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yeah guys are there any problems that can occur with doing a cvt to manual swap. If yes, can you please put your experience. I am asking because my finacial support (my father) is a little skeptical about it cause he thinks that if anything goes wrong he doesnt want to spend more money than needed cause the car is working fine as is.

Please silvermike i am not as honda or mechanically inclined as you so be lenient please.

you shouldnt see any problems once you have all the parts needed. There are a couple threads on this topic that you can read and get a very good idea of exactly what youll need to get it working the 1st time.

ok thanks smurf it is a direct swap

I trying to organize the same thing wid my car.

cvt-manual make sure u get the ecu otherwise if i remember correctly
1- ur engine check light wud come on and stay on cant rem why
2- no vtec (if u have)

do you also have to weigh and align after you put in the box cause my partner now doing his (general) And that box like 3 times lighter.

damn....dat means the car will get higher infront too

2NR Smurf wrote:damn....dat means the car will get higher infront too

Anybody got this problem to when they did the conversion?

turbochinee wrote:do you also have to weigh and align after you put in the box cause my partner now doing his (general) And that box like 3 times lighter.

REALLY ?!?!?

U may have integra spring rates up front then ! Car will not sit as low... haha... I wanna see a before and after pic !

^it happened to wagonrunner. different car yes. but hey if it could happen to him.....

Ah wasn't denying it...

When a partner and I swapped a sohc engine into a previously dohc powered integra, the front end lifted about 1.5 inches (stock springs)... plus when u swap in H22's into civics... the civic springs compress alot !

Just didn't know the CVT was so heavy !

vtec wont open which i facing now.. n looking way to solve..
try other way where have no need to change the ecu.
good luck

mine went through more or less smoothly,

note: mine is a LEV 1.5 non-vtec with CVT tranny.

mounting brackets for mine was wrong so i had to replace. the bracket that connects under the box was found in the bamboo. the one to the back and the top had to be made. (that was the most time consuming)

i used my original ECU and they bridged something or the other... i can always check it to tell yah. the car wont start if you leave the ecu as is. initially we did an all the lights on the dash were just blinking. it looked cool but.........

as for the weight, it is a lighter when i drive so you gotta look out for that. the axles i had worked, but make sure they fit it in good. i had some issues there with it making noise and stuff and they had to pull it down and put it back in. OH, make sure you change those seals, the engine and the box. i didnt change mine, (dont ask why) so they had to pull it down.

there is a little piece of metal where the selector cable is in the console. you'll see it when you get there. that has to be knocked out (at least i had to knock out mine, it a little tough to do and just be careful)

i think that's about it really, and please note, (you dont have to drill anything (except for statement above) or make any new hole ). everything was made already. as of now, the car works nice still. ps: should have changed that engine though, hehe but i aint have money for all that......

i do the swap with my car CVT to Manual. Once yuh have the manual ecu. No probs. although i run mine for about a year with the auto ecu. vtec come in but a big difference when yuh have the manual ecu. oh yeah the right side mount might need some modifications.

what engine do u have turbochinee?...i know some engines such as the D16y5 that were equipped with vtec-E instead of normal vtec...these usually work on 12 valve mode until about 3000 rpm (vtec point) where normal mode engages...Getting a manual ecu for that engine will cause some loss in power since the vtec point for the manual ecu is set to 5000 rpm...so u'll be working on 12 valve mode until u reach 5000 rpm

well 've got the d15b with the 3 stage vtec and i now found out that the guy that i am going to do the swap with has the non vtec engine. Is it possible to do the swap and use my original brain? or is it easy to get a manual brain since it looks like everybody is upgrading to b16's. Where are all the extra d series parts?

^wiat nah...who you doing de swap wid?

2NR Smurf wrote:^wiat nah...who you doing de swap wid?

You tell me who you doing yours with first and when i pay down on mine i will tell you after

^lol. i doh tink i swappin anymore.

whats the reason for not wanting to swap again?

the only thing that is really post poning my swap is that the fella is still deciding on if to go with the cvt. He thinks that the cvt gives plenty trouble, which i will like to differ but this is just my experience with mine. I never got any trouble. I just have to change oil and drive.

2NR Smurf wrote:^lol. i doh tink i swappin anymore.

you do realise, this means war.

^:| whaaa? im no match fuh you.....your swap give you so much power yuh front end hoppin when you change gears

2NR Smurf wrote:^:| whaaa? im no match fuh you.....your swap give you so much power yuh front end hoppin when you change gears

steups. i sure d green jersey wars was faster than 18.4. even at dex u riding on teins

^18.431 wid a .8 R/T eh....

2NR Smurf wrote:^18.431 wid a .8 R/T eh....

so organise d box and come school meh

I did the swap! doh worry bout the brain jus take the solonoids off the tranny and use the same jack as before. U might have 2 make a braket or find a place to bolt it on. weight aint no problem either spring compression won't differ by much.

every ting would work fine wit d right parts
but should be better off to sell d car an buy a stick