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Car Polishing 101

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Chemical
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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Chemical » February 3rd, 2011, 11:26 am

:? Hoss me aint no stalker , when yuh had de AD in 2007
I just bought one when I returned from Canada on a permanent basis (cash) , thats how I remember :idea: Den yuh sell & say yuh had P11 M6...Den recently yuh talk bout Impreza & Swift....yuh even mentioned bout yuh could sit behind yuh fadda tiida comfy but Legacy yuh couldn't :|

So iz ah legacy or Impreza ?

Tort I'd explain :D

(Yuh mus be still have dat AD in de first place)
:|

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Alpha_2nr » February 3rd, 2011, 1:48 pm

^^Nah man....AD sold about 1 year after I bought it. The P11 wasn't an M6...just a base P11 with the neo Di engine and Hyper CVt (no tiptronic feature).


Sounds like you have a good memory though :lol:


Anyhoot...back to detailing.....Chemical and others, keep in mind that you have to care for your MF cloths and keep them clean, in order to have swirl free results.

Wash MF's with detergents that have NO bleach, and NO softeners. I'm using Pinnacle's MF rejuvenator for washing MF's.

Also, Griots has a one-step cleaner and sealant which I think may prove handy for folks looking for a good sealant, with filling properties.

Image


All the benefits of our ultra-durable Paint Sealant combined with a gentle polish to remove scratches, oxidation and swirl marks while leaving behind protection for your paint for up to one year. Think of it as Paint Sealant with Machine Polish 3 added for a true One-Step Sealant! The best way to apply it is with our Random Orbital and Orange Polish Pads. You'll achieve spectacular results, while you remove oxidation, scratches and swirls. Even when you use it by hand, the results are amazing. Color, depth and clarity plus long term protection in one easy step.



Griots also has a str8 sealant (no cleaners or included polishes), glazes for filling, and a lovely Best-of-Show Wax.

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Karim Khan » February 4th, 2011, 11:08 am

A very informative article about Microfiber Towels

Microfiber Towels — What You Should Know About Them

Microfiber towels have become increasingly popular among detailers and car wash operators. Few, however, understand the subtle differences that make some towels better than others.

Microfiber towels make a detailer/car washer’s job easier, faster, and more productive. Microfiber towels have many advantages over terry towels. They absorb seven times their weight in liquid, can be used repeatedly (up to 600 washings reported) without deterioration, and eliminate the need for cleaning chemicals in some instances.
Many use these imported towels, but few know anything about how the towel is made, or how to judge the quality. While there is no official grading system for microfiber towels, industry experts do grade microfiber towels based on composition, number of splits, and weight. If you understand how microfiber is made and works, it will help you understand that not all microfiber towels are the same.

SPLIT MICROFIBER

Microfiber is a continuous filament fiber, which is a combination of two fibers: polyester and polyamide (a nylon byproduct). The interlocking composition of the two fibers makes microfiber unique and excellent at picking up dirt. The polyester and polyamide fibers are woven together to form a pie-shaped pattern.

When the towel is used, the two fibers separate due to the differences in surface tension creating small sharp edges, gullies, and grooves that are ideal for cleaning, moisture capillary action, and retention of particles.

The hooks or scoops scrape up the dirt and store it in tiny channels, which is the reason you often do not need to use chemicals with microfiber towels.
Introduced in the late ‘80s, the one criterion used to judge microfiber towels was the ratio of polyester to polyamide. Recently, industry experts are not certain this ratio really has any impact on the microfiber towel.

80/20 vs. 70/30

Microfiber towels are typically a blend of 80 percent polyester and 20 percent polyamide or 70 percent polyester and 30 percent polyamide. Tests comparing the performance of 80/20 vs. 70/30 have resulted in neither standing out as a clear winner.

Initially it was believed that the 70/30 blend was superior and more absorbent than the 80/20 because it contained a higher amount of nylon. However, as the technology has advanced, the two blends have become nearly identical in their abilities. Today, most do not consider the 70/30 blend superior. They are so close to one another in cleaning and absorbing capabilities that it is very difficult to tell any difference between them, and there is no significant price difference.

The reason for the difference has to do with where the towels are produced. The 70/30 type is common to European manufacturers, while the 80/20 comes from Asian countries.

THE SPLIT

So if the ratio of polyester to poly-amide does not affect quality, what does? It is the amount of splits, or pie segments, per fiber.

There are two different types of microfiber: split and non-split. Non-split is used for furniture-upholstery material or shirts, but it does not have cleaning properties like split microfiber. The more splits it has, the more effective as a cleaning towel.

It is determined that the most effective microfiber towel on the market contains 16 segments per fiber. Microfiber containing fewer splits is also available to the detail and car wash industries at a lesser cost.

WEIGHT

The final criterion to use when judging microfiber towels is the weight of the cloth. All fibers are weighed in deniers, the weight in grams of a 9,000-meter-long strand of any fiber. An individual microfiber filament weighs less than one denier. As comparisons: microfiber filaments are half the diameter of a silk fiber, a third the diameter of a cotton fiber, and a quarter the diameter of wool.

Microfiber filaments are thinner than 1 percent of the thickness of a human hair, and can be densely woven together. Each cloth consists of approximately 200,000 microfiber filaments per square inch.

Weight is the best way to judge the quality of a microfiber towel. The fibers themselves are weighed in denier, but the towel as a whole is weigh-ed in grams per square meter. Good quality is about 200 grams per square meter; 250 to 280 is better quality; the best products are 400 grams per square meter or more.

Weight dictates how long it will take for the towel to show wear and tear. The heavier the weight, the more fiber it has. The more fiber it has, the longer it will last. All microfiber is basically the same. It becomes a question of economy and durability, or how many washings it is going to last. A heavier towel will last longer and survive more washings.

Although heavier microfiber is superior to lightweight, microfiber is still lighter than other woven cloths. Microfiber towels do not require the same pressure or force as a cotton towel, so there is a great reduction in the wear and tear on the towel.
Identifying the right microfiber for the job depends on more than just price. The number of splits, weight, and durability all play an important role in determining microfiber quality.

By Sharie Sipowicz

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Chemical » February 4th, 2011, 12:20 pm

Great read Karim, Thanx.

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Chemical » February 7th, 2011, 5:05 pm

^^Just bought this @ Automotive Art in El Secorro. I used to pay $45 bucks now its almost $80.00 :?

Thomas & Sons bought over the A/Art in T'dad # 623-4280 / 623-8268.

Alpha / Karim etc. they now carry every line of the Meguiars products. Serious their shelves were packed.

From clay bar kits to headlight restoration, Nxt Wash, Wax Sealant, Swirl X , Scratch X etc the list goes on & on....the COMPLETE line from meguiars including buffing pads, MF cloths down to applicator pads for inside detailing.

I'll go back following week to buy up my stuff.

Image

Image

They even had this for $92.00.

Image

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Alpha_2nr » February 7th, 2011, 8:18 pm

I've heard good things about the endurance tyre gel.......came across it at Stackhouse (just like you said).


I may buy it...but I'm sticking to Armorall for now :lol:

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Chemical » February 8th, 2011, 6:37 am

Believe me, no going back once you use this....it does what it states 'lasts weeks" & the gloss is exceptional. I also use it on the front / back bumpers base & on the side skirts as they are black plastic.

Just the products got very expensive now. Will buy the clay then Swirl X with tech wax & sealant @ end of Feb.

This may cost me approx $400 (or more) & :idea: I'll do it over Carnival W/E.

On the boxes states "now lasts even longer"...Improved formula. I'll still use those MF cloths from P/Smart :?

I'm going to do a complete detail myself including engine , wheel wells under using my pressure washer so it may take me approx 3 days.

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Karim Khan » February 8th, 2011, 8:55 am

^^^ the High Endurance is the best i have used so far,,, its really that good.

As for the Automotive art - i prefer the previous owners. Jeffery the past Managing Director was really a cool and a very down to earth person. the man had practical and theoretical knowledge of paint systems and body shop operations. We use to sit and discuss what Meguiars products use to work really well and what dont. He even took some of my recommendations on what product he should offer to the TnT market. e.g. the Headlight restoration kit, clay bar system etc.



The present owners of automotive art Thomas and Sons - i dont like their business model- with in a few months of taking over the business they raised the prices, customer service dropped and there is a limited product variety.

My main concern is the customer services. The casher there need to be removed ASAP, she has little or no product knowledge and gives customers an attitude like if she is the one who is doing you a favor..... Very Very Very disappointing customer service. I stop shopping there and have took my business else where or if i need Meguiars I ship it in. Its cheaper to ship in that than buy from the local dealers.

The product selection is very limited and they still carry the old product line...

The prices are very high. there are competitive products out there that are either better than or as good as for the price. And if you ship it in for yourself you may save a couple $$$.

My advice to the new owners are
1. reduce the price to remain more competitive.
2. Get a new casher and train all in house staff about product knowledge
3. Get rid of the old products on the shelf and get the new product line. there are some products there that are more than 5 years old...
4. Listen to your customers.

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Chemical » February 8th, 2011, 9:22 am

^^I hear U Karim, however they (as of Yesterday) were carrying all the new product lines. They even had the 3 clay bar kit for $196.00

http://detailclay.com/review-meguiars-s ... lay-kit-2/

Yes they are extremely expensive. But I went on Autogeek's website & the Meg tire gel is $8.00 US. For landed costs here X $10. So I guess its not that bad.

The cashier yesterday was nice to me but she's one hell of an Amazon woman :oops:

Why don't we email Barry Meguiar & let him know whats happening in Trinidad with the agent as he claims he reads ALL his emails on the Sunday morning show on Speed.

(Possible business venture between Yourself , Alpha & me)

Serious :|
Last edited by Chemical on February 8th, 2011, 10:22 am, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Alpha_2nr » February 8th, 2011, 9:51 am

^^I would, but if I had to do that (biz venture), it'd be with a more unusual brand. Megs makes good stuff....but there is better. That said, I'm a huge fan of their Ultimate Quik Detailer and S-Shine MF's.


by the way:

Swirl X with tech wax & sealant @ end of Feb.


Well.......

......normally, you use a Sealant OR a Wax.

If you wanna use both...you use Sealant first, THEN Top with Wax. Sealant needs to bond to a less oily surface......so putting a sealant on top of a wax means that it won't bond properly and it'll come right off at the next wash.

Also, it'd be good to at least wait a few hours between applying a sealant, and then applying a wax....to give the sealant some time to cure.

Now, if you're using Tech Wax, it's better NOT to use a sealant (before or after), since Tech Wax contains mild cleaners in it...so it'll remove any old wax remnants/sealants underneath.

I'd recommend (if you want to use tech wax) that you apply teh Tech Wax ONCE (after claying and polishing if need be), then maintain that finish with Ultimate Quik Wax IMMEDIATELY after every subsequent wash

(i.e. after every subsequent wash, spritz the car with UQuikWax as per the instructions). This will add durabilioty to your waxed finish and help it last longer.



And yes, apparently TechWax doesn't layer very well. A "pure" carnauba (which has NO cleaners) such as HD Wax, Mothers Stage 3, Griots BOSWax will layer much better.



The techwax 2.0 application on my car is going well, but durability is diminishing a little...not much....a little :lol: . I'm using Ult QDetailer to maintain the finish, not Quik Wax (mainly cuz I had the QDetailer already).

My only major gripe is that it doesn't leave the surface as "slick" as EGP or HD.

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Chemical » February 8th, 2011, 11:39 am

^^Actually looking @ Autogeek's website , Thomas & Sons prices not bad at all.

Tech Wax $131.10
http://www.autogeek.net/searchresult.ht ... s+tech+wax

Headlight restoration kit $163.30
http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-plasti ... t-kit.html

Maybe Meguiars prices went up ?

However T&S had almost ALL products.

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Dunman » February 11th, 2011, 11:29 am

Fellas,

Anyone here ever used those dusters like the California super duster.

Image

Image

I've read reviews from professional detailers who stated that they are excellent for light dust. I'm thinking you can just do a quick dust off as opposed to a spray detailer if you are pressed for time.

Looking forward to some feedback.

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Karim Khan » March 4th, 2011, 1:43 pm

My New toy the Flex Pe14-2-150 Rotary Polisher!!

Cant wait to fire up this puppy

Here is a little write up on it

The FLEX PE14-2-150 Rotary Polisher is built to minimize user fatigue with an ergonomic design and lightweight body. It weighs in at just 5.6 pounds! The front of the polisher is perfectly curved to fit the user's hand and coated in rubber for superior comfort. The spindle lock mechanism is located behind the hump you see above so you cannot accidentally press it. This is not the heavy, cumbersome polisher of the past. The FLEX PE14-2-150 Rotary Polisher is built to be light, agile, and fast - perfect for professional detailers who spend hours behind a buffer.

To make your polishing experience even more pleasant, the FLEX PE14-2-150 Rotary Polisher is quiet. A new combination of planetary and bevel gear provides extreme noise reduction. The gears are hardened stainless steel for excellent durability.


The new gears are quiet and ultra-durable!


Large vents and an internal fan provide superior air flow to keep the polisher cool.

A powerful internal fan provides optimized airflow to cool the engine and transmission to prevent heat buildup in the polisher. A cooler running polisher operates more efficiently and is easier to handle.

The FLEX PE14-2-150 Rotary Polisher is powerful! It has a 1400 watt motor with a no-load speed range of 600-2100 rpm. It's capable of high speed compounding, but it also works smoothly when polishing at low speeds. A convenient acceleration switch allows you to start slow and gradually increase speed. Lock the speed for continuous operation.

Like all FLEX polishers, the FLEX PE14-2-150 Rotary Polisher has some sophisticated electronics to help you get the best results. VR electronics include variable speed selection, consistent speed control by tachometer generator, overload protection, restart protection, and temperature monitoring.


The acceleration trigger, trigger lock, and speed dial are all within easy reach on the FLEX PE14-2-150 Polisher.

The FLEX PE14-2-150 Rotary Polisher was designed and built in Stuttgart, Germany, just a short distance from the Mercedes Benz plant. It's no wonder that FLEX consistently produces some of the finest car polishers on the market - they share a hometown with one of the world's finest automakers.

If you're new to polishing with a rotary or just looking for a more user-friendly machine, the FLEX PE14-2-150 Rotary Polisher is the perfect choice. Its lightweight, ergonomic design and cool-running, quiet motor will make polishing your vehicle almost as enjoyable as seeing the final results.
Attachments
FLEX0.jpg
FLEX0.jpg (24.44 KiB) Viewed 3986 times
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The BOX
flex2.JPG
Opening the Box
FLEX3.JPG
And i have number 145!!!

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Aaron 2NR » March 4th, 2011, 1:55 pm

^^ like u firing that up on tuesday :P

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Alpha_2nr » March 4th, 2011, 2:23 pm

Very nice!

Can't remember if I asked this, but how does one choose between a Dual Action and a Rotary?

I would like to learn to use one at one point (would probably by an old bonnet to practice on too :oops: )
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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Karim Khan » March 4th, 2011, 2:26 pm

Aaron 2NR wrote:^^ like u firing that up on tuesday :P



Yes i would !!!

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Parvin » March 5th, 2011, 5:20 pm

How much you pay for it ?

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Alpha_2nr » March 7th, 2011, 1:10 pm

Came across this vid - mighty fine info! Mike Phillips is regarded as a detailing guru on most US forums, especially MOL and AG.


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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Karim Khan » March 9th, 2011, 12:58 pm

^^^ Good find Alpha, i was actually going to post this vid up. But its great to know that you do your research!!!

Great find
and keep it up!!!

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Alpha_2nr » March 9th, 2011, 6:53 pm

^^No scene bro. BTW...I just collected a bottle of some P21S Total Auto Wash (will post pics in a bit). I figure it's gonna be a bit harsh, so my intent is to use it for fender well and engine spraying/cleaning.

When I get around to use it, I'll post some thoughts.

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Chemical » March 10th, 2011, 5:32 am

^^Just an update...after approx 3 mths the AG SRP does not bead anymore. Thought it would have lasted much longer as its parked in a covered area day & night so no elements of the weather.

Used T/wax wash every 2 wks on it.

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Alpha_2nr » March 10th, 2011, 8:50 am

Hey Karim, here are the pics as promised.

Image

Image

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Karim Khan » March 10th, 2011, 9:03 am

Hey Alpha,, Looks great!!! Cant wait to hear your reviews on this product. 8-)

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Chemical » March 11th, 2011, 1:19 pm

Very keen to hear your thoughts on that. BTW I got a Navara now & the oil field roads really licking up the sheit on it so i'm wondering what I can use on it....real oil sand, mud, tar, dirt etc ?

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Karim Khan » March 11th, 2011, 3:02 pm

^^^ Get the Navara under-washed.

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Chemical » March 12th, 2011, 8:46 pm

I was thinking more on a coating to protect the plastic wheel shield etc. Went online with no success.

No matter...doesn't belong to me anyway.

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Alpha_2nr » March 13th, 2011, 10:54 am

Karim, just finished using the p21S TAW - if you haven't bought this yet, get it - NOW.

It looks like it has a slight learning curve though, you have to know where, and where NOT to use it. But I figure you're gonna know most of that stuff already anyway 8)

Will be experimenting with some ONR and Chemical Guys stuff by next week if all goes well.

PMed you btw.

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby evolution7tt » March 13th, 2011, 6:37 pm

Chemical wrote:I was thinking more on a coating to protect the plastic wheel shield etc. Went online with no success.

No matter...doesn't belong to me anyway.



I was looking into this product. I don't know how good the company's products are. Maybe you guys would have a better idea.

Would anyone recommend this for post- engine cleaning?

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Alpha_2nr » March 15th, 2011, 12:05 pm

Came across this article on the MOL forums this morning:

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showth ... =Soft+Wash

The initial pics like this:

Image

AND

Image


....show the damage that can be done with an inexperienced hand, bad technique, and the wrong applicator pad/tools/products.

I myself suffered a similar fate some years ago, at the hands of a local "body shop" who claimed they could ""buff" my car (of course I didn't know better at the time).

Of course, these markings, called "holograms", are micro swirls inflicted in the thousands, and are only visible in direct sunlight from a select angles. So chances are, you may have your car buffed, and not know they're even there until the next day (or two), or after a few washes.

Sure the car that was the victim is now long gone, but it's that kinda experience which got me onto learning to DiY where I could, about detailing.

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Re: Car Polishing 101

Postby Karim Khan » March 15th, 2011, 2:12 pm

Alpha have no fair cause i am here.

I am proud to say that i presently have in my possession the latest SWIRL FREE PAINT CORRECTION SYSTEM from Meguiars. Its called The Meguiars Microfiber DA Paint Correction System

Meguiars Guarantees a swirl free finish. I cant wait to try this system out, hopefully this weekend!!!

Here is a pic
Attachments
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