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Question time on my install again....amp question...

(I.C.E.)In Car Entertainment - Mobile Audio and Video

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altec
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Question time on my install again....amp question...

Postby altec » December 31st, 2020, 9:07 am

For those that have heard and played around with a jl tw3 sub....how much louder will 500 watts sound compared to 200 watts? I am referring to observable difference for an SQ oriented everyday use vehicle. Reason...I have two 4x100 channel amps to run comps in front and coax in the rear. I also have a mono 500watt amp for sub duty. That means there would be 2x100 watts not doing anything which can go to the sub and I would avoid installing the 500 watts amp. The amp rack frame is made and the placement of components is about to begin. I have kids so I need the rear speakers.

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SR
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Re: Question time on my install again....amp question...

Postby SR » December 31st, 2020, 10:01 am

Use all 3 amps

500 mono on the sub
1 4 channel amp configure as follows
2 channels on the front rweeters
2 channels on the rear coaxials

2nd 4 channel bridged to 2 channels on the front midbass


:)

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SR
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Re: Question time on my install again....amp question...

Postby SR » December 31st, 2020, 10:03 am

Or
1 4channel to run the front comps
2 channels for tweets
2 channel for mid bass

2nd 4 channel
2 channels for rear coaxials
2 channels bridged on the sub

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Re: Question time on my install again....amp question...

Postby kavaninho » December 31st, 2020, 6:34 pm

SR wrote:Use all 3 amps

500 mono on the sub
1 4 channel amp configure as follows
2 channels on the front rweeters
2 channels on the rear coaxials

2nd 4 channel bridged to 2 channels on the front midbass


:)


Go with this option if space is not an issue.

The TW3 has no problem getting loud in a ported. The TW1 even does great justice on a 300W or so.

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altec
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Re: Question time on my install again....amp question...

Postby altec » January 1st, 2021, 5:42 pm

ok.....minor problems an annoyances continue to pop up.... wire paths looking like its a bother..... What is your take on the spacing between where the wire has to pass and the tire? On a side question....Is it possible to repaint the DSP and get exact color paint? Oh I need to test everything to make sure they are working since they were down for a couple years especially the DSP...i forgot it in an old shed for about a year.....fingers crossed that all is well.
Attachments
de problem2.jpg
wire placement
de problem1.jpg
the problem of the wire placement
spare in.jpg
What I want butt the rear wiring is a problem

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Firewall
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Re: Question time on my install again....amp question...

Postby Firewall » January 2nd, 2021, 9:55 pm

The sub in the spare looks awesome.

My take on your wiring is:

Square up the equipment instead of slanted as it looks to have more space that way.

If it does not, then mount the equipment on 1/2 spacers and drill the wire holes under them.

Either way once it gets under the floorboard.

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Re: Question time on my install again....amp question...

Postby Dave » January 3rd, 2021, 12:19 pm

Interesting spare tyre build. What went into making it?

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altec
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Re: Question time on my install again....amp question...

Postby altec » January 3rd, 2021, 2:04 pm

The sub could have been done better but the experiment was a first time. I use two sided tape and stuck strips of card board on the inside of the rim. Then I masked the cardboard off with painters tape. Oh I shaped the inside to allow space for the wheel' locking screw. The wheel is still bolted down. I went with a low profile tire( used) just to make space for the amps. I could have taped direct to the rim but I wanted space to allow for wheel balancing weights. It also leaves space to carpet the enclosue.

After that it was fiberglassing. I got shitty resin and hardener from Bhagwansingh which caused no end of problems. It was not hardening. I had to blast it with a heat gun set on high to force the resin to kickstart the hardening chain reaction. Before the heatgun I waited about 15 minutes and the mix was still liquid. This allowed some areas to seperate a bit because the resin was draining off from the glass mat. Worked like hell to try and fix that after curing. I thought it was me not getting good proportions of hardener to resin so I made sure the second time and same thing happened again. All my hard work to have the fiberglass level and minimum bubbles with up in smoke. Bought resin from another hardware after that and did an extra layer of glass, five in total.

I used an MDF ring to fiberglass the top. When I completed all glassing, I bolted the baffle to the ring with lots of wood glue. Wire was ran on top between the finishing board and the baffle. A groove was routered out for the wire which was filled and sealed with resin after the wire was installed, then the baffle was sanded flat. The finishing board is also bolted and glued to the baffle. This was an experiment to learn because I cannot pay for someone to do that kind of work. If the box eventually fail, I know I can rebuild it better. Resin really effed me up. Sub enclosure can be removed to take out the spare if needed.
Last edited by altec on January 3rd, 2021, 2:22 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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altec
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Re: Question time on my install again....amp question...

Postby altec » January 3rd, 2021, 2:20 pm

On a side note... I too old to be doing this kinda ah work....

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Re: Question time on my install again....amp question...

Postby Dave » January 3rd, 2021, 2:34 pm

Kudos for the time and effort. Full points for effort and execution.

I am in the same dilemma and was going to build similar but with a series of over lapping circles building up a lil at a time.

Same as you, don't want the hassle of removing a box plus getting younger lol.

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Re: Question time on my install again....amp question...

Postby nervewrecker » January 15th, 2021, 10:47 pm

Hey some reason from corsa. They are where I buy my polyester.

Use mold release on the rim or painters tape and foil strips. Water helps keep the foil in place.

Do a test batch. Some of my builds have info on it. Thinners is your friend and a half hard or stiff paint brush to press out bubbles.

I think was 5 to 8 drops of activator to half a coke can or three quarter.
You can bore the bottom and bolt the spare tyre through it. Use a good rubber seal to make it air thight.
Silicone from a silicone hose can work well. If not yellow jacket ac hose seals are like $5.00. they hold 500psi easy. Cut it in half or quarter. Don't overtighten. As you catch it, 1/8 turn again.

Can flush mount a baffle and pass wires through holes in the tyre.

Or slightly raised baffle drilled from the side to get wire in and seal it with caulk or silicone. I have a link for polyethylene if you want.

Them amps are complete garbage. Sell them, I buying all.

Can mount them to a board floor and make another raised false floor flush mount with the amps. Or sell me all.

Expanding foam is your friend to make shapes to pull mat over. Use a silicone barrier. I had resin eat styrofoam already. The silicone helped form a good thin barrier.

Also, resin and baby powder makes for a good finishing coat. A few layers as a matter of fact. Sanding and shaping is like sanding chalk.

And lastly, those amps not good, sell me them.

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Re: Question time on my install again....amp question...

Postby nervewrecker » January 15th, 2021, 10:50 pm

You can stick modeling clay or kids putty shiz along the bottom inside across and cut the edges flat. Make ridges as bracing. Two to three layers thick and you golden.

Can do a few from the center to the edges of you like..

Extra bracing.

Remove the putty and repeat.

Remember the foil or tape as a barrier. Rough up the surface of the enclosure nice before doing it.

Can use the baby powder composite for a nice sandable finish.

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