Moderator: 3ne2nr Mods
Rovin wrote:try sub LPF at 80hz ...
nervewrecker wrote:From looking at his crossover points, I think his choice of equipment is wrong.
Seems he wants a park and play / heard coming around the corner / damage your hearing kinda system. Went with $$$ to a store and thought more expensive means top of the line so it will bark.
3- 400 watts with adequate cone area can be satisfying. 500 watts up can get uncomfortable easy.
VexXx Dogg wrote:The XD is only 300RMS on sub if I remember correctly. I bought this amp 3 separate times for 3 separate builds. Lovely amp, until I found something better.
I found it lacking on a 10" sealed RF P3. It filled the cabin nicely, but lacked the deep lows that you get with ported.
Try deadheading your sub filters at the HU level, and run the amp slope at 12db/oct with a 80hz cutoff.
SR wrote:also a possibility the sub is either in series or out of phase when paralleled to bring it down to 2 ohm
Rovin wrote:sub bass is really supposed to be 50hz down [this is how mine is set in my wagon, my front speakers start from 50] but most typical listeners wud prefer their sets a bit boomier\punchier like from 80 down thats why i suggested 80 as a starting point to see if that wud suit OP's preference ... then u look at d other factors
SR wrote:moving crossover freq from 60hz to 80hz increased bass output??
something doesn't sound right there to me sub bass is from 60hz down
cabin gain in a hatch is higher than a sedan
your sub is rated from 50watts to 500 watts
the xd sub channel puts out 300 rms at 2 ohm at 14.4 volts
sub channel rca voltage out on the deck is 4 volts
suggest not using the xvover on the deck and use the variable xovers on the amp as well as re check your gain level settings
the sub will be under powered but the system should still sound balanced based on the equipment you have
also a possibility the sub is either in series or out of phase when paralleled to bring it down to 2 ohm
Brian Steele wrote:Five things matter with the choice of an electrical x-over point:
1. Frequency (e.g. 60 Hz)
2. Slope (commonly 6,12, 18 or 24dB/octave)
3. X-over relative gain (in dB)
4. Relative phase
5. Delay (usually in ms, though it can be quoted in terms of distance, e.g. "cm")
Five things will influence the choices made above:
1. The location of the speakers relative to the listener
2. The relative sensitivities of each speaker in their passbands
3. Loudspeaker driver frequency response power-handling capabilities
4. "Cabin-gain" and other cabin-related issues that impact the frequency response
5. Listening preferences, e.g. SPL frequency response
So, that's about TEN different things you've got to consider to get the best results. That's a LOT of variables to consider. So when someone suggests to just change one of those variables, like shift the x-over frequency, what about the others?
Rovin wrote:& if that still not cutting it then like nerve said move up to more cone area like at least a 10 ported ...
considering getting it tuned professionally, if I can find a good shop near by.
Ted_v2 wrote:I have a sealed setup. Sounds good inside the vehicle but can't hear it more than 7 ft away I would think. Suits my taste fine as the music is for my enjoyment. But with such small power, you need to go ported or go with a sub with a larger cone area as this would give you a little edge.
Ryan123 wrote:Ted_v2 wrote:I have a sealed setup. Sounds good inside the vehicle but can't hear it more than 7 ft away I would think. Suits my taste fine as the music is for my enjoyment. But with such small power, you need to go ported or go with a sub with a larger cone area as this would give you a little edge.
Don't really care that much about hearing it far away, my issue is that the sub doesn't feel present, definitely going to build a ported enclosure for it sometime in the future.
Anyway a little update:
Ended up purchasing a handheld oscilloscope, set the amp gains with it, huge difference in mids and highs slight difference in the sub was able to carry the crossover back down to 50Hz, it's pretty good now, I did attempt to find the clipping point of my headunit but only got a good voltage @ max volume (2.3V) other than that the wave was un readable at lower volumes so ended up using the 3/4 method. Also found out that the signal from the sub out is only coming from the Left RCA it may be an issue with the unit itself .
kavaninho wrote:Depending on how the amplifier input stage treats the sub L/R inputs, this may have a effect on your subwoofer output. Use a rca splitter to provide signal to both sub inputs in the interim.
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 11 guests