hint hint.....it involves the use of compressor maps).

How did you choose the size of your injectors?

Did you dyno while tuning?

[OldSkoolRule]

Because the QG is LOW-COMPRESSION and have an economy oriented head, it it IDEAL to turbocharge!!

So wait wait wait.....

Because it's low compression it's ideal to turbocharge?

The strength of the block and / or internals/fuel/availibilty of parts have nothing to do with that? Just tobo it, and put eeen some mo' fuel and yuh good to go?

No extra oil cooling? No extra oil capacity? No upgraded radiator? What about enginemanagement (no piggyback here)....the GA16 hardly has support outside of a piggyback unit.

Wow....amazing stuff bro (yeah right)

How reliable is it?

How did you size your turbo? (- hint hint.....it involves the use of compressor maps).

How did you choose the size of your injectors?

Did you dyno while tuning?

Allyuh does read too much friggin 'Import Tuner'. Yes, an upgraded rotating assembly will help cuz we've had spun bearings once. pistons, rods and crank haven't failed. Stock injectors trim sufficiently until 3psi, where a 5th injector kicks in (must admit, fuel enrichment should've been done differently, but this works). The Vtc has been disabled as it makes the intake timing too aggressive under boost.

but i not e-racing/e-tuning like allyuh, i talkin from experience and about a real car that runs everyday reliably in TRINIDAD. The car belongs to Solomon's Auto Garage, and is for sale right now (23k, it bess btw). so ANYBODY who wanna doubt, and and talk up in dey mudda cnut just because dey is a 3ne2nr member and have a lil fuel-injected ride, could see some proof.

[Alpha_2nr]

but i not e-racing/e-tuning like allyuh, i talkin from experience and about a real car that runs everyday reliably in TRINIDAD. The car belongs to Solomon's Auto Garage, and is for sale right now (23k, it bess btw). so ANYBODY who wanna doubt, and and talk up in dey mudda cnut just because dey is a 3ne2nr member and have a lil fuel-injected ride, could see some proof..

Who's E-RACING here? Wait..... <thinks carefully>....oh I AM!!!

All I did was ask some simple questions......but yet you take offense.

I'm sorry that my questions offended such a tuning expert like yourself. Lord only knows that I have no hands-on-experience wit "tobo" and thing......all I was speaking from was my e-tuning experience by having read countless of Import tuner and Turbo mags on the floor of my 10x12 wooden shack, while pretending to tune two of my "Jada Toys" 1:24 model cars....and making funny "car" and BOV sounds while I'm at it.

I keep telling people that I going to install a single T3/T4 turbo with a 0.67 backend on my ultra-tuned B13 with a RB28DETTTT in it, cuz I have no idea about turbos, nor ever even see one in real.

I mean....the above must be true right? Cuz "allyuh" (meaning we/me/other people on this site) does only e-tune/e-race.

[OldSkoolRule]

'^^^RB28DETTTT'- lol what can i say dude?; Sarcasm begets flames.....
Anyways, some 'simple' answers to your simple questions (tryin to ignore your smug point of view):

1) Reliability??- The car runs everyday, freeport to chaguaramas 2-3 days for the week, loaded with tools that sometimes include welding equip't. freeport to south for parts on average, every other day. and countless errand runs within the area.
Absolutely no reliability issues, and this b11 can be scanned. (it was wired by us, up to the A/C & P/S signals, etc are functional.

2)Turbo Sizing??- Yes, compressor AND turbine characteristics were considered but not crammed upon as if we had the $$ to order a custom turbo. This is Nissan country, where you can buy an SR20 turbo unit almost anywhere, the SR was used seeing that the turbine section was intended for a 2000cc engine to breathe thru, it spools a bit later (4400rpm) but maintains the fuel economy and driveability of the N/A engine throughout a useable rpm range when the car is driven on the road AMONGST traffic and 'normal' road users. the SR unit was perfect for the job mainly because of $$ and its characteristics.

3) Injector sizing??- tried OEM SR18 and SR20 injectors, suffered a rich condition regardless of what the turbo is doing. so we reverted back to the original injectors and added a 5th on regulated pressure that comes in after 3psi. the original injectors do correct A/F ratios until 3psi. btw although stated that the engine can handle 18psi, it hasn't seen upwards of 10psi for the looooooongest while. imho, it should never see upwards of 15psi. stock management with a bit of MAF signal altering works just fine.

4) Cooling?- Custom Radiator installed

5) Oil?- Amzoil Racing 20w-50 full synthetic does the job just fine.

6) DYNO TUNING????- so how ever did racing and performance in trinidad survive before the existence of a dyno in trinidad?? not everthing comes down to the dyno figures.

NOTE:- Before ANY type of performance modifications are done to anything, these must first be considered:

1) of more priority than power goals is, How much $$ yuh have?

2) what is the purpose of the vehicle?

When we have confined ourselves to only 'off-the-shelf bolt-ons' and 'everything aftermarket' and brand-name parts, this is where we have lost the essence of performance/tuning and our individuality; this is why we hate Civics so much. Bolt-on mods is as easy as using a credit-card. I'd rather do custom modification any day, cause i like the idea of beating somethin that cost several times more and then sayin 'i built that sheit'!!
Money, or lack thereof was the major influencial factor when building the Sunny, but and the end of the day, a certain balance between Cost, streetability/Reliability, and performance was achieved. the best part is, this balance is enjoyed everyday, under A/C and Pwr/steering. what more could you want out of a 20 year old car that makes money for you?

[QG]

Nice going OldSkoolRule,.

Can you explain this 5th injector on rugulated pressure please. Very impressive man.

[QG]

QG18DE+T 171.5WHP.

[Alpha_2nr]

1) Reliability??- The car runs everyday, freeport to chaguaramas 2-3 days for the week, loaded with tools that sometimes include welding equip't. freeport to south for parts on average, every other day. and countless errand runs within the area.
Absolutely no reliability issues, and this b11 can be scanned. (it was wired by us, up to the A/C & P/S signals, etc are functional.

2)Turbo Sizing??- Yes, compressor AND turbine characteristics were considered but not crammed upon as if we had the $$ to order a custom turbo. This is Nissan country, where you can buy an SR20 turbo unit almost anywhere, the SR was used seeing that the turbine section was intended for a 2000cc engine to breathe thru, it spools a bit later (4400rpm) but maintains the fuel economy and driveability of the N/A engine throughout a useable rpm range when the car is driven on the road AMONGST traffic and 'normal' road users. the SR unit was perfect for the job mainly because of $$ and its characteristics.

3) Injector sizing??- tried OEM SR18 and SR20 injectors, suffered a rich condition regardless of what the turbo is doing. so we reverted back to the original injectors and added a 5th on regulated pressure that comes in after 3psi. the original injectors do correct A/F ratios until 3psi. btw although stated that the engine can handle 18psi, it hasn't seen upwards of 10psi for the looooooongest while. imho, it should never see upwards of 15psi. stock management with a bit of MAF signal altering works just fine.

4) Cooling?- Custom Radiator installed

5) Oil?- Amzoil Racing 20w-50 full synthetic does the job just fine.

6) DYNO TUNING????- so how ever did racing and performance in trinidad survive before the existence of a dyno in trinidad?? not everthing comes down to the dyno figures.

NOTE:- Before ANY type of performance modifications are done to anything, these must first be considered:

1) of more priority than power goals is, How much $$ yuh have?

2) what is the purpose of the vehicle?

When we have confined ourselves to only 'off-the-shelf bolt-ons' and 'everything aftermarket' and brand-name parts, this is where we have lost the essence of performance/tuning and our individuality; this is why we hate Civics so much. Bolt-on mods is as easy as using a credit-card. I'd rather do custom modification any day, cause i like the idea of beating somethin that cost several times more and then sayin 'i built that sheit'!!
Money, or lack thereof was the major influencial factor when building the Sunny, but and the end of the day, a certain balance between Cost, streetability/Reliability, and performance was achieved. the best part is, this balance is enjoyed everyday, under A/C and Pwr/steering. what more could you want out of a 20 year old car that makes money for you?

Now THIS is more of the response I was looking for.

In that case, good going....it looks like you've got your project well thought out, and hopefully, well executed.

And don't mistake me! I'm all for bolt on's (yes..I admit....I like brand name stuff in my car), but if a custom job is done well, and has everything in good balance, (and has been properly researched), I'm all for that as well. It's more gratifying to do that from scratch, if you think about it.

My question about the dyno was for HP only. My Suby was tuned.....TWICE.....on two different systems, without a dyno (as there was no 4WD dyno back when I did those mods), so obviously, I know what you mean.

[nioboi]

If the qg is so economically oriented why does it burn so much gas...

[turbonator]

^^^ x10

[OldSkoolRule]

well look at that! a QG engine turning out 171hP @ the wheels. bear in mind a stock GA70 Supra has 200hp imagine a Sunny or better yet, a March with a QG18DET!!
Esssaarrrr?? daiz someting to eat or wah?!!