trinituner.com

ok i bought some mintex brake pads about 3 months ago .......about 1 month later i started getting a squeaking noise. i rebrushed the caliper and the noise still there.

my mechanic told me its the brake pads so i thought i would just ignore the squeaking but over the last 2 weeks its been getting louder and louder and it only stops when i tip or mash the brakes.

should i change the pads? maybe they causing damage?

i use to ge that with project mu pads i jus use to pressure wash the brakes caliper an the pads every 2 weeks and the moise use to stop ...........

lol i really dont hav the time to pressure wash every 2 weeks

Use degrease and wash away with a hose.

take down everything and lube it back up properly

well actually when i changed it all the pins and everything was greased up good

ppl just say that it has real dust ....personally i find that its real dust dere thats makin that noise

had similar prob, scrap out everything and lubricate, should help

got another problem now.....i changed the pads and how i dont seem to hav as much grip as before

was this due to faulty installation?

i did pump the brakes after installation and while driving i found that the pedal was a bit soft and not much brakes was being applied

so i take it the "squeaking" stopped?

some of the reasons for brakes being "soft" and not responsive are..
1. air in your brake lines..ur mech bled your brakes by chance?
2. master cylinder seal may need changing
3. if u have rubber brake lines they could be soft, cracked or worn out.
ummmmm i know it have a good few other reasons, cant rem right now.
btw when last you change brakes fluid?

then again i take it the brakes were holding good even though u were getting the noise and when u did the pad change this problem suddenly arose?

a lil tangential.. but in case u plan to go this way.
i nvr get noise. always use original or high perf aftermarket. brands: honda, hawk, ebc. price: 500 to 900.

i changed the pads monday as soon as they installed them and i pumped the brakes i found that it wasnt getiin hard enough

and yes the squeakin noise stopped.

Points to keep in mind:

1) You need to 'break in' new brake pads and/or rotors
2) Bleeding the brake lines are very important after a pad change
3) Sometimes you also need to bench bleed the master cylinder as air can get trapped there too.

TK! wrote:a lil tangential.. but in case u plan to go this way.
i nvr get noise. always use original or high perf aftermarket. brands: honda, hawk, ebc. price: 500 to 900.

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=353524

Piad $690 for dem.....

Wow... 690 is aprox 2 times the price I been able to get them for in the states.. Good luck getting a sale....

brought it thru skybox, so shipping,custom & vat contributed to almost double the price............

CD4Accord wrote:Wow... 690 is aprox 2 times the price I been able to get them for in the states.. Good luck getting a sale....

nah.. 690 is about right if u skybox.

TECH N FIZ wrote:

TK! wrote:a lil tangential.. but in case u plan to go this way.
i nvr get noise. always use original or high perf aftermarket. brands: honda, hawk, ebc. price: 500 to 900.

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=353524

Piad $690 for dem.....

i run integra dc2 rotors and calipers .. so only these will work:
Hawk HP Plus# HB242N.661
Hawk HPS# HB242F.661

or
EBC Yellow Stuff DP4719/2R
EBC Red Stuff DP3719/2C

thanks for the heads up tho.
EBC green stuff doesn't last long enuff.

http://www.dcperformance.co.uk/cheap/116198/honda/ebc-green-stuff-front-brake-pads/dp2891.html

already bougt the Green stuff.........working good so far

i used to get a similar problem. i cant remember the brand i used, but the design of the braking surface was flat, some pads have a bevel at the ends of the surface, it varies according to the brand... what my mechanic did was take a grinder and grind the ends at an angle, and the noise stopped, just offering my $0.02, dunno if your pads have the bevel design or not...

X2 wrote:Points to keep in mind:

1) You need to 'break in' new brake pads and/or rotors
2) Bleeding the brake lines are very important after a pad change
3) Sometimes you also need to bench bleed the master cylinder as air can get trapped there too.

x2