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There are two kinds:*KRONIK* wrote:Fellaz, where sells soldering flux?
And whats the avg price?
*KRONIK* wrote:Fellaz, where sells soldering flux?
And whats the avg price?
pugboy wrote:what you soldering ?
electronics or aluminium/copper appliance type ?*KRONIK* wrote:Fellaz, where sells soldering flux?
And whats the avg price?
adnj wrote:If your solder blobs, it's almost always because the metal is dirty from oxidization. There's lots of info online but using a brass brush on both the terminal and block until bright followed by a light melt of rosin-core solder to tin the surfaces separately is what I usually do.
When you join the metals, the fluid solder will wet the tinned surfaces much more thoroughly.
It's also a very good practice to tin stripped wire before termination crimp and then soldering that crimp. It prevents corrosion in the crimp.
It's more work but may be worth the trouble for some. It's a part of the NATO specification on wire harness construction.
*KRONIK* wrote:Yea
Basically this is what was happening.
I aint no pro at soldering, so its a learning experience for me.
I realized that the oxidation was causing the rejection of the solder, but i had no choice as it was the vehicles original bulb harness which was cut to attach a plug-in type terminal (waterproof)
So, i just wanated to have the flux to help with the soldering.adnj wrote:If your solder blobs, it's almost always because the metal is dirty from oxidization. There's lots of info online but using a brass brush on both the terminal and block until bright followed by a light melt of rosin-core solder to tin the surfaces separately is what I usually do.
When you join the metals, the fluid solder will wet the tinned surfaces much more thoroughly.
It's also a very good practice to tin stripped wire before termination crimp and then soldering that crimp. It prevents corrosion in the crimp.
It's more work but may be worth the trouble for some. It's a part of the NATO specification on wire harness construction.
adnj wrote:*KRONIK* wrote:Yea
Basically this is what was happening.
I aint no pro at soldering, so its a learning experience for me.
I realized that the oxidation was causing the rejection of the solder, but i had no choice as it was the vehicles original bulb harness which was cut to attach a plug-in type terminal (waterproof)
So, i just wanated to have the flux to help with the soldering.adnj wrote:If your solder blobs, it's almost always because the metal is dirty from oxidization. There's lots of info online but using a brass brush on both the terminal and block until bright followed by a light melt of rosin-core solder to tin the surfaces separately is what I usually do.
When you join the metals, the fluid solder will wet the tinned surfaces much more thoroughly.
It's also a very good practice to tin stripped wire before termination crimp and then soldering that crimp. It prevents corrosion in the crimp.
It's more work but may be worth the trouble for some. It's a part of the NATO specification on wire harness construction.
Soldering takes practice. There should be some videos on how to do it correctly... the hardest part is keeping the soldering iron tip clean and from getting too hot by wiping it on a damp cloth or sponge. Too much heat creates oxides, too.
Hope it works out.
adnj wrote:*KRONIK* wrote:Yea
Basically this is what was happening.
I aint no pro at soldering, so its a learning experience for me.
I realized that the oxidation was causing the rejection of the solder, but i had no choice as it was the vehicles original bulb harness which was cut to attach a plug-in type terminal (waterproof)
So, i just wanated to have the flux to help with the soldering.adnj wrote:If your solder blobs, it's almost always because the metal is dirty from oxidization. There's lots of info online but using a brass brush on both the terminal and block until bright followed by a light melt of rosin-core solder to tin the surfaces separately is what I usually do.
When you join the metals, the fluid solder will wet the tinned surfaces much more thoroughly.
It's also a very good practice to tin stripped wire before termination crimp and then soldering that crimp. It prevents corrosion in the crimp.
It's more work but may be worth the trouble for some. It's a part of the NATO specification on wire harness construction.
Soldering takes practice. There should be some videos on how to do it correctly... the hardest part is keeping the soldering iron tip clean and from getting too hot by wiping it on a damp cloth or sponge. Too much heat creates oxides, too.
Hope it works out.
pugboy wrote:once upon a time I used to mod playstations as a side hustle
some of those old ones required soldering direct to the chip legs, real tiny and big risk of sticking to multiple legs
grnrstbn wrote:Sorry this is not strictly speaking a tool query but I am looking for a Thermal Fuse (to be used in an Air Fryer)
172C cutoff, 110 V like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K38Z8JR/?c ... _lig_dp_it
Who would carry something like this?
hindian wrote:I usually use muriatic acid to clean oxidized copper wire before I solder and it usually works for me just have to be aware of the fumes. Have a damp cloth to clean the solder tip as well. You can check Shams for the flux though.
NR8 wrote:Guys I've put my Karcher K5 premium pressure washer up for sale. Check it out here http://www.trinituner.com/v4/forums/vie ... 1&t=759750
Rovin wrote:not advertising free for anybody but look yet another chinese tool brand on d local market .... EMTOP
https://www.facebook.com/brydenshardwar ... 325895035/
pugboy wrote:Will get back to yougrnrstbn wrote:Sorry this is not strictly speaking a tool query but I am looking for a Thermal Fuse (to be used in an Air Fryer)
172C cutoff, 110 V like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K38Z8JR/?c ... _lig_dp_it
Who would carry something like this?
grnrstbn wrote:pugboy wrote:Will get back to yougrnrstbn wrote:Sorry this is not strictly speaking a tool query but I am looking for a Thermal Fuse (to be used in an Air Fryer)
172C cutoff, 110 V like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K38Z8JR/?c ... _lig_dp_it
Who would carry something like this?
I called a couple of places but no luck so I ordered from amazon.
Still, let me know if you know anyone, I am all for supporting local.
pugboy wrote:i have, sent you a pm back then
Cooper wrote:Try Montrose Electronics. I got a replacement thermal fuse for a Nuwave oven there.
Ted_v2 wrote:looking for cheap chopsaw, might be used once a month or something.
any recommendations? or anyone used those total branded chopsaws?
what about a 7" chopsaw?
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