SUBS DISASTER !!!!

[saints_sound]

i want to know what is the best Sub to use daily .. i am going with Re because i had a pair of RE SE 12" and the performed really well playing for long periods ... i sold them now and all my subs i keep buying ..i end up selling them because they cant play for long periods they end up getting hott .. i have decided to go back with Re but i want a little more than the Re SE... }

SO I WANT TO KNW WHAT ARE MY BEST OPTIONS FOR DAILY PLAYING
IS IT THE SXX SUBS
THE XXX SUBS
OR THE RE MT SUBS

PLEASE HELP !!!!!! OR IF YOU KNW OF ANY OTHER GOOD PLAYING SUBS THT COULD TAKE JAMMING AND PLAY FOR A LONG WHILE BE SURE TO COMMENT IT WOULD BE APPRECIATED THANKS

[nervewrecker]

How bout you diagnose the problem first? Why were the coils getting hot in the first place?

Hot coils sound like temperature rise due to clipping or over powering. Tell us more about your system settings.

RE SE series subs use the same motors as the SX series so the cooling system is adequate for a 1000watt coil. You may have been clipping the SE coils but due to the fact that it cooling system is overkill the coils remained a bit cooler than the other dudes you experimented with afterwards.

[RAJIE]

hmm if u willing to put out money to buy a re xxx why not buy a 15" 95series dd and done

[a little louder]

do the people you sell your subs to know you have been toasting your coils?

[ChristianRD]

hmm if u willing to put out money to buy a re xxx why not buy a 15" 95series dd and done

any explanation why?

[saints_sound]

do the people you sell your subs to know you have been toasting your coils?

lol i am not toasting the coils .. i am using a hyfonics 1500 D ... never toasted any speaker ... all im saying is that i does like to play music for long and so far Re stood up the best against long hrs of playing ... i had T3 T600 12" ... premier 3000 ... DD 9515 ..and well RE SE ... i wanted to try the hcca orions or something like the SXX or MT or XXX ... i just want a speaker to take some jaming and yes i do get spec enclosures for all my subs .. so any advice in my case peeps ?

[- Rovin's car audio -]

best ting for long hrs of jamming is some cheap pioneers or audiopipe & if it bun u throw it away & buy more , u eh go loose no big setta $ ....

[saints_sound]

best ting for long hrs of jamming is some cheap pioneers or audiopipe & if it bun u throw it away & buy more , u eh go loose no big setta $ ....

that was actually an option to buy the steelpan model pioneers and change the coils LOL

[nervewrecker]

*sigh*

find a next installer / adviser ok.

[-Roach-]

best ting for long hrs of jamming is some cheap pioneers or audiopipe & if it bun u throw it away & buy more , u eh go loose no big setta $ ....

that was actually an option to buy the steelpan model pioneers and change the coils LOL

W T F

[shake d livin wake d dead]

*sigh*

find a next installer / adviser ok.

[MONGO]

that dd i sold you stood up cool as ever and took 5 hours jammin..

[saints_sound]

that dd i sold you stood up cool as ever and took 5 hours jammin..

yea but space bro ...tht 9500 was to big for my car trunk ..LOL

[shake d livin wake d dead]

that dd i sold you stood up cool as ever and took 5 hours jammin..

yea but space bro ...tht 9500 was to big for my car trunk ..LOL

you bought a sub n den realised it was to big for your trunk

[saints_sound]

that dd i sold you stood up cool as ever and took 5 hours jammin..

yea but space bro ...tht 9500 was to big for my car trunk ..LOL

you bought a sub n den realised it was to big for your trunk

boi i taught it wudda work but then the box for the sub end up being too small

[pimptacular]

sound like your the kinda guy who likes to set his gains high on his amp...

[saints_sound]

sound like your the kinda guy who likes to set his gains high on his amp...

actually nuh really the gain on my hyfonics 1500D never went more than half

[carfreak1024]

How bout you diagnose the problem first? Why were the coils getting hot in the first place?

Hot coils sound like temperature rise due to clipping or over powering. Tell us more about your system settings.

RE SE series subs use the same motors as the SX series so the cooling system is adequate for a 1000watt coil. You may have been clipping the SE coils but due to the fact that it cooling system is overkill the coils remained a bit cooler than the other dudes you experimented with afterwards.

The RE SE subs do have killer cooling capabilities but your above statement is not entirely accurate as the SE subs definitely use a smaller motor than the SX subs do, they always have. The reason that the SE subs maybe did not get as hot maybe had to do with the fact that it was a pair of subs, the tuning of your box and crossover settings. Another reason why the subs may not have gotten hot is that RE uses some really good voice coils in their entire line. When RE subs fail, it is 90% of the time not due to the coils failing but rather the moving assembly itself. This is due to the fact that the motors that they design do not bottom easily and allow for the sub to move freely way beyond what it is supposed to. I got my personal RE SRX10" to move 3"+ without bottoming.

But if you looking to upgrade your subs and stay within the RE line, any one of their subs now above the SRX line will do the job. The new SE Pro subs now come built like the older series subs in the USA but with upgraded single soft spiders and aluminum flatwound voice coils. The SX Pro uses a larger motor and an 8 layer voice coil, with double and stiffer spiders than SE. If you move to the higher end subwoofers like the MT you not going to be satisfied as although it is a higher end woofer than the SX and SE it is not as efficient and thus needs a solid 2500RMS amp to really "start" to perform, per woofer. I would not recommend the XXX either as a decent sized box for a XXX will definitely be too big and the sub weighs a ton.


If yuh need any advice from someone who has worked with all the subs mentioned above gimme a shout!

[saints_sound]

How bout you diagnose the problem first? Why were the coils getting hot in the first place?

Hot coils sound like temperature rise due to clipping or over powering. Tell us more about your system settings.

RE SE series subs use the same motors as the SX series so the cooling system is adequate for a 1000watt coil. You may have been clipping the SE coils but due to the fact that it cooling system is overkill the coils remained a bit cooler than the other dudes you experimented with afterwards.

The RE SE subs do have killer cooling capabilities but your above statement is not entirely accurate as the SE subs definitely use a smaller motor than the SX subs do, they always have. The reason that the SE subs maybe did not get as hot maybe had to do with the fact that it was a pair of subs, the tuning of your box and crossover settings. Another reason why the subs may not have gotten hot is that RE uses some really good voice coils in their entire line. When RE subs fail, it is 90% of the time not due to the coils failing but rather the moving assembly itself. This is due to the fact that the motors that they design do not bottom easily and allow for the sub to move freely way beyond what it is supposed to. I got my personal RE SRX10" to move 3"+ without bottoming.

But if you looking to upgrade your subs and stay within the RE line, any one of their subs now above the SRX line will do the job. The new SE Pro subs now come built like the older series subs in the USA but with upgraded single soft spiders and aluminum flatwound voice coils. The SX Pro uses a larger motor and an 8 layer voice coil, with double and stiffer spiders than SE. If you move to the higher end subwoofers like the MT you not going to be satisfied as although it is a higher end woofer than the SX and SE it is not as efficient and thus needs a solid 2500RMS amp to really "start" to perform, per woofer. I would not recommend the XXX either as a decent sized box for a XXX will definitely be too big and the sub weighs a ton.


If yuh need any advice from someone who has worked with all the subs mentioned above gimme a shout!

thanks bro

[nervewrecker]

How bout you diagnose the problem first? Why were the coils getting hot in the first place?

Hot coils sound like temperature rise due to clipping or over powering. Tell us more about your system settings.

RE SE series subs use the same motors as the SX series so the cooling system is adequate for a 1000watt coil. You may have been clipping the SE coils but due to the fact that it cooling system is overkill the coils remained a bit cooler than the other dudes you experimented with afterwards.

The RE SE subs do have killer cooling capabilities but your above statement is not entirely accurate as the SE subs definitely use a smaller motor than the SX subs do, they always have. The reason that the SE subs maybe did not get as hot maybe had to do with the fact that it was a pair of subs, the tuning of your box and crossover settings. Another reason why the subs may not have gotten hot is that RE uses some really good voice coils in their entire line. When RE subs fail, it is 90% of the time not due to the coils failing but rather the moving assembly itself. This is due to the fact that the motors that they design do not bottom easily and allow for the sub to move freely way beyond what it is supposed to. I got my personal RE SRX10" to move 3"+ without bottoming.

But if you looking to upgrade your subs and stay within the RE line, any one of their subs now above the SRX line will do the job. The new SE Pro subs now come built like the older series subs in the USA but with upgraded single soft spiders and aluminum flatwound voice coils. The SX Pro uses a larger motor and an 8 layer voice coil, with double and stiffer spiders than SE. If you move to the higher end subwoofers like the MT you not going to be satisfied as although it is a higher end woofer than the SX and SE it is not as efficient and thus needs a solid 2500RMS amp to really "start" to perform, per woofer. I would not recommend the XXX either as a decent sized box for a XXX will definitely be too big and the sub weighs a ton.


If yuh need any advice from someone who has worked with all the subs mentioned above gimme a shout!

Well I guess maybe I was wrong. I always thought was the same. Never checked up on the SEx and SXx line though.
The Pro line up looks pretty nice though, glad they gone back to the previous look cuz the new one sucks a$$. Motor looks the same on the SE and SX pro though. 7.3" * 3.4"

[music_installer89]

yuh should really think bout the audiopipe txxbf15,i hav 2 bd15's and they rock,the bf is the newer and higher end to mine!!!!!!!

[riadb]

do the people you sell your subs to know you have been toasting your coils?

lol i am not toasting the coils .. i am using a hyfonics 1500 D ... never toasted any speaker ... all im saying is that i does like to play music for long and so far Re stood up the best against long hrs of playing

this is your problem right here.. not having an adequate current supply to back up the system WILL cause your amplifier to clip and overheat any subwoofer during any lengthly period of play. Also pushing any subwoofer over the thermal power handling limit will cause it to heat up. The old SE motors had cooling comparable to the SX motors so it would have been better at dealing with the clipped signals.

As everybody said, get a better installer/advisor.

[Brian Steele]

not having an adequate current supply to back up the system WILL cause your amplifier to clip and overheat any subwoofer during any lengthly period of play.

Question - If there was an adequate current supply to back up the system, and the amplifier did NOT clip, would it be delivering more or less power to the subwoofers? And which of those two scenarios would result in greater heat having to be dissipated by the subwoofers?

[silent_riot]

I think he means that keeping the amp out of clipping, without DC signals being fed to the subwoofer, ensures that the sub is properly cooled given it has not passed its thermal limit. Not necessarily, that more power or less power is better...

[Brian Steele]

I think he means that keeping the amp out of clipping, without DC signals being fed to the subwoofer, ensures that the sub is properly cooled given it has not passed its thermal limit. Not necessarily, that more power or less power is better...

First of all, no good amp is going to feed "DC signals" to a subwoofer, unless something gone seriously wrong with the amplifier's power and protection circuitry. Clipped signals <> DC signals.

Secondly, no amplifier I know about is going to produce more power to the subwoofer under a situation that results in less power to be fed into the amplifier (e.g. voltage at the amp's terminals decreasing due to the inability of the electrical system being able to feed the amplifier the current it needs to achieve full power).

Finally, the subwoofers are only going to heat up more if they are trying to dissipate more power than usual.

So, given points 1 and 2, where is this extra power coming from to cause this effect?

[silent_riot]

I think he means that keeping the amp out of clipping, without DC signals being fed to the subwoofer, ensures that the sub is properly cooled given it has not passed its thermal limit. Not necessarily, that more power or less power is better...

First of all, no good amp is going to feed "DC signals" to a subwoofer, unless something gone seriously wrong with the amplifier's power and protection circuitry. Clipped signals <> DC signals.

Secondly, no amplifier I know about is going to produce more power to the subwoofer under a situation that results in less power to be fed into the amplifier (e.g. voltage at the amp's terminals decreasing due to the inability of the electrical system being able to feed the amplifier the current it needs to achieve full power).

Finally, the subwoofers are only going to heat up more if they are trying to dissipate more power than usual.

So, given points 1 and 2, where is this extra power coming from to cause this effect?

I stand corrected on point 1, it was a bit early for me to be posting. "Fed" is definitely incorrect, "experienced" is better.

I think what he was trying to explain is the effect of clipping, and the lack of cooling that occurs when a subwoofer experiences a clipped signal.

But electrical limitation is one cause of amplifier clipping, namely at the power supply of the amp.
If the amp clips, the sinusoid tends to square waves; and the similar amplitude square wave has more power, but is distorted. It just cannot swing its output voltage any more. This would be why amplifiers have distortion ratings on power specifications. Higher distortion: higher power, lower distortion: lower power.

[Brian Steele]

and the similar amplitude square wave has more power

...and that's where this hypothesis falls apart.

Let's ignore for the moment that such a badly clipped signal would sound really awful to almost anyone and should be key indicator that the volume needs to be turned down, and consider this: if the power supply to the amplifier falls to the point that the amplifier can no longer produce a clean output signal, the output signal at that point would NOT be at the same amplitude as the unclipped signal the amplifier was previously sending to the subwoofers..

This goes back to the second point I made - no amplifier I know about is going to output more power into a subwoofer when its power input is decreased, by voltage sag or otherwise.

[silent_riot]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clipping_(audio)#Sources_of_clipping

[RAJIE]

that dd i sold you stood up cool as ever and took 5 hours jammin..

yea but space bro ...tht 9500 was to big for my car trunk ..LOL

too big u say?
dd site have plans for their subs

http://www.ddaudio.com/tech-support/dd- ... plans.aspx

and also to get max also teaches how to make an enclosure to fit your trunk.
http://www.ddaudio.com/tech-support/dd- ... steps.aspx

if its in the lancer u goin to put it .. it should fit.

because the enclosure i built for t3 subs is 3.13cuft and after port an sub displacement it was 2.5cuft and it sounded rel impressive.
and i faced the box in all the postion in my trunk and the sound was the same

1 15 95series dd hoss very impressive..

[noise_maker]

clipping problems, distortion check dis out
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=447798