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Hey guys, my EK3 civic radiator just eh seem to be taking de pressha...

How much for a replacement stock radiator?

How much for one of those wicked cool all aluminum radiators?

Check ADHA_303, he imports KOYO rads and the prices are great, it's cheaper than the OEM...

well i went with the brass one even though people said that the aluminum was better but i find it is working great thus far and i paid 800 for it, don't know if thats a good price.

i got mine made at Caribbean Radiators.

brass? that not heavier than the aluminum?

well i would guess so but it was the cheaper way out.
I not sure how heavier it is but i doubt you will notice

Well...Brass is an alloy off copper,copper is a better conducter of heat than aluminum, but it should be significantly heavier... I'm thinking the fins are still probably aluminum though.

the reason why the OEM rad is made of Al and not some other metal is to prevent electrolysis. Best bet is to go with the Al radiator.

electrolysis? wha that?

take 2 dis-similar metals, immerse them in a water based liquid, and pass an electric currnent thru it and see what happens

ok maybe i just real slow today or dont know much but where is the electricity coming from inside the radiator and can you just tell us what will happen since you well know that none of us are going to do your test.

Because i am thinking that long ago cars use to use brass rads and the only disadvantages of brass, i know of, is that it can rust but you can use coolant to prevent that (i think) and it supposedly doesn't cool as fast as aluminum

remember that a DC current is flowing thru your engine and the coolant as well, your coolant is electrically charged while the engine is running and part of the composition of the coolant is water, which is a conductor of electricity. the copper in the brass is reactive and so is the aluminium in the head, it's not a question of corrosion but the removal of material over time.

OEM coolants are engineered to prevent electrolysis between the cast iron block and the aluminum head (this is the primary reason why OEM manufacturers have a recommneded coolant mixture) the coolant not only cools the engine but managed to keep the potential diff at an acceptable level to prevent the removal of metal from one and the deposition of metal on the other. When you bring another metal into the equation that potential diff no longer applies.

see if this article helps any http://www.radiatorreporter.com/electrol.html

oh ok that makes sense but this is over a very long time though you are speaking about?

Dem radiator prices hot down here boy... I might just ship down one and done yes

turbochinee wrote:oh ok that makes sense but this is over a very long time though you are speaking about?

not necessairly, if you saw in the article, there are things that can increase the potential diff between the metals, bad grounds, ph imbalanced water etc. so it can happen very quickly if the conditions are right. I would rather spend the money than damage the cooling system components

Spyrogyra wrote:

turbochinee wrote:oh ok that makes sense but this is over a very long time though you are speaking about?

not necessairly, if you saw in the article, there are things that can increase the potential diff between the metals, bad grounds, ph imbalanced water etc. so it can happen very quickly if the conditions are right. I would rather spend the money than damage the cooling system components

Stop frightening de man nah... he radiator wukkin good

Plus... using honda coolant should reduce the risk of this significantly, which I do and reccomend that everyone with a honda does as well

okay so like the man said using a honda coolant in a brass, metal or aluminum radiator is the best way to go right? The reason I am asking this is i am thinking of shipping down an aluminum rad and from what i have seen for myself some coolants can damage the core on them so the coolant you use is very important.
Thanks for the info.