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Fellas i have a PCJ Corolla local from the firm and im experiencing some AC Issues i.e it cuts in and work when it wants and then it stops working from time to time.

Took it to the AC Repairman and he told me the compressor is the issue some electronic valve on the compressor that regulates the flow of gas is giving trouble ( doesn't make sense servicing it he said ). Showed me the pressure gauge which showed 90 psi when it supposed to be around 40 psi while operating.

However he says i have to replace the compressor which costs $2500.00 Foreign Used
$4000.00 brand new Chinese/Taiwan
$7000 by Toyota

Don't know if you all can share some insights

Hi, I understand the problem that you're having and i'm willing to assist with solving it at a fraction of the cost than most of the other alternatives out there. Tenth gen corollas 2007-2012 Axio/Fielder(Japan) and the 2008-2013 International models (US and local corollas) began using a solenoid valve in their Air Condition Units, replacing the previous gen clutch type found in earlier model corolla Air Condition units. As a consequence of contaminants and a breakdown of the oil within your compressor over a protracted period of time, the solenoid begins to stick and malfunction, of course this takes several years to occur but it does and this is the problem you are presently experiencing. I sell the solenoids at a quite reasonable price of only $800. Your other options including calling Ravi would likely incur you several hundred or thousands of dollars more, with more downtime, inconvenience to yourself and unnecessary modifications to your vehicle to accommodate a 'conversion'.
Feel free to send me a contact or give me a call at 3990153.

trust no other ac repairman than ravi in the bamboo.....had a similar issue with my 2010 corolla and got sorted quickly....

yeah, it is a very common solenoid valve problem with newer compressors

I went by Ravi also, he put in a foreign used unit for about $2500 I think.
You need to get one from an older engine like nze-121

If the solenoid is replaced, how long will this work for if the oil breakdown and contaminants causes the issue?

usually the same amount of time it took for the original one to go bad, usually nothing less than 7 years, and while i'm not discounting the expertise of Ravi, it's comical to even venture to assume that he's the only competent AC technician in Trinidad and Tobago, get real please, lol.

I have a Local Corolla NZE-141 PCN GLX
Do anyone know which of these solenoid would work

Short one

http://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Contro ... ge_o00_s00

Long neck one

http://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Contro ... dp_summary

toolpusher wrote:I have a Local Corolla NZE-141 PCN GLX
Do anyone know which of these solenoid would work

Short one

http://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Contro ... ge_o00_s00

Long neck one

http://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Contro ... dp_summary

If you're willing to forgo the guessing game and would like to purchase the correct and factory certified compatible solenoid valve contact me at 3990153, trust me you'd be a lot better off and would have saved yourself some time and cash.

Long neck unit is what the local corollas would require

My problem on 2008 141

AC compressor coming on only when the car pulls off, then air gets cold.

Went to AC men who promised the fix for: $4000 for new compressor installed or $2000 for solenoid installed


My solution

Topped off until bubbles stopped on gauge glass (in the engine on the ac line) with 134 a gas with dye ($40) and one tin condenser cleaner ($65 at maharaj ac in Aranguez) and clean when engine cold.


No probs for last 6 months, if gas too low or too high then the solenoid will not turn on

http://densoautoparts.com/sites/default ... 20tips.pdf

I usually do my research before go to repair technicians

hope this helps

Did you get the solenoid replacement part?

bump up .. same issue with my local corolla.. funny I just came from the parts place which advised the same thing . . .great post.. however was the issue sorted and resolved for you guys?

BoxEater wrote:trust no other ac repairman than ravi in the bamboo.....had a similar issue with my 2010 corolla and got sorted quickly....

Anyone has a contact number or directions for "Ravi in the bamboo?"

bamboo #2.... ravi is located after the savannah...instead of following the road going left, keep straight... obliquely opposite siwala street

you will see the sign on the RHS.

his number is 7368971

Thank you. Will Google map it to see where exactly I going.

can someone please post their findings or solutions for a permanent fix? I have changed the control valve twice already. It's a temporary fix, lasts 2-6 months. Seems to have a lot of people asking for information here and noone has posted a permanent fix... even if the fix is to change the entire compressor.

RB34 wrote:can someone please post their findings or solutions for a permanent fix? I have changed the control valve twice already. It's a temporary fix, lasts 2-6 months. Seems to have a lot of people asking for information here and noone has posted a permanent fix... even if the fix is to change the entire compressor.

Well Currently my mechanic is in the process of retrofitting a QG18 compressor to the system.

It was completely, all brackets built etc, cost was around $1500-2000 with wiring and labor etc.

Compressor works like a charm.. unfortunately I got a bad unit and it seized up yesterday.

However for the 3 days it was running, it worked perfectly fine and I could say that I did not have the need to raise the blower past 1 as it was very cold (even during the hot sun).

Will keep everyone updated on the findings.

RB34 wrote:can someone please post their findings or solutions for a permanent fix? I have changed the control valve twice already. It's a temporary fix, lasts 2-6 months. Seems to have a lot of people asking for information here and noone has posted a permanent fix... even if the fix is to change the entire compressor.

I change the whole compressor on my 141 to the 121 compressor. minor modification done to the lines as well as a change of belt. No issues for over a year now.

Changed the solenoid it lasted 2 months will change the compressor

If the problem is the contaminants and oil breakdown, wouldn't the valve go bad if you replace it with the broken down oil still in the system? Is there a way to flush the entire system then change the valve?

The vacuum system supposed to clean. Some fellas maybe not doing this process.

Folks,
The issue for the valve going bad is not contaminants or oil breakdown. This is a sealed high-pressure system. Nothing can get in to contaminate.
I have a 15-year old Fielder with freezing AC. Never did any repairs except change cabin filter. I am doing 174,000kms.
AC repairmen give the public a lot of s--t, as the average John Public do not know how a refrigeration system operates. Always want to change your drier and expansion valve at every whim.


The compressor in question is always turning, once the engine is running.
The solenoid operated valve is fitted in a port that links the suction and discharge of the compressor.
When the AC is not operating the valve is open, suction and discharge are linked, so the compressor "floats"..........It is not doing any work.
When you turn the AC on, the valve closes, and the suction and discharge are isolated from each other. The compressor starts to work, and the blower blows air through the evaporator inside, which is cooled.
The thermostat setting controls the opening and closing of this valve, to cool or not to cool. OK ?


In the older cars the same electrical signal that would operate the solenoid valve, was used to turn on and off, an electromagnetic clutch on the compressor. With AC off, the belt would just turn the pulley alone, which would be "idle".
When you turn on the AC, the electromagnetic clutch would go "clack" and couple the pulley to the compressor shaft, and the compressor would start to work. Inside the car cools.

The opening and closing of the solenoid valve promotes wear, just like your pipe tap in your bathroom opening and closing every day. And yes, even though the gas contains oil it will still wear over time. Too, like in any valve arrangement, the seat surfaces where the o-rings seal against (which would be the compressor) can wear too. If you travel to POS from SFdo on a normal weekday, you would be surprised to find out how many times that valve opens and closes.

Personally, I feel that if you can retrofit the electromagnetic clutch-type compressor, you will have less heartache. And don't go looking for some B-11 Sunny compressor. Go for something from a more modern car if you are going foreign-used.
Compressor F/U is about $2500 these days.
The Clutch-type compressor has proven itself reliable, and the solenoid type has conversely proven itself with failures. Ask anyone with a Corolla about 5 years old, and they will tell you about failures.

Still, I have two links below from Amazon which possibly can be the valve.
Peace.
RR.

https://www.amazon.com/XtremeAmazing-Co ... dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/New-Compressor-E ... dpSrc=srch

A lot of technicians now fabricating brackets and installing some sort of cheaper nissan ac compressor.

Not the best option, but I've seen a few and they work pretty fine once done correctly!

Is this the compressor being used to replace the one with the troublesome internal valve on the 2008 Fielder?

black start wrote:A lot of technicians now fabricating brackets and installing some sort of cheaper nissan ac compressor.

Not the best option, but I've seen a few and they work pretty fine once done correctly!

Hey black start... who the techs that doing this in Central... bro car has this issue

Since no one answered my question I went ahead and took the chance and got the compressor pictured above and it worked out great. It's a direct bolt on, the only modification needed was to heat the clamp on one of the lines and turn it around plus slightly straighten out the same line a bit. Although the pulley is bigger the same belt works on it thanks to the wide range of adjustment available. It looks like a factory installation and that's what I was hoping for. I'm enjoying constant cool breeze again.

During my research however, I came across a possible cause for the premature failure of the solenoid valve. The original one fails after about 8 years due to normal wear and tear, but the replacement valve could be failing too quickly because of the lubricant our local a.c. technicians are using whenever they do a repair. These new compressors use polyalkylene glycol (pag) based lubricant, whereas our techs are still using polyolester (poe) based lubes. Both are miscible with r134a refrigerant but the two oils themselves don't mix with each other. When they come into contact with each other paraffin wax forms and that is capable of fouling the solenoid valve. I'm no a.c. tech, nor am I a chemist, that's just what I came across while reading.

Toyota trinidad has many new cars which go bad soon after sale.....
Ask any mech there , many many warranty replacements

While my compressor was being installed a woman with a 2 year old Kia Sportage came in to have her gas pressures checked. The a.c. tech told me he had to replace her evaporator a few days ago ..... 2 years old, imagine that. My co-worker had to replace his Nissan Sylphy evaporator after 3-1/2 years. he bought his car new from Massy. Some components on these new cars just aren't as durable as they need to be.

^^ We had two Tucson (first and second model) and exactly at 4 year old, the evaporators went. The first model Tuscon I had replace with a FU and that lasted 4 1/2 years until I sold it....