WTK: Rear disk brake upgrade - Worthwhile investment?

[red bwoy]

/\/\/\ what you talking about dey is ebd(electronic brake force distribution) few cars have this and is more high end cars afaik

[teekshan]

WHat about boosters and master cylinder upgrades. Do you go with the old one and look for a double booster? What does that look like?

[red bwoy]

don't know much about double boosters i personally prefer upgrading to a larger application specific or brand specific booster and master cylinder also when converting to rear disc the proportioning valve needs to be changed also

[teekshan]

I was actually thinking when I get my a172 project back up and running, to do a booster upgrade to the most common high performance booster around. However the bolt spacing may be different so I may have to drill over new holes or the better thing may be to sandwich a plate in between the booster and the firewall to maintain the original firewall bolt up . The booster shaft may need an extention to accommodate the thickness of the plate. Can anyone else relate?

[larafan]

first step...get rid of dem wagner pads....

[centralized(m)]

well wen dey say double booster is not two but a more larger bosster than d original one and it creates more vaccum coming from d engine to thus create more pressure force for the brakes.....i think i have it right??? and well wen u get a new booster is better to get a new mastercylinder that may not have much wear and stuff.........

my 2cents

[Rush]

the boss u can just replace the stock booster and master cylinder with a bigger 1 and get better pads......i put in a double booster from ah next lancer in d libby and d brakes holding like if is ah evo with brembo and creamic pads oui....lol...!!! i fraid now to mash hard for d safety to the ppl behind me......u does kno wen ur brakes real good wen u can tell urself u gonna stop at a certain point in d road and u can even point at d spot too.....lol.....

x2

/\/\/\ what you talking about dey is ebd(electronic brake force distribution) few cars have this and is more high end cars afaik

thanks for saying this,
i always said that rear disc brakes dont add much stopping power,
rear disc brakes and drum brakes, wud both be calibrated with the same amt of force to teh rear wheels, (brake ratio-front-back)

just cuz sum cars have 4 wheel disc brakes doesnt mean theyll stop faster or better,
and the thing abt cooling i think deoends alot on the pads/shoes used,
some are made to be used at an optimal temperature, work best when used a certain amt, wont work best when cold, or when over used/excessive heat

but yes, the drum brakes wud hold more heat, but as i said, the shoes wud be made to compensate for this, material wise, in order to give the proper stopping force reqd

[TurboDrive]

i prefer smaller rotors, good pads and a large master cylinder..

the big problem with larger rotors is that it takes alot of energy to turn them, it adds extra weight to your rim / tyre package..

i saw a dyno test on an Acura RSX where the car lost 10 - 12hp from stock by adding a large Stop Tech brake system..

the car had lost some acceleration, but its lap times around a test track remained the same.. (it lost time on the straights but gained in the corners)

imo, to get the best of both worlds, stick with your smaller rotors (no loss in hp) and upgrade your lines, master cylinder, booster & pads..

True. It is more unsprung weight you're adding. But say what when you make your car slower you going to stop faster .

[TurboDrive]

at de same time....no need to overdo it wit michelins....remember generally:
less treadwear = harder tire = less grip = longer life
more treadwear = softer (stickier tire) = more grip = less life

if u don't hav $ to bun....u need to find a good compromise between grip and durability.....i went the dz101s....i jus put them on so i don't kno abt durability.....but i can say the grip doesn't satisfy me as i had federals before

fixed!

[red bwoy]

drive ah think when he say less treadwear he was talking about the number cause de higher the number on the treadwear markin means less tread wear driving

[TurboDrive]

OK Sorry Dude. My Bad

[3stagevtec]

from Wikipedia

Treadwear rating

The Treadwear Grade of a tire is the numeric portion of the Uniform Tire Quality Grade Standards (UTQG) that are printed on the sidewall of a tire. These standards were enacted by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which is part of the United States Department of Transportation. Higher treadwear numbers indicate that the tread of a tire, and hence the tire itself, should last longer, although this is more true within a single product line than when comparing the product lines of different manufacturers.

Treadwear Grade Number

The treadwear grade describes how long the tire manufacturer expects the tire to last. A Course Monitoring Tire (the standard tire that a test tire will be compared to) has a rating of "100". If a manufacturer assigns a treadwear rating of 200 to a new tire, they are indicating that they expect the new tire to have a useful lifespan that is 200% of the life of a Course Monitoring Tire.