TriniTuner.com | Latest Event:
Moderator: 3ne2nr Mods
Gladiator wrote:adnj wrote:There were just 20 posts about whether the blue was neutral or not.
Yeah I know... my advice is to follow the local TTBS colour code. Appliances not meeting the code should be reported to them for non-compliance. It could be dangerous to people that don't know better.
adnj wrote:Gladiator wrote:adnj wrote:There were just 20 posts about whether the blue was neutral or not.
Yeah I know... my advice is to follow the local TTBS colour code. Appliances not meeting the code should be reported to them for non-compliance. It could be dangerous to people that don't know better.
I keep a copy of TTS 171 at my office. Blue is only mentioned for third leg 3-phase AC. The local EIG Rhino cable color code is made to EU/IEC standards, not TTS/NEC. But I suppose that is moot. You just need to wire it correctly.
Gladiator wrote:Print this and keep it too... Note section on single phased installationsadnj wrote:Gladiator wrote:adnj wrote:There were just 20 posts about whether the blue was neutral or not.
Yeah I know... my advice is to follow the local TTBS colour code. Appliances not meeting the code should be reported to them for non-compliance. It could be dangerous to people that don't know better.
I keep a copy of TTS 171 at my office. Blue is only mentioned for third leg 3-phase AC. The local EIG Rhino cable color code is made to EU/IEC standards, not TTS/NEC. But I suppose that is moot. You just need to wire it correctly.
Download Higher Resolution here: http://www2.ttconnect.gov.tt/gortt/wcm/ ... OD=AJPERES
alfa wrote:MicroSMD Lab wrote:Gladiator wrote:Just to note that there is a configuration that comprises a single wire 220v which has one live line and a neutral line...MicroSMD Lab wrote:^^ while that may be true, we don’t import electrical devices from all over the world. UK uses a different cycle AC from us and is mainly 220V so neutral may not be as necessary in their electrical devices. Anyway, what does the installation instructions say?
True, I have seen this with a couple of devices but 220v seems to be 2 x 110v for the most part, I'm just trying to lend a helping hand hopefully without misleading or confusing readers who may not be "electrically inclined".adnj wrote:Trinidad imports electrical components from all over the world. Some companies such as Eaton and Cooper Standard have manufacturing on five continents.
Did you notice that I said "devices" and not "components"?adnj wrote:On the topic of electrical standards, not even China, Taiwan and Hong Kong share the same electrical transmission standards, much less color coding.
Does China "typically" export the same products as the ones they produce for domestic use?adnj wrote:Fame shower heaters switch coil resistance with a blue wire contact but switch both line and neutral with the diaphragm contacts.
The picture you posted previously shows the coil resistance being switched via the white wire not the blue. I agree that the live wire should be switched but in this case both live and neutral are switched via the diaphragm. However, the white wire switches the coil resistance, which, will very likely be switched while the unit is energized (external switch on) right? Now while switching, if we use the white wire as live, momentarily we would have a loose live wire very close to a possibly wet hand, the ground goes to the water chamber, not above the diaphragm so guess where the live wire will be going to complete the circuit and which company will be getting a bad reputation!
I am an engineer, but not electrical. I guess Prof. Julien and Mr. Lutchman went way beyond 2nd year EE with us....
This is true but since the white wire switches the coil resistance if we use the blue wire as the live once the diaphragm makes contract then even if the coil resistance is disconnected via the switch then one leg of the coil will always remain energized which will be another hazard in itself. I prefer the live to go to the switch contacts as how all appliances are wired
MicroSMD Lab wrote:alfa wrote:MicroSMD Lab wrote:Gladiator wrote:Just to note that there is a configuration that comprises a single wire 220v which has one live line and a neutral line...MicroSMD Lab wrote:^^ while that may be true, we don’t import electrical devices from all over the world. UK uses a different cycle AC from us and is mainly 220V so neutral may not be as necessary in their electrical devices. Anyway, what does the installation instructions say?
True, I have seen this with a couple of devices but 220v seems to be 2 x 110v for the most part, I'm just trying to lend a helping hand hopefully without misleading or confusing readers who may not be "electrically inclined".adnj wrote:Trinidad imports electrical components from all over the world. Some companies such as Eaton and Cooper Standard have manufacturing on five continents.
Did you notice that I said "devices" and not "components"?adnj wrote:On the topic of electrical standards, not even China, Taiwan and Hong Kong share the same electrical transmission standards, much less color coding.
Does China "typically" export the same products as the ones they produce for domestic use?adnj wrote:Fame shower heaters switch coil resistance with a blue wire contact but switch both line and neutral with the diaphragm contacts.
The picture you posted previously shows the coil resistance being switched via the white wire not the blue. I agree that the live wire should be switched but in this case both live and neutral are switched via the diaphragm. However, the white wire switches the coil resistance, which, will very likely be switched while the unit is energized (external switch on) right? Now while switching, if we use the white wire as live, momentarily we would have a loose live wire very close to a possibly wet hand, the ground goes to the water chamber, not above the diaphragm so guess where the live wire will be going to complete the circuit and which company will be getting a bad reputation!
I am an engineer, but not electrical. I guess Prof. Julien and Mr. Lutchman went way beyond 2nd year EE with us....
This is true but since the white wire switches the coil resistance if we use the blue wire as the live once the diaphragm makes contract then even if the coil resistance is disconnected via the switch then one leg of the coil will always remain energized which will be another hazard in itself. I prefer the live to go to the switch contacts as how all appliances are wired
While this is logical, there is another aspect of the design to consider. The ground wire, which MUST be connected, is extended into the water chamber, therefore while the coil might be energized, the ground wire in the water will take care of the possibility of anyone getting shocked from an unconnected live wire while switching the temperature. I got shocked from unplugging a device with a wet hand so I can imagine that switching an unconnected live wire with a wet finger about 1cm away with no alternative ground is a VERY dangerous situation. Furthermore, I ask again, what does the instructions say? I am almost certain it says that the white wire is neutral but I don't have one to confirm. Are we saying that the Trinidad and Tobago authorities knowingly allowed this device with a wiring flaw to be sold here for 30+ years without making a correction?
VexXx Dogg wrote:Ok well this helps a bit. I could live with that.
I'll still look into some timers tho. I will sleep better LOL
You are asking about a DPST (dual pole, single throw) spring wound countdown timer. 30A may be available but I have only seen 20A used for bathroom infrared heating control.VexXx Dogg wrote:Bumping this.
Wanna install one - kid decided that she wants hot water now.
I know the usual thing is to put a standard water heater switch, but I live in a house where people WILL forget to switch it off and potentially burn it out.
I was thinking about an industrial grade mechanical timer type switch that will turn off by itself after a preset time - say 5 minutes, but it should be configurable to up to 30 as needed.
Any suggestions on that kinda switch?
Return to “Ole talk and more Ole talk”
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 10 guests