Waterpump issue... Plumbing Bantons...a werd pleax...

[Monk BANzai]

Question.... just installed a new water pump (3/4 HP) from a local vendor. Old one conked out after a 8 yr run. But the pump is constantly churning along..does not ever cut off. And im hearing a beeping sound. We changed all the leaking connections and valves.

That and when i turn on the taps upstairs....the flow of water indicates that theres air in the system...

A bit of detail so you can understand my setup. Two tanks supply four apartments downstairs and two large apartments upstairs. If i lock off the main supply from the road and use the tanks, i get that symptom. If i lock off the tanks and use the mains, the issue is less pronounced.. .but still there.

I called the local vendor to come and look at it as its under warranty..but what could the issue be? Aint wanna be clueless when dey start to rattle and hum tech on meh head.

Could it be the impeller that is faulty and not holding the pressure in the Air tank?

[cheese pie]

do you have check valves from the tank to the pump? if so are they working? if the check valve bad the pump will push water back into the tank. listen for a hissing or whistling coming from the tank.

[X_Factor]

pressure tank is good?
press the valve to see if it has air or water
and use a tire gauge to check the pressure

[Monk BANzai]

do you have check valves from the tank to the pump? if so are they working? if the check valve bad the pump will push water back into the tank. listen for a hissing or whistling coming from the tank.

check valve from the tank was faulty..we replaced those.

[crazybalhead]

Change yuh pressure tank hoss. Ten minute job.

[S_2NR]

+1 on pressure tank or go smart valve route

[pugboy]

for a setup with apts might be better to use a cyclestop valve
http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/index2.html
and small pressure tank

otherwise a large pressure tank will be required to avoid the short cycling
which is what burns more electricity and causes wear/tear

[MonsterPower]

could be your plumbing has a crack and sucking air into the supply side of the pump. not sure of a simple way to troubleshoot that without getting into the the sections of the plumbing. simple things as the check valve installed wrong or slack seal between the connections. is there a lock of valve just after the output of the pump? try locking it off and see if the pump cuts off or still cycles.

[rfari]

When the pump is running what's the range on the pressure gauge?

[Gladiator]

for a setup with apts might be better to use a cyclestop valve
http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/index2.html
and small pressure tank

otherwise a large pressure tank will be required to avoid the short cycling
which is what burns more electricity and causes wear/tear

Any local supplier for the CSV?

[2 d Max Auto]

Good advice from cheese pie and pug boy. You should have check valves on both suction and discharge. A check valve is also recommend on the incoming supply. As pug said short cycles will reduce the life of your pump, it will also send up your power consumption. I did all my own plumbing including the pump set up, just refurbished the pump after 8 years, generally speaking these things last really long.

If you'd like a reference for a very good and reasonable plumber PM me and I'll link you with reputable guy.

[wheelbarrow]

Ah reach...

Question.... just installed a new water pump (3/4 HP) from a local vendor. Old one conked out after a 8 yr run. But the pump is constantly churning along..does not ever cut off. If yuh have a valve on the outlet of the pump(the line to the house), lock it off.. If the pump builds pressure an cut off, yuh have a problem/leak on the house side of the valve.

And im hearing a beeping sound. wha brand pump yuh buy? Does it have an electronic controller?

We changed all the leaking connections and valves.

That and when i turn on the taps upstairs....the flow of water indicates that theres air in the system...

A bit of detail so you can understand my setup. Two tanks supply four apartments downstairs and two large apartments upstairs. If i lock off the main supply from the road and use the tanks, i get that symptom. If i lock off the tanks and use the mains, the issue is less pronounced.. .but still there.
As yuh getting air still even on mains only, points to a line is cracked and sucking in air. If the mains pressure lower than the pump it would explain the less air than the pump pressure

I called the local vendor to come and look at it as its under warranty..but what could the issue be? Aint wanna be clueless when dey start to rattle and hum tech on meh head.

Could it be the impeller that is faulty and not holding the pressure in the Air tank?Faulty impeller will cause flow/volume and pressure issues not air, Pressure tank will only let out air once if damaged, not as long as the time frame suggested and if yuh have one of those controllers with a pressure tank you would see the pump short cycling, yours not cutting off at all.

could be your plumbing has a crack and sucking air into the supply side of the pump. not sure of a simple way to troubleshoot that without getting into the the sections of the plumbing. simple things as the check valve installed wrong or slack seal between the connections. is there a lock of valve just after the output of the pump? try locking it off and see if the pump cuts off or still cycles.

#this

for a setup with apts might be better to use a cyclestop valve
<span class="skimlinks-unlinked">http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/index2.html</span>
and small pressure tank

otherwise a large pressure tank will be required to avoid the short cycling
which is what burns more electricity and causes wear/tear

Any local supplier for the CSV?

The Water Source has, call to see if they have any in stock

[Monk BANzai]

Thanks Pug Wheelbarrow..... will investiquire.... called a plumber who came and did a once over and made the same suggestion about the Tank pressure... he took a gander at it and realized that someone (really at a loss who tho) put a bit of a shirt to as a "filter" coming out from the larger tank. When he removed it....the flow was better/powerful.

But some of the symptoms i still seeing....if anything i'll inbox you guys to come have a look ... NO I DONT KEEP MY CORNBREAD STASH AT HOME!

Thanks again.

[dougla_boy]

so post a lil corn bread nah, bless we nah fadda, oh goar, long time hoss

[tr1ad]

so the pump not pumpitating?

[MG Man]

all dat tuh say he rentin apartment?

[pete]

Why do you need a check valve on the discharge of the pump? I've seen people putting them but I don't have one and I don't have any problems.

[sliderz1]

^to minimize backpressure usually

OP you've got a 1/2 or 3/4" intake pipe to the pump?

this one time at bandcamp using a 3/4" solved the issue on a Goulds

[pete]

Minimize what backpressure? I've heard some people say it's to protect the pump but WASA pressure isn't even at my pump pressure. Plus it allows me to see what the line pressure is right there on the gauge on the pump.

[Ted_v2]

i have check-valves into the intake and out of my water pump, 3/4 in and out.
my pump pulls from the main water line as well as my water tanks, works excellent.

a regular goulds, water pump is simple thing, refreshed my goulds and changed the pressure switch.
scrap down a pentax pump and was super satisfied with build quality but the smart head is MEH. really a silly design but a excellent idea

[pugboy]

smarthead was a good idea, it is basically an electronic cyclestop valve
kinda like how inverter aircons work, they keep motor running all the time
but at lower or higher rates instead of start stop

[ADONI]

Hey guys. I have a 1/2 horse power Gould water pump. The pump moves water from one tank to another, so every morning I would turn on the pump to fill the other tank. On Saturday I noticed it was cycling short, and the whirring sound when it came on was really softer than usual (Plus when I noticed this happening, the other tank was already filled, so I don't see whey the pump would have came on. Also, I don't think it was sending any water). Sunday, I open the pressure switch, clean the cobweb and check the black pressure line for any debris. I turned on then pump and well it came on as usual, cycle once and did not come back on. Yesterday evening at it again, I turned on then pump and nothing. I tap up the pressure switch and then the pump came on and sound as usual. Does this mean, I should change the pressure switch?

[nissan4life]

adoni what are you really trying to do? From what you stating the tanks are full,so there isnt any lost of pressure in the lines so the pump will not cycle on.

Have a visual inspection of the contacts of the switch(make sure pump is unplugged), if the contacts look burnt/damaged/low then replace the switch. Sometimes the pressure switch itself sticks, I literally greased mine up once ( this is a temporary fix as most times its still indicates the switch is defective)
Short cycling of the water pump is normally the switch or loss of air in the tank.

[De Dragon]

Minimize what backpressure? I've heard some people say it's to protect the pump but WASA pressure isn't even at my pump pressure. Plus it allows me to see what the line pressure is right there on the gauge on the pump.

When the pump comes on and you are using water and then shut off a tap, faucet, hose etc, that temporarily "deadheads" the pump, meaning that the pressure has nowhere to go but back through the pump in a reverse flow which can damage the impellers, shaft bearings, motor.

[pete]

I still don't follow that. When the tap is turned off the pressure at the pump is low so it stays on and fills the pressure tank until the pressure reaches the set point and the pump switches off.

[De Dragon]

I still don't follow that. When the tap is turned off the pressure at the pump is low so it stays on and fills the pressure tank until the pressure reaches the set point and the pump switches off.

Yes, but is the pressure always low when you turn the taps off?

[York]

Pumps work best when the "head" or pressure it is pumping against is between 30-50psi or 20-40 or whatever is set on the pressure switch. They are not designed to transfer which when filling tanks, the head is usually very low, too low on the pump curve, causing the motor to overload (get hot) and causing cavitation in the pump housing. This is actually "boiling" of the water, formation of bubbles which cause damage to the housing and more so the impeller and ring between suction and discharge.

Bottom line, pump could have gotten damaged due to this practise. Solution, throttle down the discharge valve, thereby allowing through a smaller flow and increased head on the pump discharge.

What could have also happened is that the bottom tank could have run out of water and ran dry, getting hot and causing damage. Smart heads have a built in protection to cut off when suction is out of water, pressure switch systems dont.

[York]

adoni what are you really trying to do? From what you stating the tanks are full,so there isnt any lost of pressure in the lines so the pump will not cycle on.

Have a visual inspection of the contacts of the switch(make sure pump is unplugged), if the contacts look burnt/damaged/low then replace the switch. Sometimes the pressure switch itself sticks, I literally greased mine up once ( this is a temporary fix as most times its still indicates the switch is defective)
Short cycling of the water pump is normally the switch or loss of air in the tank.

You shouldn't be greasing the pressure switch. There's WD40 or better yet CRC electrical spray.

[York]

Hey guys. I have a 1/2 horse power Gould water pump. The pump moves water from one tank to another, so every morning I would turn on the pump to fill the other tank. On Saturday I noticed it was cycling short, and the whirring sound when it came on was really softer than usual (Plus when I noticed this happening, the other tank was already filled, so I don't see whey the pump would have came on. Also, I don't think it was sending any water). Sunday, I open the pressure switch, clean the cobweb and check the black pressure line for any debris. I turned on then pump and well it came on as usual, cycle once and did not come back on. Yesterday evening at it again, I turned on then pump and nothing. I tap up the pressure switch and then the pump came on and sound as usual. Does this mean, I should change the pressure switch?

Tapping up to get things to work is old school philosophy, not practised today, lol.

[ADONI]

Hey guys. I have a 1/2 horse power Gould water pump. The pump moves water from one tank to another, so every morning I would turn on the pump to fill the other tank. On Saturday I noticed it was cycling short, and the whirring sound when it came on was really softer than usual (Plus when I noticed this happening, the other tank was already filled, so I don't see whey the pump would have came on. Also, I don't think it was sending any water). Sunday, I open the pressure switch, clean the cobweb and check the black pressure line for any debris. I turned on then pump and well it came on as usual, cycle once and did not come back on. Yesterday evening at it again, I turned on then pump and nothing. I tap up the pressure switch and then the pump came on and sound as usual. Does this mean, I should change the pressure switch?

Tapping up to get things to work is old school philosophy, not practised today, lol.

LOL! I know that does wuk from TV remote to starter....