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Warm up method

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thegtiman
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Postby thegtiman » April 1st, 2007, 10:24 am

cinco wrote:ent
if you livin up here yuh coolant doh warm up until you drive almost a mile on some mornings especially when its nice an 0 degrees c


Yes then you just take you time until your temp gauge comes out of the "C" area this is about 70degC or 50degC oil but at least you are making progress. With the thermostat shut the coolant passages get to high pressure and temp very quickly prompting the stat to open to allow more circulation, thus more cooling abilty, to the the rad. The temperature this happens at varies. Manufactuers will not calibrate the temperature clocks to read "safe" if the oil is not warmed up. Some cars do not even have a oil gauge. I mentioned the oil gauge comment to show the relationship beteewn oil temp and coolant. Oil temp normally lags coolant temp on warm-up cycle.

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Anil_Sooknanan
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Postby Anil_Sooknanan » April 1st, 2007, 10:50 am

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ way you learn that one from???? :roll: :roll: :roll: i would like to see the writer of that book and shoot him :fist: oh and people it's called multi grade oil oh and meh boy when you start the car the toque convertor pushes the oil through the whole tranny so i never hear about that

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Postby Anil_Sooknanan » April 1st, 2007, 10:59 am

Remember that when your engine is cold, your oil does not lubricate the engine internals nearly as well as when it is hot.

so even when your coolant gauge reaches normal operating temp, your oil still has a way to go before it reaches optimum operating temperature.


where you get that info?? :?: :?:

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Postby SPEC_C » April 1st, 2007, 2:12 pm

I duz warm my car every single mornin for bout 5 mins...no a/c,radio on
cuz u have to allow d oil to start to flow through d engine internals etc...if u start to drive one time nuttin lubricatin u internals an metal rubbin against metal eatin up u engine....an when u do satrt to drive doh exceed 3000rpm 4 d first 5 mins...after dat floor d x an open up d turbo...daz my 2 cents.....bless

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Postby ZanRx8 » April 1st, 2007, 2:23 pm

Why are you guys making such a big fuss over something that is so simple

If you have a new car, there is no need to sit for minutes and have it warm up, the electronic in your car controls your engine settings to eliminate this need.

If you had an old car, hence carb for example you needed to warm it up back in the day...

simple as that......

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Postby 3stagevtec » April 1st, 2007, 3:57 pm

Anil_Sooknanan wrote:
Remember that when your engine is cold, your oil does not lubricate the engine internals nearly as well as when it is hot.

so even when your coolant gauge reaches normal operating temp, your oil still has a way to go before it reaches optimum operating temperature.


where you get that info?? :?: :?:


oil that is cold is more viscous than oil that is hot. therefore, hot oil will lubricate the engine internals quicker and more effectively.

the second part is a known fact. those with cars that have both coolant and oil temperature gauges can verify this.. (my car only has the coolant temp gauge :( )

now, what i've have said originally applys to newer fuel injected cars only. for older cars, it's a different story

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Postby Dragsta » April 1st, 2007, 11:01 pm

Why are you guys making such a big fuss over something that is so simple

If you have a new car, there is no need to sit for minutes and have it warm up, the electronic in your car controls your engine settings to eliminate this need.

If you had an old car, hence carb for example you needed to warm it up back in the day...

simple as that......

Back to top

iz simple as dat...no need to wait soo long to warm up.

in the newer cars, there is the "Automatic choke" that allows More gas to Idle up the engine for a few mins until the engine is warm...once the Temp Gauge is above the C mark, u could start to drive(NORMALLY) like 25-3000rpm and ting, and it will warm up to normal after that while driving..

in the older cars, there is no electronics, so u have to pull the manual choke...this is for the carb to allow more gas for Cold Starting and for the engine to heat up.

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Postby Anil_Sooknanan » April 1st, 2007, 11:56 pm

oil that is cold is more viscous than oil that is hot. therefore, hot oil will lubricate the engine internals quicker and more effectively.

:lol: :lol:

no boy for eg castrol 20w-50 SAE oil hear what i'm not going to play mr know it all so to keep thing on the good side do a research what it means ok seems you don't understand what it means arite

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Postby 3stagevtec » April 2nd, 2007, 7:41 am

Anil_Sooknanan wrote:
oil that is cold is more viscous than oil that is hot. therefore, hot oil will lubricate the engine internals quicker and more effectively.

:lol: :lol:

no boy for eg castrol 20w-50 SAE oil hear what i'm not going to play mr know it all so to keep thing on the good side do a research what it means ok seems you don't understand what it means arite


if i'm wrong, i'd like to know...

so what your saying is that temperature does not affect oil viscousity... if so can you prove your point?

because for colder climates, oil tends to get very viscous at very low temperatures...

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Postby thegtiman » April 2nd, 2007, 7:58 am

3stagevtec wrote:
Anil_Sooknanan wrote: :lol: :lol:

no boy for eg castrol 20w-50 SAE oil hear what i'm not going to play mr know it all so to keep thing on the good side do a research what it means ok seems you don't understand what it means arite


if i'm wrong, i'd like to know...

so what your saying is that temperature does not affect oil viscousity... if so can you prove your point?

because for colder climates, oil tends to get very viscous at very low temperatures...


Perhaps you have to ask him if he knows what is the meaning of viscous or if he ever drained oil at 4degC.

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Postby Scoop » April 2nd, 2007, 1:41 pm

i usually wait for the rpm to drop to a bit before i pull off

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Postby Dragsta » April 2nd, 2007, 3:05 pm

^^thats all, the autochoke does take care of the heat up

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Postby ZanRx8 » April 2nd, 2007, 4:46 pm

thegtiman wrote:
3stagevtec wrote:
Anil_Sooknanan wrote: :lol: :lol:

no boy for eg castrol 20w-50 SAE oil hear what i'm not going to play mr know it all so to keep thing on the good side do a research what it means ok seems you don't understand what it means arite


if i'm wrong, i'd like to know...

so what your saying is that temperature does not affect oil viscousity... if so can you prove your point?

because for colder climates, oil tends to get very viscous at very low temperatures...


Perhaps you have to ask him if he knows what is the meaning of viscous or if he ever drained oil at 4degC.



Motor oil comes in many different weights and viscosity grades. The motor oil weight or viscosity grade, such as 10W-40, specifies the oil's thickness, or viscosity. Viscosity is basically a measurement of resistance to flow. The higher the number, the thicker the motor oil. Thicker more viscous oil tends to protect against wear better, but it can also steal horse power and gas mileage from your engine because it's harder to pump and has more drag on engine parts. Thin oil flows easier, which results in better gas mileage.

The most popular motor oil weights and viscosity grades are covered below:

SAE 5W-30
Climate Conditions: Performs well in sub-zero temperatures

A relatively thin motor oil that provides excellent fuel economy and low temperature performance. Used primarily in newer model automobiles. Recommended for new vehicles.

SAE 10W-30
Climate Conditions: Performs well in temperatures above zero degrees F

A slightly thicker version of 5W-30 motor oil. Frequently recommended for most automobile engines, including high-performance multi-valve and turbo-charged engines.

SAE 10W-40
Climate Conditions: Performs well in temperatures above zero degrees F

A thicker oil that provides excellent viscosity. Works well for controlling engine wear and preventing oil breakdown from oxidation. This heavier weight oil performs better in hotter climates. Typically recommended in vehicles and trucks with larger engines. Possibly a little too thick for wintertime in some cold climates.

SAE 20W-50
Climate Conditions: Performs well in temperatures above 20 degrees F

Maximum protection for high-performance, high-RPM engines because of its high viscosity. An excellent oil for hot climates and towing at high speeds for long periods of time.

This should shine some light on the issue
personally I use 5W 20 and change it every 3000 miles

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Postby awesomeandre » April 2nd, 2007, 7:10 pm

i use 20w - 50

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3stagevtec
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Postby 3stagevtec » April 2nd, 2007, 7:16 pm

ZanRx8, nice info...

I use the OEM 10W-30. works good for me

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Postby Anil_Sooknanan » April 3rd, 2007, 2:21 am

^^^^^^^ ah boy like yuh learn something day doh worry everyone don't think the same we all have diffrent some maybe correct some maybe wrong thats why we're all here to do LEARN from one another

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Anil_Sooknanan
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Postby Anil_Sooknanan » April 3rd, 2007, 2:28 am

well it seems i'm maybe the youngest here and understands the meaning of viscosity better than you all :lol: :lol: :lol: except for you ZanRx8 any way bless !!!!

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3stagevtec
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Postby 3stagevtec » April 4th, 2007, 10:17 pm

^ :shock: ... :?:

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Postby eitech » April 5th, 2007, 5:04 am

Never shift from the Parking mode when engine rpm is higher than normal idle...i read that somewhere recently

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cinco
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Postby cinco » April 5th, 2007, 4:33 pm

allyuh still talkin dis
if u didnt realise although the oil is a lower viscosity cold say 5/20 you still need to wait for the engine oil pump to pump sufficient oil into the head and combustion chambers to lubricate the running parts you may not need to wait 5 or 10 mins for this but as a safe rule at least wait until the rpm drops from the cold idle speed.

also shifting from P to D while the car is idling high is just as if you rev the car and do the shift it puts more stress on the tranny specifically the torque converter as the tranny now tries to match to engine speed to pull off if you have ever done it you can feel it doesnt feel right.
even when warming your car most 2nrs get in tune to the engine sound and can tell when it sounds ok to pull off

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Postby SPEED THRILLZ » April 8th, 2007, 9:48 am

hmmmmmm go on howstuffworks and look at the explanation they have for the thermostat in a car and that ppl will answer ALL your question on engine warm up. And why it is important

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3stagevtec
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Postby 3stagevtec » April 8th, 2007, 10:31 am


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*Phoenix*
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Postby *Phoenix* » April 8th, 2007, 6:53 pm

1. Switch on ignition.
2. Wait for all sensors to register a signal.
3. Start.
4. Wait for oil light to come off.
5. Drive, but take it easy till engine reaches operation temperature.
6. feel free to press it after that.
:twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

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