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Good day fellow tuners well here's what, I'm getting a great deal on a K20A from the RD5 CRV with the AWD transmission and I'd like to know if it can work in my 96' EK3 (will not be using the RWD of-course) and what sorta mods this conversion may incur... any info/advice provided will be greatly appreciated.

Inside for info.

Those k20a selling for real small money

yes it can fit,
things needed: Motor Mounts, Engine Harness, ECU/Computer, ECU Harness, shifter box, shifter cables, Ktuned shifter plate, transmission of course, clutch kit, hydraulic clutch line with slave cylinder, Radiator hoses, manual starter.
Things need to be done: relocation of Radiator, cut the floor board for the shifter box and use the Ktuned Plate. new wiring of the harness to ur cluster for the water temp guage and u will need to get a converter box to wire into ur harness for ur speed cluster to read the correct MPH, and more hope this help u out.....

Not worth the cost. Just get a B18CR. Reason:
1) its gona cost just the same as the b18cr to put the k20 for only 160 hp
2) the b18cr makes 200hp.

K20a selling for 2500 for a head and block btw

the torque on any b18 series is nothing like the k20 series, it may be different in whp but the torque is by far more superior, it also depends what u reall looking to do with ur setup....the reliability in the k series world is more reliable and less issues to deal with, the cost maybe more in the beggining but the long run far more cheaper....

NY4PD wrote:the torque on any b18 series is nothing like the k20 series, it may be different in whp but the torque is by far more superior, it also depends what u reall looking to do with ur setup....the reliability in the k series world is more reliable and less issues to deal with, the cost maybe more in the beggining but the long run far more cheaper....

Maybe due to the age of the K's, but B series engines are extremely reliable age for age.


The overall cost to do a clean K swap versus a B swap would have the B win out... torque be damned. K20a with box over here is not such a great deal. Complete ITR engine swap is still cheaper than a non type R K series. If we could get a K for 2500usd, then the story might be different !

Thx fellarz... info very helpful.

PsychoticCrazy4Car wrote:Thx fellarz... info very helpful.

you welcome, if u in need of any help in future plz knock on my door.....

Those CRV K20a engines are cheap allot cheaper than B series, saw one complete engine and tranny for 6K ,
it only has 160hp but the torque is 165 lb-ft pretty good power/torque ratio IMO
where as the B18C has 197hp but 133 lb-ft of torque

The K20a might be more expensive to build but the end figures won't disappoint...thats if you plan on buying the engine to mod the bejesus out of it, for a daily driver "its ok" like driving a lighter CRV..lol.

the CRV k20a, a good engine to turbo the K24 even better.....

dont forget crv carries a electronic Steering rack , u have to get your pump to work back on the k20 somehow , other wise is pressure pulling that steering

Just need a pump from a k series and high pressure line from a dc5 or k20 stream or Odessy I have a similar k swap with kpro in my es5 it kicks ass, comparable to a b18 type r but a good workin one will leave me by 2cars in a 1/4 mile run the torque feels better and top end is incredible reaches 240k's easy at 180k ur in mid 4th gear

With the traffic situation in our country as it is, an engine with torque is more beneficial than WHP. How often do you get open highway to get the revs up ?
Just see how those turbo diesels could break a line of traffic and join the other. No big WHP, but torque is necessary for that.
If I had the choice, driveability would win, instead of having to dip into the gearbox.
I would choose the K20a.
Peace.
RR.

ramishrrr wrote:With the traffic situation in our country as it is, an engine with torque is more beneficial than WHP. How often do you get open highway to get the revs up ?
Just see how those turbo diesels could break a line of traffic and join the other. No big WHP, but torque is necessary for that.
If I had the choice, driveability would win, instead of having to dip into the gearbox.
I would choose the K20a.
Peace.
RR.

Agreed with this guy...

where can i get the K20 engine to buy?

Looking for a head & block for the RD5