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OK. So i get an offer to buy a hydro 5fwd box fuh meh hatchee. BUT its just the box, and only the box. Besides pedals, shift linkage and clutch cylinder, what else would be the MUST HAVE parts? Please feel free to state the obvious aswell. I've been told different things when it comes to axels and ECU. would i be able to re-use these parts or am i gonna have to source a manual D15 ECU and axels.

You will need:

Axles
Ecu
Clutch master cylinder
Clutch Slave cylinder
Clutch Hard Lines
Pedals
Linkage
Hubs should be the same tho...
Modification to engine mounts (EK)
Possibly a gauge cluster if you want.


Hasn't this been covered b4 ? I thought it would be stickied...

Whats different with the axles?

And i was told fuel maps in the ECUs are the same.

No input from anyone else? that list of parts real discouraging me from goin box.

fella, if u want to chook gears, and it in your budget, do not stick.

^yuh mind if ask yuh how much your conversion cost? and more importantly, what was the downtime an any unexpected issues that came up during the swap. PM.

not at all pallie, dont mind you good buse me in dis same forum.

ok, the used setup that i bought included.

shifter
shifter knob.
shifter linkage.
shifter boot
gearbox & starter w/ bolts (different length to tranny)
rear engine mount
clucth pedal & cable
manual axles
pressure plate w/ clutch & flywheel
total $700 (steal of a deal, real value approx $1600)

i also had to get
g/b mount & bracket
smaller brake pedal
manual engine shield
total $400

was done at rons over two days (fantastic)
issues, really left some grease stains on meh seats, and rest of car
would start working on car at 2pm (to let me know what they didnt have, if i didnt get before 5pm that evening, car done wuk on for d day, thankfully i was lucky)
misplaced a special blade i kept in the car
labor ($600)

realignemt, cleaning up, replacing blade with one similar
$350

so my total was $2050.
minor suspension adjustemnt has to be done as g/b is 10kg lighter than tranny (front raised 1.5"+)

i would tell you budget a $3,000 and 4 days. it migh go a lil over / under. but that should be a safe ballpark.

^you really get a steal of a deal on dat conversion dere....right now it lookin as though ill have to source alotta parts individually. and patience is not one of my virtues

actually, there are soem foreign used yards who sell the conversion, as in all parts required. have you asked any of them, on the price for a full conversion kit?

hahahahaha pays to have a sheit car yes. when i did my conversion on my PAX 323 it only cost me $1500 (parts and labour) and the mech had my car done in a 2 days and that is only cause i drop my car by him in the evening

^well den i shuddnt have to worry much either

jeff, sheit car or old car? those cars (PAY 323GLX's) were sold new in the early 90's yet i saw them as used in a canadian mag since 84 . old thing always more available.

Smurf... if you have ALL the parts, the changeover can be done within 2 days easily.

it's knowing what are "All the parts" that causing some delay. last night i learnt meh bloody springs different, thats what i need to locate now to regain meh ride feel.

again i say dont waste time on money on this and go for the b16a conversion and done instead

Went to price a conversion in the bamboo for the B16A engine total cost for box and accessories cost $5000.00 and this was a normal box not LSD to pricey for me

SR,
whats the ceiling price / timeframe of a D15B auto to B16A manual conversion?

From a DIY perspective...

Auto to Manual changeover - 2 days
SOHC to DOHC swap - 2 or 3 days


Just remember, at a shop, you need to factor in that the car may not be attended to first thing. I'd reckon at least 1.5 wks before the car comes back out of a shop.

engine box ecu axles engine mounts harness linkages pedals shifter etc

probably looking at around 14,000 plus say 3 full days to do the conversion
plus i would also do the 100,000 service on the engine while its on the ground and install new clutch pressure plate pilot bearing and release bearing

cheaper option would be to get your hands on an ek sir front cut complete
guaranteed to get everything you would need including the manual gauge cluster from the dash
this way there is no time wsted running around looking for the right parts
and you will also get the sir calipers and brake assembly to upgarde the front brakes one time and all the hyrdaulic lines etc for the clutch

nobody said it was going to be cheap but yuh guaranteed this way to have everything looking origianl with everything done properly
should be around 20k or less

^^ werd

hadda love honda tuners.......budget never seems to be a concern.

budget is always a concern but yuh hadda face reality

when ah man tell yuh it only cost 10,000 yuh hadda sk yuhself what about the quality of the job is the vehicle safe lots of people do conversion sbut never tell u exaclty how much they really spend and some doh even know what the total cost was they was just spending and when tings eh work out they hustling here and there to lok for a part cuz d one they get cyar work or worse yet yuh go hear the comment "we go make it wuk" and brackets etc get modified to fit

how afe is that vehicle after the conversion
does it have all the right parts

and dont say honda men eh

ask anyone who has done an sr20 install what the real total cost was

ah bet it not under 10,000
and ah bet it didnt take 2 days

SR,
i agree with you on d saftey aspects. (case in point, me and meh fodder mokcin springs) which i still looking for.

the budget part came in the comparison between from D15B auto - D15B g/b compared to going to B16A g/g. almost $15k difference.

ronsin1 wrote:Went to price a conversion in the bamboo for the B16A engine total cost for box and accessories cost $5000.00 and this was a normal box not LSD to pricey for me

dat hadda be from de old model B16A (OBD0)

Since we discussin' price here, what was the smallest price ya'll ever pay for a swap, conversion or replacement.

I'll start:
I paid juat about $2100. (final price) to swap a D series Block and replace the Pulley over two years ago.
$500. for complete block.
$400. for a used Crank pulley
$90 for new crank pulley bolt
$40 for new crank pulley key
$??? for Head gasket
$??? for intake manifold gasket
$??? for fresh oil and filter
$75 for a valve (one got damaged when I rest down the head bad)
$90 to re-seat the same valve
$20 for dizzy o-ring
$250 to rent the hoist and put back the engine (BEST PRICE FOR THAT)
$??? for some random sh*t I really cyah remember

I did all the other work myself i.e. engine removal and assembly, Timing belt installation, tappent adjustment (twice), cleaning of parts etc.
All because one fireball mechanic use an impact gun to tighten the crank pulley bolt. That is besides the point anyway.

I had budget for $1,000 maximum. Small parts kill mih, and I know I get robbed with the Pulley.

What is allyuh experience?

Yeah... props to Cleriq... cuz when he did that swap... he wasn't a big shade tree mech or nuffin !!!


DIY is the way to do it on the cheep, but if ur not mechanically inclined... you could f**k up something BAD !

Buy or download a Helms manual or equivalent and save urself some real headaches !

ey X2. yuh coming doubles tomorow??? ahh still looking for de valve locks

With carefull planning, I believe Smurf an get that conversion for $3500-$4000,
if some 2NRs help him out. And in a 2 day maximum.

I'll try to comprise a complete list of necessary parts, and possible snags.
If ya'll could just pitch in allyuh experience in this field, that will help.

As a matter of fact, if yuh not doin it, link me with the gearbox.

Smurf, sell your hatch and buy a SiR manual hatch. it will be easier in the long run.

And probably cost cheaper too. Or buy an EG B16 hatch and yuh good to go.

hmm
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