Post your engine oil / grade / price / location

[EVA Unit-01]

^^^had never heard of the brand, so was kinda skeptical about it (never saw any ads)

i can't deny that the price is great! but i need good protection as my engines revs all the way up to 6000rpm pretty often with my driving

will look into it definitely, as the link posted before kinda turned me off from the Helix Ultra (even more than the $80/quart price tag)!

[CD4Accord]

Well, it is a very well known and respected brand in Europe and is the official oil of every french vehicle as far as I know...

I also like to think im not succeptible to advertising, but considering that they use it in Peugeot Le Mans cars, Red Bull + Renault F1, Citroen and Red Bull WRC, VW Dakar winning Toareg etc I think it has legit claims...
Why not give it a try and see what you think then? I assure you that I rev over 6000 just as much as you do and the oil really isn't a worry for me...
Its also reassuring that in the US it costs more than all the regular big brands (Mobil, Castrol, Pennzoil etc).. Therefore I KNOW its not a cheap brand, just the people in Charlieville who import it are much more honest with their pricing than the rest of bastards bringing oil to Trinidad

[EVA Unit-01]

^^^scene... well, like the thread name, rice & location of this Charlieville place?

[CD4Accord]

Did my post about that ages ago, but here it is again

Total Quartz 9000 5w-40
Mathura's Auto - St James, POS
Price $180 + VAT for a 4l bottle
4liters = 4.23qt's

[EVA Unit-01]

^thanks! gonna get mah research on, &hopefully decide by d time oil change rolls around... by chance they had d Quartz 10w50 Racing?

[CD4Accord]

No 10w-50 or the 15w-40 to my knowledge...

So far I think the importers just trying to get a foothold on all segments of the market.. they bringing the 5000 (mineral), 7000 (blend) and 9000 (syn) and also some diesel oils and fuel treatments etc
They also advertising hard and using all the aforementioned sponsorships to good benefit...

I assume eventually they will diversify the products imported..

[groundpilot]

how many of u hav to top up after the initial oil change?

when i used the castrol blended 5w-30 for about 7mths (2oil changes)
i had burn off and had to top up a little around 3000k's and around 5000k's

switched to shell synthec blend 10w-30
after the initial oil change no top up needed till next change

dude all syntec blends doesnt make sense

[oxidation]

tried amsoil fully synth in my qg15 10w-30 and man the engine immediately idled differently...smoother.. more quieter i think im saving a few dollars on gas tooo

had been running royal purple for abt a year and half but the royal purple IDK gives the engine a bit more power..............

[CD4Accord]

Honestly, if the Royal Purple gave the engine any more power you wouldnt be able to perceive it without doing a massive amount of dynoing before and after..

The minute difference that an oil can make to power will never be felt unless you were running a high performance vehicle and blatantly using the wrong grade (eg. 20w-50 in a Ferrari F430 Scuderia)

Concerning quietness, certain oils have been known to reduce lifter tick in certain engines so that is possible...
What grade RP were you running?

[3stagevtec]

I've actually noticed that the RP 15-40 is burning off slightly in my engine.. Will have to confirm though but I did notice my oil level at the 1/2 mark (reach 3000kms after last change) and I fill right up when I do my change..

On the other hand, I used to get a timing chain rattle during cold start and that has completely gone now that I switched to RP.. If the burn off continues, i'll switch to Amsoil as I read that resists burn off better..

[EVA Unit-01]

saw Mobil 1 0W50, got me interested... anyone has any firsthand experience with it?

[Big Z]

If experiencing oil consumption, change your PCV valve. These tend to stick after a while and cause the oil to be pushed into the intake manifold. Also, the usual applies with respect to vehicle servicing. Decarbonize every 30k to 40k km and use a good fuel cleaner. Of course, I am biased towards Redline SI-1. Im not just a retailer, Im a user. LOL.

0W50... lol... the larger the visousity difference in the oil, the more friction modifiers added.
Seeing that friction modifiers break down and not the actual oil, do you really think this makes sense?
Again, with our temperature range... 0W is totally unnecessary.
In another post in an oil thread, I showed that the difference between Royal Purple 5W40 and 15W40 was negligible at 40*C. Do you think 0W will be any different?

Again, why use an oil that will break down easier, and was most likely not recommended from your vehicle manufacturer?

[Dave]

I am interested to know all you guys who use a "fully synthetic" oil, what duration of km's you run before changing? If extended, at what point if u do, change the filter?

[Alpha_2nr]

In the car that uses fully synth (F/I) I continue to stick to the OE manf'rs recommendation (3000 miles / 5000 km under severe service). Filter (OE) is changed then as well.

The car that uses dino oil, I stick once again to the manf'r's recommendation (3750 miles severe service) and change with an OE filter then as well.

[Dave]

You are changing dino at 3750 miles and synthetic at 3000 miles?
Typo you made?

[Chemical]

I use Mobil 1 10W 30 in my 2 cars with OE filter. That being said, I am of the opinion that small dirt particles enter the combustion chamber via the air intake & circulate in the oil together with acid forming in the oil from unburnt fuel, water & oxygenation.

I drain @ 7k KM most times, however I don't exceed 5 mos if the mileage didn't attain.

I stick with old school theory...more frequent u drain the better it is.

[EVA Unit-01]

Seeing that friction modifiers break down and not the actual oil, do you really think this makes sense?
Again, with our temperature range... 0W is totally unnecessary.
In another post in an oil thread, I showed that the difference between Royal Purple 5W40 and 15W40 was negligible at 40*C. Do you think 0W will be any different?

Again, why use an oil that will break down easier, and was most likely not recommended from your vehicle manufacturer?

1. i guess it doesn't make sense, don't really care for Mobil 1 oil neway
2. i kno 0W is unnecessary, but may have it's benefits
3. while the diff is neglible, there still is a diff...
4. my manual recommends oil ratings based on the climate of (vehicle) operation; specifically states 5W40 as applicable for all temps

I am interested to know all you guys who use a "fully synthetic" oil, what duration of km's you run before changing? If extended, at what point if u do, change the filter?

i change my full synth every 10,000km using one (1) OEM oil filter per change

[oxidation]

Honestly, if the Royal Purple gave the engine any more power you wouldnt be able to perceive it without doing a massive amount of dynoing before and after..

The minute difference that an oil can make to power will never be felt unless you were running a high performance vehicle and blatantly using the wrong grade (eg. 20w-50 in a Ferrari F430 Scuderia)

Concerning quietness, certain oils have been known to reduce lifter tick in certain engines so that is possible...
What grade RP were you running?

rp 10w-30

and abt the power ting the car jus seemed to accelerate better

[Big Z]

Dave, in the absence of UOA, I recommend:

1. Oil changes at twice the OEM change interval.
2. Oil filter changes at the OEM change interval. Regardless of brand/model. This also has the added advantage of introducing a couple ounces of fresh oil on top up, essentially giving a boost to the existing oil.

FYI, Amsoil recently removed their EA oil filter (for Toyota applications) from sales due to it causing low oil pressure after extended change intervals.

[Alpha_2nr]

You are changing dino at 3750 miles and synthetic at 3000 miles?
Typo you made?

No.

One car is turbocharged (turbo is oil cooled...hence the synth oil), and the other is not

[CD4Accord]

I do roughly 5000-6000km with my full synth... Normally ends up being changes every 4 months or so but sometimes stretched to 5 or 6 in extreme cases where I do very little running

Actually tend to do something like 5000 on my other oils as well (blends or mineral) just because I know the car i'm running the synth on has to work a lot harder (accord)

Purolator Pureone (gold) filters alone for me

[turbo_beast369]

what about Eneos 5w-40...does anyone know of someone who tried it as yet?

[zondafan]

currently using castrol gtx 20w50

think i bout to try the total 5000 20w50

[chris1388]

Eneos 5W-40
Fine Tuned Performance Santa Rosa (Garth) - $70 a quart

ey ey! a ENEOS man!!! tell we how it werks...

also, Big Z, u doh hav Royal Purple in 5w40???

well i am no expert in this area so i'll just tell you what i've noticed. Prior to using the eneos 5-40 i was using amsoil 10-40. With the eneos the car runs quiter, i know this because i know my car very well it also runs cooler on my temperature guage dan on the amsoil and after 3 months the level wud have dropped slightly with the amsoil, so far with the eneos its rite up to the mark and i drive the car quite hard regularly. The temperature also stays much lower when driving the car hard for prolonged periods.
One other ting i noticed which i dont really know how to explain is with the amsoil my exhaust tip used to get a little black every so often but since i've changed to the eneos its staying clean since....i dont even know if that has anything to do with the oil....but nothing else has changed and i've never seen it stay clean this long

[EVA Unit-01]

^^^thanks 4 d info! will consider it against d RP 4 my next oil change (which is soon)...

[EVA Unit-01]

UPDATE: so i just came back from the dealer, where i changed my oil from the Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 full synth (which i've been using since i bought the car - 25 months) to Royal Purple 15W40 full synth
N.B. for this comparison, ONLY the brand/body of the oil was changed while everything else remained constant (gas type, oil filter type, etc) to compare the effects of the oil on driving

there was an immediate reduction in engine noise, which i was told about (by a friend) but didn't really believe until i witnessed it myself. the engine is almost silent at a parked idle, and is now like (educated guess) 40% quieter while running (hard).

traffic and low brake pads kept me from pushing a bit, but what little i managed showed no perceivable difference from 5W. will observe over time as the engine gets conditioned to the RP...

[novastar1]

UPDATE: so i just came back from the dealer, where i changed my oil from the Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 full synth (which i've been using since i bought the car - 25 months) to Royal Purple 15W40 full synth
N.B. for this comparison, ONLY the brand/body of the oil was changed while everything else remained constant (gas type, oil filter type, etc) to compare the effects of the oil on driving

there was an immediate reduction in engine noise, which i was told about (by a friend) but didn't really believe until i witnessed it myself. the engine is almost silent at a parked idle, and is now like (educated guess) 40% quieter while running (hard).

traffic and low brake pads kept me from pushing a bit, but what little i managed showed no perceivable difference from 5W. will observe over time as the engine gets conditioned to the RP...

Hmmm
I telling you about this months now Mr Eneos
and it doesn't say this onan amsoil site either
Their ridiculous claims on the bottle are true
Now you have to rice out your exhaust to get back the noise
Still no progress on the door.
going to locksmiths on Mon

[Conrad]

Change my oil every 3 months or 5,000 km, which ever comes first. Stock RB25DET, never opened.

Originally used Mobil1 10w30 (regular grey cap, $65 per quart), had no problems. Found my engine ran a little on the loud side (RB25 hydraulic lifters I thought) and decided to try what the Evo boys always raved about. Never had problems with oil burning off, health ring FTW. Bumper used to always get dirty, normal thing with RB's on stock tune as they run rich.

Changed to Amsoil 10w40 (premium protection? with more zinc additive, $280 per gallon) and noticed the pungent smell right away.
Was surprised at how thin the oil seemed, almost like slow flowing water. Even had problems checking oil level after the oil change as by the time I was finished the lighting was poor and I couldn't see where the oil residue was on the stick. Reduction in noise initially, noticed the ticking came back later on but not as loud.

I've always had a pretty hot engine bay, haven't noticed any change in temps.

[turbo_beast369]

I goin and try d Eneos 15w-40 next oil change yes...i go let allyuh know how it feel...dem Japanese wouldn't put no crappy oil in dey engine in d first place...

[EVA Unit-01]

^^^fuh tru... lettuce kno how it runs