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:: The official TOOLS thread ::

this is how we do it.......

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Rovin
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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Rovin » January 16th, 2021, 11:25 am

sped thru d vid , a ton of work , some ppl have relllllllllll patience & dedication ....

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby *KRONIK* » January 16th, 2021, 7:09 pm

Fellaz, where sells soldering flux?
And whats the avg price?

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby adnj » January 16th, 2021, 8:10 pm

*KRONIK* wrote:Fellaz, where sells soldering flux?
And whats the avg price?
There are two kinds:
acid - for copper tubing and plumbing at AC suppliers and some hardwares.

Rosin - for electronics is usually hard to find except at circuit board electronic stores. Most electronics solder is rosin core.

Guessing a price for acid flux: two ounces for $20. Maybe $50 or $60 for two ounces of rosin flux.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby pugboy » January 16th, 2021, 8:38 pm

what you soldering ?
electronics or aluminium/copper appliance type ?

*KRONIK* wrote:Fellaz, where sells soldering flux?
And whats the avg price?

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby *KRONIK* » January 17th, 2021, 9:45 am

Electronics
Wanna solder in some quick connect terminals to a fusebox, so i can install it and wont have to solder in-situ.

I get some stress with the last set of wiring i did.
Solder refuse to stick, just melting and dripping off
Was really frustating
pugboy wrote:what you soldering ?
electronics or aluminium/copper appliance type ?

*KRONIK* wrote:Fellaz, where sells soldering flux?
And whats the avg price?

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby adnj » January 17th, 2021, 10:15 am

If your solder blobs, it's almost always because the metal is dirty from oxidization. There's lots of info online but using a brass brush on both the terminal and block until bright followed by a light melt of rosin-core solder to tin the surfaces separately is what I usually do.

When you join the metals, the fluid solder will wet the tinned surfaces much more thoroughly.

It's also a very good practice to tin stripped wire before termination crimp and then soldering that crimp. It prevents corrosion in the crimp.

It's more work but may be worth the trouble for some. It's a part of the NATO specification on wire harness construction.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby *KRONIK* » January 17th, 2021, 10:27 am

Yea
Basically this is what was happening.
I aint no pro at soldering, so its a learning experience for me.
I realized that the oxidation was causing the rejection of the solder, but i had no choice as it was the vehicles original bulb harness which was cut to attach a plug-in type terminal (waterproof)
So, i just wanated to have the flux to help with the soldering.
adnj wrote:If your solder blobs, it's almost always because the metal is dirty from oxidization. There's lots of info online but using a brass brush on both the terminal and block until bright followed by a light melt of rosin-core solder to tin the surfaces separately is what I usually do.

When you join the metals, the fluid solder will wet the tinned surfaces much more thoroughly.

It's also a very good practice to tin stripped wire before termination crimp and then soldering that crimp. It prevents corrosion in the crimp.

It's more work but may be worth the trouble for some. It's a part of the NATO specification on wire harness construction.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby adnj » January 17th, 2021, 10:48 am

*KRONIK* wrote:Yea
Basically this is what was happening.
I aint no pro at soldering, so its a learning experience for me.
I realized that the oxidation was causing the rejection of the solder, but i had no choice as it was the vehicles original bulb harness which was cut to attach a plug-in type terminal (waterproof)
So, i just wanated to have the flux to help with the soldering.
adnj wrote:If your solder blobs, it's almost always because the metal is dirty from oxidization. There's lots of info online but using a brass brush on both the terminal and block until bright followed by a light melt of rosin-core solder to tin the surfaces separately is what I usually do.

When you join the metals, the fluid solder will wet the tinned surfaces much more thoroughly.

It's also a very good practice to tin stripped wire before termination crimp and then soldering that crimp. It prevents corrosion in the crimp.

It's more work but may be worth the trouble for some. It's a part of the NATO specification on wire harness construction.


Soldering takes practice. There should be some videos on how to do it correctly... the hardest part is keeping the soldering iron tip clean and from getting too hot by wiping it on a damp cloth or sponge. Too much heat creates oxides, too.

Hope it works out.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby *KRONIK* » January 17th, 2021, 11:35 am

Lol

Yea
It will
Its nothing complicated
And its new wires i gonna be dealing with so i shouldnt have oxidation to deal with
adnj wrote:
*KRONIK* wrote:Yea
Basically this is what was happening.
I aint no pro at soldering, so its a learning experience for me.
I realized that the oxidation was causing the rejection of the solder, but i had no choice as it was the vehicles original bulb harness which was cut to attach a plug-in type terminal (waterproof)
So, i just wanated to have the flux to help with the soldering.
adnj wrote:If your solder blobs, it's almost always because the metal is dirty from oxidization. There's lots of info online but using a brass brush on both the terminal and block until bright followed by a light melt of rosin-core solder to tin the surfaces separately is what I usually do.

When you join the metals, the fluid solder will wet the tinned surfaces much more thoroughly.

It's also a very good practice to tin stripped wire before termination crimp and then soldering that crimp. It prevents corrosion in the crimp.

It's more work but may be worth the trouble for some. It's a part of the NATO specification on wire harness construction.


Soldering takes practice. There should be some videos on how to do it correctly... the hardest part is keeping the soldering iron tip clean and from getting too hot by wiping it on a damp cloth or sponge. Too much heat creates oxides, too.

Hope it works out.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Joshie23 » January 17th, 2021, 11:44 am

adnj wrote:
*KRONIK* wrote:Yea
Basically this is what was happening.
I aint no pro at soldering, so its a learning experience for me.
I realized that the oxidation was causing the rejection of the solder, but i had no choice as it was the vehicles original bulb harness which was cut to attach a plug-in type terminal (waterproof)
So, i just wanated to have the flux to help with the soldering.
adnj wrote:If your solder blobs, it's almost always because the metal is dirty from oxidization. There's lots of info online but using a brass brush on both the terminal and block until bright followed by a light melt of rosin-core solder to tin the surfaces separately is what I usually do.

When you join the metals, the fluid solder will wet the tinned surfaces much more thoroughly.

It's also a very good practice to tin stripped wire before termination crimp and then soldering that crimp. It prevents corrosion in the crimp.

It's more work but may be worth the trouble for some. It's a part of the NATO specification on wire harness construction.


Soldering takes practice. There should be some videos on how to do it correctly... the hardest part is keeping the soldering iron tip clean and from getting too hot by wiping it on a damp cloth or sponge. Too much heat creates oxides, too.

Hope it works out.


I learned something new. Thanks adnj.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby pugboy » January 17th, 2021, 11:52 am

once upon a time I used to mod playstations as a side hustle
some of those old ones required soldering direct to the chip legs, real tiny and big risk of sticking to multiple legs

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Rovin » January 17th, 2021, 7:16 pm

pugboy wrote:once upon a time I used to mod playstations as a side hustle
some of those old ones required soldering direct to the chip legs, real tiny and big risk of sticking to multiple legs


used to own a games shop back in ps1\ps2 days so i know what u mean, had to use a low wattage soldering iron cause u risk messing up any circuitry

i used to mod ps1 those were fairly easy but not ps2 cause those were way more complicated so i used to hire a guy to do it ...

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby hindian » January 17th, 2021, 7:54 pm

I usually use muriatic acid to clean oxidized copper wire before I solder and it usually works for me just have to be aware of the fumes. Have a damp cloth to clean the solder tip as well. You can check Shams for the flux though.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby grnrstbn » January 27th, 2021, 9:28 pm

Sorry this is not strictly speaking a tool query but I am looking for a Thermal Fuse (to be used in an Air Fryer)
172C cutoff, 110 V like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K38Z8JR/?c ... _lig_dp_it

Who would carry something like this?

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby pugboy » January 27th, 2021, 9:48 pm

Will get back to you

grnrstbn wrote:Sorry this is not strictly speaking a tool query but I am looking for a Thermal Fuse (to be used in an Air Fryer)
172C cutoff, 110 V like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K38Z8JR/?c ... _lig_dp_it

Who would carry something like this?

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby *KRONIK* » January 27th, 2021, 10:03 pm

Ended up ordering a kit online
Wire, flux, and some other ting
Stuff just piling up here, no time to install

hindian wrote:I usually use muriatic acid to clean oxidized copper wire before I solder and it usually works for me just have to be aware of the fumes. Have a damp cloth to clean the solder tip as well. You can check Shams for the flux though.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby NR8 » January 28th, 2021, 3:23 pm

Guys I've put my Karcher K5 premium pressure washer up for sale. Check it out here viewtopic.php?f=11&t=759750

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby *KRONIK* » January 28th, 2021, 3:43 pm

Nice
If anybody want my k4 for a lil 1200....
I go take this
NR8 wrote:Guys I've put my Karcher K5 premium pressure washer up for sale. Check it out here http://www.trinituner.com/v4/forums/vie ... 1&t=759750

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Rovin » January 29th, 2021, 11:42 pm

not advertising free for anybody but look yet another chinese tool brand on d local market .... EMTOP

https://www.facebook.com/brydenshardwar ... 325895035/

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby pugboy » January 30th, 2021, 5:19 am

boi brydens quickly taking over the marketplace

they selling everything now, from alcohol to foodstuff to tools(dewalt) to medical equipment/supplies

Rovin wrote:not advertising free for anybody but look yet another chinese tool brand on d local market .... EMTOP

https://www.facebook.com/brydenshardwar ... 325895035/

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Strugglerzinc » January 30th, 2021, 1:02 pm

It'll be like tyres and engine oil just now. Every distributor selling a different cheap brand.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby carluva » January 30th, 2021, 6:17 pm

It's what the market wants and caters for many people. Not everyone can afford a Bosch or a Milwaukee or a Makita.

The cheaper brands are good for the home user and DIYer as they will work when needed and don't necessarily need to stand up to constant use and abuse.

Tyres and engine oil is as complete no no and there should be some control and standards in that as these could affect vehicle performance and ultimately affect lives.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby grnrstbn » January 30th, 2021, 9:42 pm

pugboy wrote:Will get back to you

grnrstbn wrote:Sorry this is not strictly speaking a tool query but I am looking for a Thermal Fuse (to be used in an Air Fryer)
172C cutoff, 110 V like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K38Z8JR/?c ... _lig_dp_it

Who would carry something like this?


I called a couple of places but no luck so I ordered from amazon. :(
Still, let me know if you know anyone, I am all for supporting local.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby pugboy » January 30th, 2021, 9:46 pm

i have, sent you a pm back then

grnrstbn wrote:
pugboy wrote:Will get back to you

grnrstbn wrote:Sorry this is not strictly speaking a tool query but I am looking for a Thermal Fuse (to be used in an Air Fryer)
172C cutoff, 110 V like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K38Z8JR/?c ... _lig_dp_it

Who would carry something like this?


I called a couple of places but no luck so I ordered from amazon. :(
Still, let me know if you know anyone, I am all for supporting local.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby grnrstbn » January 30th, 2021, 11:00 pm

pugboy wrote:i have, sent you a pm back then



Nothing ever came :o

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Cooper » January 31st, 2021, 6:54 am

Try Montrose Electronics. I got a replacement thermal fuse for a Nuwave oven there.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby grnrstbn » January 31st, 2021, 9:48 pm

Cooper wrote:Try Montrose Electronics. I got a replacement thermal fuse for a Nuwave oven there.


Nice, thank you, i will give them a call.

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Ted_v2 » January 31st, 2021, 11:41 pm

looking for cheap chopsaw, might be used once a month or something.

any recommendations? or anyone used those total branded chopsaws?

what about a 7" chopsaw?

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby supercharged turbo » February 1st, 2021, 1:39 am

Total might be the way to go for cheap.Anybody know where I can get Simichrome and Blue Magic metal polish locally?

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Re: :: The official TOOLS thread ::

Postby Rovin » February 1st, 2021, 1:29 pm

Ted_v2 wrote:looking for cheap chopsaw, might be used once a month or something.

any recommendations? or anyone used those total branded chopsaws?

what about a 7" chopsaw?


hoss chopsaw get so dog cheap now , when i started doing welding\fab 20+ yrs ago a chopsaw used to be around $3300 & same 4.5" grinder was around $1200 , really cant recall locally seeing under 14" which u shud stick with since it can cut majority of steel including beams

14" abrasive blade also cheap at $30 & last fairly long

nowadays u getting good 14" dewalt\makita\milwaukee for around $1200-$1500max & 4.5" grinder under $500 , take meh advice & doh play cheap buy a good makita\milwaukee 14" , d cheaper brands like B&D & dem chinese stuff not cheaper by much like $200 & look flimsy

look for 1 with a pressed metal base rather than cast iron which is much heavier to tote around .... a 1time buy which can last 20+yrs under occasional use

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