W.T.K After buyin a roro whats the first ting to do to it

[Dion76]

yea ppl after buying a roro almera whats the first ting that should be done to it??? body and engine wise

[wagonrunner]

check / change all fluids.
check change all filters
check tire alignment.
check brake pads
drive for approx 300-500k as is, to see if there are any other issues with car.

[Dion76]

ohk when replacing engine oil whats the best type of oil besides NP LOL that can be used

[wagonrunner]

dont knock the Np brother,
that NP Ultra 20w50 works wonders. we've been using that in cars since before 97.
and our engines were always clean, and never failed.

[Dion76]

ohk thanks for the advise a mechanic told me that the np builds up some kinda ting in the engine and dirty it up very quicky he probably said that to make money off ah me anyways what else should be done

[Dion76]

and is 17'' a good size rim for a manual almera

[wagonrunner]

i think 17's to be too big for these cars..................but that is a personal opinion.
i drive hard on any kind of road, so prefer lots of rubber between road and rim. also weight / impact on suspension parts are an issue with me.

waiting for certain foum members to share their knowledge.

[Dion76]

ohk so whats better 15'' 16'' or the 17''

[wagonrunner]

my opinion, i would go with 15", 205/50/15 or 195/60/15.
the 195 is the more common, but i prefer 205 width.

[Rush]

i think 17's to be too big for these cars..................but that is a personal opinion.
i drive hard on any kind of road, so prefer lots of rubber between road and rim. also weight / impact on suspension parts are an issue with me.

waiting for certain foum members to share their knowledge.

i concur...i prefer more rubber than going into a pothole and damaging tire and rim...
its safer and more reliable according to me

[equipped2ripp]

doh forget to bless de car

[Dion76]

yea well i plan to do that before i even touch/open anything

[lizzy]

check / change all fluids.
check change all filters
check tire alignment.
check brake pads
drive for approx 300-500k as is, to see if there are any other issues with car.

Shouldn't this be done with the help of a trusted mechanic before you test drive and purchase the car?

[wagonrunner]

^^^
before YOU.............TEST DRIVE, or PURCHASE a car, YOU will change the fluids on ot, and check the alignment, etc?

[lizzy]

I won't change oil and filters, but I will definitely have the braking system not just the pads or shoes.

When I was going to buy my first car a Plymouth Reliant, we had braking problems while the mechanic was test driving it. The pads were good but the secondary piston in the master cylinder had a leak.

[wagonrunner]

excellent, you're talking picking a car.

i think he's past that stage, and now looking at how to start maintaining the car he has bought.

[Dion76]

yup

[lizzy]

I always get a oil change after 3000 miles using the Manufacturer's recommended lubricants At 6000 miles a tune up, tire rotation, brakes and alignment check, and at 10000 miles I have transmission serviced. It's what I would recommend.

[Mr. Red Sleeper]

I always get a oil change after 3000 miles using the Manufacturer's recommended lubricants At 6000 miles a tune up, tire rotation, brakes and alignment check, and at 10000 miles I have transmission serviced. It's what I would recommend.

*****Voices in head.....voices in head...********


Good info, so that everyone knwos that im On Topic.....

[Rush]

and make sure that the radio is programmed properly...
priorities people

[Dion76]

lol^^ i think there may be more important things than the radio

[Rory Phoulorie]

check / change all fluids.
check change all filters
check tire alignment.
check brake pads
drive for approx 300-500k as is, to see if there are any other issues with car.

I would start from clean slate. In addition to the above, I would:

1) Change all the drive belts (timing belt, a/c, alternator and p/s)
2) Change the timing belt tensioner
3) Change the spark plugs and spark plug wires
4) Check and service a/c
5) Check over undercarriage and re-torque suspension

I am not a Nissan person, so it may be possible that not all of the above may be applicable.

With respect to the fluids (engine oil, gearbox oil, power steering, brake and clutch), I would flush out the old and fill up with new fluids.

[Dion76]

ohk and u mentiones re-tourque the suspension what is that??^^

[Rory Phoulorie]

ohk and u mentiones re-tourque the suspension what is that??^^

Basically, check over the suspension and tighten what is slack. Certain suspension items need to be tightened to a certain amount and this is measured using a torque wrench. You don't just tighten until "it cyah go no more". Usually the service manual (not the owner's manual) will have the torque settings for the suspension.

[cheese pie]

here is uncle cheese's advice to do in this order (its lil expensive eah )

1 (a) change oil and filter , use a good oil like castrol GTX if you going mineral or castrol syntec or mobil 1 if you going syntec , remember the syntec should last twice as long rather than the mineral ( max 350 dollars)

1 (b) change the spark plugs ( make sure and get the right type) fuel filter !!!!! (very important) and air filter , check coolant levels and top off with distilled water if needed. check power steering fluid also. (aroudn 400 dollars depending on where you buy parts)

*dont forget to throw a bottle of redline fuel injector cleaner into the tank* ( about 60 dollars)

2 change transmission fluid , do this by a reputable transmission person such as chaguanas auto supplies , it might take 10 quarts since they use a few to flush the system , i dunno what fluid nissan recomends , if is cvt then MAKE SURE U USE NISSAN CVT FLUID (around 550 dollars)

3 pass by the nearst piper run gas station and get a complete underbody wash , no shock oil eah (because of what i say in section 4 the shock oil might affect it) and let them greese up any zerk fittings (nipples ) you may have under the car (about 100 dollars) DO NOT LET THEM WASH YOUR ENGINE DONT EVEN RAISE YOUR BONNETT

4 go by a suspension guy , big place ,like master serve or laughlin and de gannes and get a complete suspension check and an alignment. the shock oil might make things ah lil slippery to grab and try and move things like control arms for the fella checking your suspension (cost 300 dollars max) if you dont have to change any thing like bushings , while the guy is under there let him take of your front tyres and check yoru brake pads , tell him to adjust your hand brake cable if you find you hvae to pull it up to hard and tell him to check the conditon of the shoes , he will have to pull the drum

5 buy a large tin of WD 40 and lock your wheel to either side and give the bushings and other stuff under the car ah good spray ( 20 dollars)

6 fill up the tank and take a note of the mileage, drive normally and keep a mental check of how you drive that week (fast , ac on always , crawling in traffic) fill up again and see how much KM to how much money , calcualte the MPG
once ever month or 6 weeks or so check this again , and keep doing that

if you notice sudden changes in your mileage it might be the early warning signs of a more serious problem or that you just forgot to get a tune up lol

Document the mileage and when you change things , and when is your next change at how much milage

my 2 milliamps

[SmokeyGTi]

wagonrunner giving some good advice there. pretty much said everything there is to say.

[moti]

good advice cheese

[bleedingfreak]

An important consideration - IMO - is the mileage that the car is doing when you got it. I would not change out drive belts, spark plugs, etc on a low mileage vehicle.

All I did was change out my fluids, BTW... (3 yrs ago...)

Let your mechanic do a proper inspection of the vehicle. From there you'll probably get an idea of what needs to be done, or preventative maintenance.

[crazybalhead]

I won't change oil and filters, but I will definitely have the braking system not just the pads or shoes.

When I was going to buy my first car a Plymouth Reliant, we had braking problems while the mechanic was test driving it. The pads were good but the secondary piston in the master cylinder had a leak.

You mad, CHANGE THE DAMN OIL.

[Empress]

lol^^ i think there may be more important things than the radio

you might be surprised how irritant static on a radio can become..