where sells castrol magnatec for $178

screwbash · Postby **screwbash** » May 16th, 2019, 4:17 pm

where sells castrol magnatec for $178. places i check is almost $300.

Postby **Duane 3NE 2NR** » May 16th, 2019, 4:53 pm

in Central: S Khan's Auto, King Sultan, Longdenville Auto Supplies, Avin's Auto

where are you located?

screwbash · Postby **screwbash** » May 17th, 2019, 4:54 am

i work in san juan and i normally buy by otorama or dollazsaverz and ah gallon ah magnatech, oil filter and air filter both fram come up to $450 or so. so i shocked to see the oil msrp is $178. dem robbin people so dry one time.

viedcht · Postby **viedcht** » May 17th, 2019, 5:50 pm

not castrol, but i saw Allied in south have Kendell 20w50 for 179.00

MG Man · Postby **MG Man** » May 20th, 2019, 3:22 pm

Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:in Central: S Khan's Auto, King Sultan, Longdenville Auto Supplies, Avin's Auto

where are you located?

what about along the east-west, and south?

daring dragoon · Postby **daring dragoon** » May 20th, 2019, 3:38 pm

paid $188 for one in a yellow gallon

kamakazi · Postby **kamakazi** » May 20th, 2019, 7:36 pm

Where in south it available at that price.?

Sando/Marabella??

white e90 · Postby **white e90** » June 15th, 2019, 9:20 pm

PriceSmart has it for $178

Postby **nervewrecker** » June 15th, 2019, 9:23 pm

Valvoline or nothing.

black start · Postby **black start** » June 15th, 2019, 10:21 pm

nervewrecker wrote:Valvoline or nothing.

Guess is nothing then...

Average · Postby **Average** » June 17th, 2019, 9:54 am

I got mines at Longdenville Auto. It's crazy how other places sell the same 10W30 for $215 straight up to $275.

Side question, how much do you guys pay for an oil change? A guy charged me 130 and told me things went up so I told him this is madness so he knocked off $20.

cryotec · Postby **cryotec** » June 17th, 2019, 11:06 am

Average wrote:I got mines at Longdenville Auto. It's crazy how other places sell the same 10W30 for $215 straight up to $275.

Side question, how much do you guys pay for an oil change? A guy charged me 130 and told me things went up so I told him this is madness so he knocked off $20.

aranguez have a few shops that offer oil/filter(fram) for 200-250 and they change it for you for free.

Strugglerzinc · Postby **Strugglerzinc** » June 17th, 2019, 11:24 am

cryotec wrote:
Average wrote:I got mines at Longdenville Auto. It's crazy how other places sell the same 10W30 for $215 straight up to $275.

Side question, how much do you guys pay for an oil change? A guy charged me 130 and told me things went up so I told him this is madness so he knocked off $20.

aranguez have a few shops that offer oil/filter(fram) for 200-250 and they change it for you for free.

$60 with your own oil, $250 up including oil and filter.

kstt · Postby **kstt** » June 17th, 2019, 11:34 am

Bobby's Chase Village

CB Style · Postby **CB Style** » June 19th, 2019, 5:45 pm

I was in PriceSmart Chaguanas yesterday and saw it was selling for 162.95 (20W50)

Ted_v2 · Postby **Ted_v2** » June 21st, 2019, 11:08 pm

not me and no castrol.

plenty good thing on the market for the same price

trinigoon · Postby **trinigoon** » June 22nd, 2019, 6:40 pm

I stare clear of castrol oil ..valvoline..shell.
mobil1.NO problem..or some other off brand of If must

speedmelter · Postby **speedmelter** » June 23rd, 2019, 6:47 am

If you wana sludge up your engine, use Castrol a couple times. I used to like Castrol In 1997

Postby **eliteauto** » June 23rd, 2019, 6:50 am

NP is life

maj. tom · Postby **maj. tom** » June 23rd, 2019, 9:00 am

how come Castrol getting a bad rap here? Is it manufactured in USA and has the API starburst certification? You all sure that SAE viscosity rating is supposed to be used in the particular engine that got damaged? Because it would have passed the SAE and API standards and have a particular rating that should correspond to what's in the vehicle's manual.

I'm just asking, because I don't see how switching brands for an API certified oil would solve the problem since they have the same standards of manufacturing and purity. What experience do mechanics have? Is it the brand, or is it that people use the wrong SAE rating compared to what the manual says it requires?

speedmelter · Postby **speedmelter** » June 23rd, 2019, 9:38 am

Most oil is good. One of the best oils I ever used in a vehicle was Gulf. Was the cheapest oil at the time. Had it in a qg13 for about 10 mths and maybe 50,000 km working taxi before the level started to drop from full when I changed it. If you ever remove the tappit cover on an engine using Castrol or shine a light through the oil cap hole you are going to see a lot of thick pasty sludge. Remove the sump you gona see the same. Seen it on a quite a few engines. Clean and use shell that’s gona never happen. I personally like Liqui moly now but it’s really overpriced. Mobil 1 and all those good brands are good as well. Certification of oil I’m certain has mostly to do with testing under high pressure and temp to determine breakdown and vol/ viscosity loss to pass a minimum standard. I used to think that synthetic oil meant that it was engineered in a lab from scratch only to find out years later that it has more to do with the percentage of additives placed in the oil. Also learnt that the American standard is far different from the European standard. It’s a lot of good things to research and wisen yourself if you’re into the engineering side of things but for me I realized most oils can serve its purpose if used appropriately and marketing is the reason why some are so expensive. The more additives contained makes it more expensive as well. Use what you like at the end of it all

trinigoon · Postby **trinigoon** » June 23rd, 2019, 1:15 pm

speedmelter wrote:Most oil is good. One of the best oils I ever used in a vehicle was Gulf. Was the cheapest oil at the time. Had it in a qg13 for about 10 mths and maybe 50,000 km working taxi before the level started to drop from full when I changed it. If you ever remove the tappit cover on an engine using Castrol or shine a light through the oil cap hole you are going to see a lot of thick pasty sludge. Remove the sump you gona see the same. Seen it on a quite a few engines. Clean and use shell that’s gona never happen. I personally like Liqui moly now but it’s really overpriced. Mobil 1 and all those good brands are good as well. Certification of oil I’m certain has mostly to do with testing under high pressure and temp to determine breakdown and vol/ viscosity loss to pass a minimum standard. I used to think that synthetic oil meant that it was engineered in a lab from scratch only to find out years later that it has more to do with the percentage of additives placed in the oil. Also learnt that the American standard is far different from the European standard. It’s a lot of good things to research and wisen yourself if you’re into the engineering side of things but for me I realized most oils can serve its purpose if used appropriately and marketing is the reason why some are so expensive. The more additives contained makes it more expensive as well. Use what you like at the end of it all

oh boy Gulf was d best NON synthetic oil I ever put in a car I paid like $125 for it when it was available ..that ke70 5k engine was missing and sputtering ...put in gulf 20/50. and all miss gone engine quiet and smothe .. immediately got more powwwaaar
I was sold on the brand from that day.

Postby **Dave** » June 23rd, 2019, 1:20 pm

Oil fixing missing and sputtering? Wow. That's a first.

Average · Postby **Average** » June 23rd, 2019, 2:01 pm

maj. tom wrote:how come Castrol getting a bad rap here? Is it manufactured in USA and has the API starburst certification? You all sure that SAE viscosity rating is supposed to be used in the particular engine that got damaged? Because it would have passed the SAE and API standards and have a particular rating that should correspond to what's in the vehicle's manual.

I'm just asking, because I don't see how switching brands for an API certified oil would solve the problem since they have the same standards of manufacturing and purity. What experience do mechanics have? Is it the brand, or is it that people use the wrong SAE rating compared to what the manual says it requires?

Same thing I thinking, I'm using that for close to 6 years now with no problems. I actually had a mechanic tell me that he'll beg God for forgiveness when he gets home because he was putting Castrol in my engine :roll:

kamakazi · Postby **kamakazi** » June 23rd, 2019, 5:03 pm

Am I going to be one of the few people who never had a problem with Castrol. Used Gtx, syntec, crb turbo, hypuron. To date Castrol syntec has been the only oil to reduce engine running temp to the point where the non linear temp gauge in the car actually reported two/three marks lower under certain conditions. That is the most slippery oil I have ever felt to date and I have used my fair share of brands. Golden colour under cam cover and no sludge in the life of that vehicle to report (oil changed every 5000-6000kms).

Only stopped using it because the price almost doubled overnight. Think was around 2007. I still think the price is way too high so haven't gone back since. They also made it difficult to purchase from massy Cat (previously tracmac I think) unless you were a customer before the upgrade

Today I use what I can get my hands on the cheapest, that meets the spec required by my vehicle... And funny enough it isn't NP.

Someone mentioned sputtering; redline oil is the only oil I have known to slip past seals in sufficient quantities to make starting difficult... Happened to me twice in two different vehicles where after the oil change starting the engine took about 30 seconds and resulted in a plume of whitish smoke which cleared up