AE110/111 Thread

[Ronaldo95163]

I hear what you saying. But AE111s and the B15s were out in more or less the same time period. The B15 would have been far superior in the engine dept. The 111 wins in everything else for me....they even had IRS which the B15 didn't have

Also I love how I keep discovering new things digging around in these cars. Found an open connector behind the under steering finisher there and it turns out to be for a speaker that should've been there.



Anyone has this speeaker from factory and can confirm its size? I measured the vent with a Vernier caliper and I got 2.875 inches.
So i'm of the feeling that the speaker should be 3 inches.

[agent007]

Actually my friend, the e11x debut back in 95' and the JDM b15 back in 98'. E11x came to an end in 2000 and b15 ended in 05. There was a small overlap yes but the generation of engines found in the b15 is only superior to e11x engines because the A series line of engines existed for decades prior to the arrival of the QG. It's a very unfair comparison! But may I go as far to say this: the highest spec JDM b15 with the exception of the very very rare vzr model comes with a qg15de which is what the majority of b15s have in the country whether ex or super saloon. There is absolutely no way in terms of performance, that this QG15DE equipped car would be superior to say a local or singapore imported ae111 with the 4A-FE engine. The e11x despite having an IRS design was not a very complicated one geared towards sporty handling so it's not exactly a huge advantage over the b15's torsion beam setup.

[Ronaldo95163]

What's your pick between the VZR and the AE111 GT???

Never drove a 4AFE before. People always tell me it's fast (well for what it is) but never drove one to confirm it before. The 5AFE I can confirm is slow lol.

Regarding the IRS setup...it's the same design Toyota used in the GT and the Levins. Only difference from what I saw is that the adjustable control arms on those came with rose joint bushes as opposed to the solid ones on the normal 111s.

[agent007]

5a-fe to me would be forgiven because of how reliable it is once you treat it right and has good fuel economy. Yes it's very weak in performance. The 4A-FE is much better and noticeably different. Not very easy to get but it's possible. I know it's virtually impossible to get the 7A-FE here.

What engine does the GT have? 4A-GZE? It doesn't matter whether it's the BZR 4A-GE 20V BT or the GZE. I prefer the SR16VE because I like the sound of valve lift. Very even match with slight advantage to the VE vs GE but I smell advantage for the GZE over the VE because of that torque figure and as we know, torque and acceleration go together.

[Ronaldo95163]

111GT has the 20v BT as well with a 6spd gearbox (non lsd unlike the BZR though)

I don't think the VZR want anything with this


Saw both the 4AFE and 7AFE in the same place when I was looking for a head and block. But both of them was way too expensive compared to the 5A...stuck with the 5A

[Ronaldo95163]

Anyone knows where I can get these swaybar clamps?

Control arms worked back on the subframe no problem...but i'm missing these clamps to secure the swaybar properly

[Anthony Soprano]

I have a 4AGE blacktop 20v transmission for sale if anyone is interested.

[Ronaldo95163]

Did some work on the brakes this weekend. Still having some problems though.

Changed to proportioning valve to the one out of a Lexus RX300, brake lines and change the master cylinder to the one out of the sharkmouth galant ( 1 inch bore...mine (13/16 bore) was bad and I had this lying around)...did all of this because of the rear disc brake conversion as well as the front upgrade to the GT discs and calipers.

Car stops pretty well now. Pads are some cheap stuff so i'm sure it could be better. However the pedal feel is the issue. So like driving for a while the pedal feels pretty normal. Then all of a sudden it gets really firm at times. Not sure if it could be the booster maybe?

If I drive fast the pedal gets like that. Under normal conditions it's pretty normal.
Also sometimes if the car is at a standstill and I pump the brake pedal repeatedly the idle rises by like 500 rpms and stays like that until I stop pumping.

The pedal sinks to the floor however if I hold it there and start the care (the booster test nah). But i not sure if it could probably still be failing :/


Got the clamps as well for the swaybar btw. Car handles much better now. Would definitely recommend doing this mod along with the control arms.

[Mercenary]

Hi guys, we had three ae111's, two were locals and the other was a roro. All were equipped with the updated and last iteration of the 4A-FE engine. We also had an ae101 with the 5A-FE engine as well. I saw a lot of references made to compare these motors with the Nissan QG15/16/18 earlier in this thread and in my humble opinion, it was unfair to compare these older Toyota engines to this newer line of Nissan engines. A more fair comparison would be the Nissan GA line of engines. GA15DE to 5A-FE and GA16DE to 4A-FE. The very rare 7A-FE motor afaik was not a JDM spec motor but found it's way in the USDM. That 7A should be compared to the SR18DE. The black top GA16DE NVTCS would be superior to the 4A-FE. In terms of longevity/reliability and fuel economy, the Toyota engines win. With the onset of the 1NZ-FE, a QG15DE doesn't stand a chance and the 3ZZ-FE got superiority over the QG16DE. This continues with the 1ZZ-FE over the QG18DE and SR18DE. USDM AE11x Corolla sedans got 1ZZ motors in its final production run. Anyone wishing to get more power from their E11x chassis better stick a 4A-FE or head straight to 1ZZ. I wish I can get my hands on a local Corolla GLi sedan with a PBK/PBL/PBM registration which were the last 1.6 ae111 sedans TTTL ever imported. If I ever see a stock/original one for sale, I'll pounce on it. Laterz guys.

i hate the local headlights...but yea they hold value

[racedriverpro]

Did some work on the brakes this weekend. Still having some problems though.

Changed to proportioning valve to the one out of a Lexus RX300, brake lines and change the master cylinder to the one out of the sharkmouth galant ( 1 inch bore...mine (13/16 bore) was bad and I had this lying around)...did all of this because of the rear disc brake conversion as well as the front upgrade to the GT discs and calipers.

Car stops pretty well now. Pads are some cheap stuff so i'm sure it could be better. However the pedal feel is the issue. So like driving for a while the pedal feels pretty normal. Then all of a sudden it gets really firm at times. Not sure if it could be the booster maybe?

If I drive fast the pedal gets like that. Under normal conditions it's pretty normal.
Also sometimes if the car is at a standstill and I pump the brake pedal repeatedly the idle rises by like 500 rpms and stays like that until I stop pumping.

The pedal sinks to the floor however if I hold it there and start the care (the booster test nah). But i not sure if it could probably still be failing :/


Got the clamps as well for the swaybar btw. Car handles much better now. Would definitely recommend doing this mod along with the control arms.

Sounds like the check valve in the brake booster hose. Or leaking hose.

[Ronaldo95163]

Did some work on the brakes this weekend. Still having some problems though.

Changed to proportioning valve to the one out of a Lexus RX300, brake lines and change the master cylinder to the one out of the sharkmouth galant ( 1 inch bore...mine (13/16 bore) was bad and I had this lying around)...did all of this because of the rear disc brake conversion as well as the front upgrade to the GT discs and calipers.

Car stops pretty well now. Pads are some cheap stuff so i'm sure it could be better. However the pedal feel is the issue. So like driving for a while the pedal feels pretty normal. Then all of a sudden it gets really firm at times. Not sure if it could be the booster maybe?

If I drive fast the pedal gets like that. Under normal conditions it's pretty normal.
Also sometimes if the car is at a standstill and I pump the brake pedal repeatedly the idle rises by like 500 rpms and stays like that until I stop pumping.

The pedal sinks to the floor however if I hold it there and start the care (the booster test nah). But i not sure if it could probably still be failing :/


Got the clamps as well for the swaybar btw. Car handles much better now. Would definitely recommend doing this mod along with the control arms.

Sounds like the check valve in the brake booster hose. Or leaking hose.

Checked the check valve and it's good. The hose wasnt leaking as far as I could tell. I'll still change it.

The brake pedal now sinks straight down to the floor and only engages really when it reaches the end of it's travel (Just like it did before I changed the MC and the proportioning valve which is starting to confuse me)

[sharaz]

Anyone have any tips on where to get shocks and springs?

I hear kdb is the best but it is more expensive (and it not coming with spring and head)

The foreign used shocks are like 1200 for all 4 and they coming with spring and shock head. Whats your taughts on this>

[Ronaldo95163]

Anyone have any tips on where to get shocks and springs?

I hear kdb is the best but it is more expensive (and it not coming with spring and head)

The foreign used shocks are like 1200 for all 4 and they coming with spring and shock head. Whats your taughts on this>

KYB definitely worth it. Running Those front and back. Used back my springs etc.

I wasn't really for Foreign used shocks. You not sure on how long they gonna last. Better to go brand new one time.

[black start]

Real fake kybs out there so be cautious with that

[Ronaldo95163]

Found this 5-lug conversion guide

http://www.ae101ownersclub.org/t2984-front-5-lug-swap

[shem1996_]

Looking for a house lamp housing for my ae110

[Ronaldo95163]

Reverse takes a while to go in on mornings (like 3-5 seconds)...have to rev it up hard for it to finally jump in...when warm everything works normal....Auto tranny btw...5AFE

What could be the cause of this?
From researching it some people say its the solenoids or valve body (or both)...people does still fix these things? (And how much to repair something like this)

Manual swap looking feasible rn

[black start]

Manual swap looking feasible rn

If you want to get the most out of it, flush with new oem toyota oil and you could try a lucas transmission treatment. I had great results on failing transmission in the past that had the same issue as yours...

Gearbox conversion is nice if you keeping the car, but if affects resale on cars like these.

[Ronaldo95163]

Manual swap looking feasible rn

If you want to get the most out of it, flush with new oem toyota oil and you could try a lucas transmission treatment. I had great results on failing transmission in the past that had the same issue as yours...

Gearbox conversion is nice if you keeping the car, but if affects resale on cars like these.

I'm keeping it so resale isn't really a big issue for me.
So it's really a sign of a failing tranny...or atleast early symptoms?
It's been like this for a while...but sometimes its annoying and catches me off guard...esp when making a reverse turn on an incline or something

[black start]

Yea, that's a sign of it failing. Some guys repair, most just replace.

Manual conversion is nice, but these 4a-fe aint no great power house if you expecting performance.

Could look at a 4age swap?

[Ronaldo95163]

Yea, that's a sign of it failing. Some guys repair, most just replace.

Manual conversion is nice, but these 4a-fe aint no great power house if you expecting performance.

Could look at a 4age swap?

Yeahh 5AFE is a deadass engine no mc(Always thought the 4AFE was way more peppy though)...I have plans to do a BT swap but in the future (bout a year or so) as I wanna make sure everything else in the car in order as it's my daily. I was originally holding out for that period to go manual with the BT one time but the problem annoying now.

Thing is this tranny was replaced, previous owner didn't mention it but I noticed the Pink ink they does mark it with in the bamboo some time after.

Not feeling to go through that with another 19 year old transmission...who knows how long i'll get out of it...and the transmissions expensive too (Just because it's toyota ) So I don't mind going Manual now...will make it easier in the future when swapping in the 20 valve.

[Ronaldo95163]

Completed the swap...Starter and axles were the same. Kept my ECU and cluster to cut cost too...wiring was small thing to get it started and the reverse lights working.

While I was in the bamboo I saw that the 4AFE came with factory extractors...was thinking of getting them. Was wondering what would be a good size piping to go with as an exhaust upgrade.

ik for 20 valve men does normally run 2" or 2.25" piping...was wondering if that would be too much for the 5AFE?

[Ted_v2]

Gains not worth it, keep ur stock Setup.

[Ronaldo95163]

Damn well that sucks

BTW got my hands on a BT 20 valve which was given to me...but it needs rebuilding.

Head was already port and polished as well as shaved...but its disassembled...I have everything to reassemble it though. It's just the cams are out, but valves still in the head. Got it with the intake as well. I plan to replace the seals anyway.

However the block. It's good,but the reason why it was out of a vehicle in the first place was because the oil pump failed and apprently it spun a bearing. But from inspection the block is in really good condition.

I only got 3 pistons with it(with rings and connecting rods and bearings) so far and no crank. So I was weighing out my options.

In the event that I don't get the crank and the 4th piston, should I just get a second hand block and rebuild the whole thing with the head I got?

Or should I keep what I got and purchase a new crank and a piston and rebuild the whole engine with with the block that I was given?

Of course with new rings and seals etc for both options. The piston I got are in really good condition as well tbh.


I don't intend on doing it like now for now, but over the course of a year or so...I know it's not gonna be cheap either way so i'm not in a rush.

[black start]

Get a good cranks, some forged rods and pistons and booce

[Ronaldo95163]

Get a good cranks, some forged rods and pistons and booce

I wanna keep it n/a

[black start]

Then get some aftermarket rods and pistons and keep the compression high

[zorced]

Hey guys, looking all over for 2nd gen 4AFE Factory Service Manual.
Trying diagnose trouble codes 24 and 52... The only manual I found online only has up to code 51 so it's probably not the same version.

[Ronaldo95163]

Hey guys, looking all over for 2nd gen 4AFE Factory Service Manual.
Trying diagnose trouble codes 24 and 52... The only manual I found online only has up to code 51 so it's probably not the same version.

Boyyy this is the hardest thing to find...will check through my docs and see if I have anything.
Documentation on these A series (non-GE) engines kinda hard to find in general.

Then get some aftermarket rods and pistons and keep the compression high

Been looking into this also. Stock ECU can handle this?
Still googling around to see what other folks are running and what success they're having.

[black start]

You'll need something tuneable