trinituner.com

We all have probably made some decisions with our cars that we end up regretting, here are some of my bad calls:

Energy suspension motor inserts
2.5" Exhaust
Energy suspension Rear Trailing arm bushing

SAFC.
No name camber kits

I thought energy suspension bushings was good stuff

2.5 exhaust was going to do it then the exhaust guy and paul talk me out of it ........ heard on some N/A engines lose power than gain when u make the pipes bigger

JDM_GUY wrote:No name camber kits

are good jus use the frame and buy skunk 2 ball joints

wishmaster wrote:I thought energy suspension bushings was good stuff

They are good for the most part... but the engine mounts will shake your fillings loose

The trailing arm bushing is too stiff, Honda specially designed to stock bushing to give toe under braking, helping the car to rotate, the ES bushing doesn't allow for this (plus it rides HARD)

If yours needs replacing consider these:

Mugen
OEM
Whiteline
Superpro

Those seem to do the job

D.. look like you were bored today

I agree with you on the parts....
Energy suspension motor inserts - i still bursted OEM mounts waste Hasport FTW.. will make your teeth fall out
2.5" Exhaust 60mm is for less than 200whp
Energy suspension Rear Trailing arm bushing ---- has its good and bad



STI - S2 ball joints are the worse .. SPC camber kit FTW

Moses.. u just doh listen.. told u from day one save and just buy a Hondata S300

ACT 6puk Copper Ceramic clutch,.......its not as bad as people say but, its definitely a bad choice when you still have to break in you engine and have to drive at low RPM's

STi7, I cuda tell u dat abt d exhaust, lucky u didn't learn the hard way.
Red, so the Hasport not 2 harsh then? I never had issues with ES motor mount inserts tho.
As for mine: 2.5" crush bent exhaust on a relatively stock D15B
& Ghetto turbo kit

Zim wrote:As for mine: 2.5" crush bent exhaust on a relatively stock D15B

i hav 2 1/4 orn my hatch with crush bends woking sweet u need a lil restriction to get torque , in the system the crush bends provide this ...

ah bro take a ride with me , he swear it was a b16 ...... and paul aint put in all d parts yet

Yeah 2.25" is perfect, even for B series. I get u with the crush bends, once it eh too restrictive. However, a proper system is WAY better. I can tell u this from personal experience on different systems (not tryna dis u)

Hmm, up 2 now u cya check me

Hasport along with others have mounts for different applications
Full race ,street etc

Yeah I know just was wondering how "streetable" the street version is. I know the quality is top notch though.

Question to Zim and Sti7, would you make or lose power with an open header?

^ if no changes ... Open header FTW
check me when u done...

DC 4-2-1 ceramic coated header (2" collector) going to my 60mm (2.36") APEXi WS2 exhaust system.
Admittedly the header was used and cost me about $100 usd or so including shipping, but still.
It sitting down in a box in my garage collecting rust

Having 2" sort of defeated the purpose of the exhaust. Eventually had to cut and modify another header to match the resonator/test pipe and exhaust..

hatch is best wrote:Question to Zim and Sti7, would you make or lose power with an open header?

i assume u mite lose power because in a N/A system u need a lil restriction to gain torque ... and larger the pipe the slower the exhaust gases exit ...... but u have a mandrel bend exhaust u had for sale how was the performance b4 and after install , also what set up u had b4 ?

Another mod i heard is a waste is a lighten fly wheel , if u dyno b4 and after with the lighten flywheel compared to the stock , it shows you build rpm faster but yet less power with d lighten flywheel and with stock u build power but at slower rate of rpm increasing and in n/a
LFW - $2000+
stock flywheel - already installed
savings - $2000

so i would prefer to build more power than rpm

bigger brakes : dc2 and CTR brakes are waste of time if your car is stock b16a with small mods due to the weight of these brakes a lot and u jus adding more weight to your thus your car has to produce more power to compensate for the weight gain ,
DC2 - $2800 + install $1000 + pads $500 = $4300 you spent to add more weight to your car
CTR - $5000 + install $1000 +pads $500 + 5 hole rims and tires -$5000 =$ 11 500 you spent to add more weight to your car and to show off i hav the real CTR look

Short RAM intake is a waste , a lot of folks take out ther stock air box to replace it with a Aluminum pipe mated on a cone filter , all this does is sucks hot air from the radiator fan , and u ever touch the pipe after the cone filter on a normal cool day or lets say a nice cool night about 10 pm the pipe is at least 55* C and up thus hot air passing tru a hot chamber .....


use your stock air box replace the filter with a K&N drop in , at the bottom of the air box has a place wher u can insert a 3 '' elbow insert the elbow clamp it down with a hose clamp and face the elbow away from the hot air from the radiator fan and like magic u have a CAI made of plastic not metal and u will feel the difference compared to a short ram

SRI - $1000 + depends on the brand
K&N drop in filter - $450
Savings $550 you can buy some pink wheel nuts to RICE out the car

Whale Penis intake another waste : u have a larger open area wher the air is sucked in again we come back to the principle of larger the diameter of the intake size slower the air passes tru and in the intake u want a faster flow of air into the system and then again u suckin in HOT air from the engine bay .

Slotted and drilled Brembo / any other brand rotors these wher made for hi speed vehicles doin 220 + mph and turbo applications doing 300 hp + why would you spend all that money on a rotor that would not giv you any real results besides '' ey look i have brembo slotted rotors on a civic , dan than real sweet i goin an buy a set to dan u real JDM bro '' reason i say this your stock application can do the same job jus upgrade your pads , becuz isn't your stock rotors vented ? and will be cooled the same way ? think about and im sure u going to save alot $$$$ to upgrade something that's worth up grading

Brembo / any other brand F&R replacement + pads -$4500 +
Stock application + good pads - > $1000

Saving $3500


these are some of the mistakes N/A owners do and waste $$$ i know some of you guys will not agree but try it go orn the dyno b4 and after the mods and see the difference

Always remember when buying Mods is a CIVIC not a skyline or evo expensive big brakes , intakes and other expensive mods not going to make u pass a evo / skyline so use your experience and buy smart

there are arguements for and against lightened flywheels ..and from personal exp ..no power loss or gain on the dyno.very easy to drive (fidanza 7.6lbs flywheel)..your revs drop faster but you get up to your powerband faster as well.if you shift like a granny its definitely a con if not youll love it .

that and innovative mounts are prob in the top ten mods ive made.

Energy suspension full conversion, the ride is so stiff and difficult on the back roads my wife refuses to drive it.

fass4drs wrote:if you shift like a granny its definitely a con if not youll love it ..

always heard alot of different meanings to this "granny shifting explain your meaning''

sti7 wrote:

fass4drs wrote:if you shift like a granny its definitely a con if not youll love it ..

always heard alot of different meanings to this "granny shifting explain your meaning''

slow-ish shifting..with the lightened flywheel, the revs drop noticeably quicker when you change gear, so if you shift slower, you can even fall out of vtec if granny shifting etc (personal experience)

sti7 wrote:

fass4drs wrote:if you shift like a granny its definitely a con if not youll love it ..

always heard alot of different meanings to this "granny shifting explain your meaning''

shifting slowly..dont know what else someone could use this term for..reixman put it well.

hmmmmmmmm...... sounds legit ....

wishmaster wrote:I thought energy suspension bushings was good stuff

I have energy trailing arm bushings installed and hac no problems. Matter of fact I have the hyperflex to install on the upper n lower control arms.

Greedy ultimate, I should have gone full management

Aftermarket short shifter - worst 'upgrade' ever.


...aside form the horrible engagement feel... I was driving down the highway with a fine chick in the passenger seat, when I go to downshift while taking the exit ramp and my shift knob quietly and cleanly detaches from the short shifter and I'm left holding a shift knob with the threaded top portion still screwed into the knob.

^That's embarrassing. What brand was it tho?

Halfbreed07 wrote:Energy suspension full conversion, the ride is so stiff and difficult on the back roads my wife refuses to drive it.

You think that bad... I have a full ES kit, stiffer MOOG progressive rate springs, Eibach Sportline dampers with 45 series tyres. Suspension is so stiff but solid and car corners flat ... almost no lean. A guy came to look at it and was considering buying it. when he said it was for his wife I told him forget it.... she gonna hate how this thing rides.

It's fantastic on the smooth parts of the hiway and newly paved roads .. will hold the road like it's on rails but it becomes unsettled on rough roads and the harshness gets tiring cause you have to scan the road surface and pick your way through

^Damn that sucks much, I might go with the kit but just for the front. Is the ride really that horrible?

ek4ever wrote:

Halfbreed07 wrote:Energy suspension full conversion, the ride is so stiff and difficult on the back roads my wife refuses to drive it.

You think that bad... I have a full ES kit, stiffer MOOG progressive rate springs, Eibach Sportline dampers with 45 series tyres. Suspension is so stiff but solid and car corners flat ... almost no lean. A guy came to look at it and was considering buying it. when he said it was for his wife I told him forget it.... she gonna hate how this thing rides.

It's fantastic on the smooth parts of the hiway and newly paved roads .. will hold the road like it's on rails but it becomes unsettled on rough roads and the harshness gets tiring cause you have to scan the road surface and pick your way through

Have to agree, did the same on my EJ-1 only Eibach Pro-Dampers and I thank God its not my daily, great for the odd run on Lady Young or Maracas but not for Trini roads, I live in humpsville and its the worst, sent the daily to service and used it on the lovely highway surfaces we now have, lets just say never had such an awful time driving that car.

^ the Eibach Pro-Dampers what is the spring rates and can u adjust the damper on the shocks???