Sealed or Ported (how to choose)

[nervewrecker]

Saw this and thought it might be something worth posting here with the amount of box builders popping up on every corner and half dont seem to know what they doing.

The Qts of the speaker indicates the shape of the roll-off. A Qts of .707 is considered ideal for infinite baffle because provides the best compromise between low frequency extension and transient response. So, let's say you have a woofer and you want to build a sealed box. Let's also say you have a TARGET Qtc (total Q of the box and woofer) of .707 and your woofer has a Qts of .5

The box volume will be calculated to provide an "aid" to the speaker's suspension (makes the suspension stiffer) so that the Qtc will be raised to the target of .707. If the woofer has a very compliant suspension (low Q) then the box will have to contribute more restoring force, so it will have to be small. If the woofer has a stiff suspension (higher Q) then the box will have to contribute less restoring force, so it will have to be bigger. If the Qts of your woofer is higher than the target Qtc, then the target isn't achievable.

So, the Q of the woofer determines the volume of the box for a given target Qtc. The low frequency extension is determined by the woofer's resonance frequency, Fs. The Fs is also raised in the sealed box iin the same proportion as the increase in Qts to Qtc.

So, a woofer with a really low Qts and a low Fs is well suited to a small sealed box SO LONG AS THE VOICE COIL IS LONG. Sealed boxes require much more excursion from the speaker than vented boxes do. A woofer with a short coil is not well suited to a sealed box unless it will be driven with very low power.

A vented box is more complicated. It's a combination of a sealed box and an additional resonance. A low Q woofer designed for a sealed box will work just fine in a vented box, but the additional coil necessary for the sealed box will be wasted in the vented box and its mass makes for a less efficient system than a woofer with the same Q and less mass.

Anyway, the box volume for a vented box is calculated to provide a target response similar to the sealed box. Usually the volume is a bit bigger because we want a lower Qtc (which doesn't really exist in the vented arrangement, but we'll use it as an example).

The port is basically a speaker that's designed to play loudly at one note. Its response is a peak. We design the port to have a response that compliments the response of the woofer. We hear the sum of the output of the woofer and the output of the port. If we increase the tuning frequency, we have an area where the port's response and the woofer's response have a small gap--that creates a peak in the response in those frequencies. If we move the port to a lower frequency, we have a dip in the frequencies in between. Usually, the resonance frequency is chosen to extend the low frequency response as low as possible while maintaining flat response. For small bookshelf-style home speakers, a little bump is often helpful in providing some additional bass.

At the frequency where the box is tuned, the port plays, but the woofer hardly moves. This is because the acoustic impedance (pressure) inside the box is much higher. Yes, the pressure inside a ported box is HIGHER (at the tuned frequency) than in a sealed box. Below the frequency where the box is tuned, there is much LESS pressure than in a sealed box--hence the need for a subsonic filter. So, at the low frequencies where the box is tuned, the woofer doesn't move much, so we don't need a heavy long coil. That makes it easier to make a more efficient woofer, since we don't need so much moving mass.

OK, so what does all of this mean?

1. If you're going to use lots of power and a sealed box, then you need a woofer with a long coil.

2. If you're going to use a vented box, a woofer with a shorter coil will be fine.

3. If you use a woofer designed for a small sealed box (low Q) in a vented box, the box volume requirement will be small and the port frequency requirement will be low. That means the port will be very long and the box will be difficult to build because the port will be difficult to fit in the box.

4. If you use a woofer with a short coil, designed for a vented box, in a sealed box with high power, the woofer will run out of coil and you'll hear distortion. Because the condition that produces the distortion is symmetrical (coil leaves the gap in both directions), the distortion will be mostly odd-order, which sounds nasty. "Brap Brap Brap".

So, what's the conclusion?
Your power requirement and choice of box type determines whether a long coil (woofer with high Xmax) is necessary. Almost all woofers will work in a sealed or vented box, so long as the woofer's Qts is lower than your target Qtc. A woofer with a Qts higher than .707 will have a peak in its response NO MATTER WHAT KIND OF BOX YOU USE. The rest is a matter of compromising between box size, power required to hit a target SPL and required low frequency extension.

When you put the box in the car, the transfer function (car's frequency response) will be added to the response of the woofer. this will produce roughly a 12dB per octave increase in level as frequency is reduced starting at about 50 or 60 Hz, depending on the size of the car. A vented box will give you a big peak and a sealed box will not. If you have an EQ, then you can reduce the peak by reducing the power the amp has to provide at those frequencies. I think a vented box and EQ is always the best way to go, so long as you can afford the space and the EQ.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/tec ... ained.html

[nervewrecker]

Not one comment but it have a heap of box builders on the forum. It makes one wonder if 90% of them even know what they doing.

[- Rovin's car audio -]

oh goar u doing like u eh know how here does be

when u post good technical info ppl does jes ignore u ....

[shake d livin wake d dead]

what he said^,nerve you should noe the average chuner is level taxi pong eh,just look at what does be selling in the classifieds and it would make you wonder if what you posted relevant to those guys,yes,it's a great read for those who actually know about music....but......yuh noe where i going.

[nervewrecker]

I actually trying to learn the science behind box design but real people building boxes out here. I was hoping some of them might come in and shed some light on the reason for a particular design / choice and we can discuss something.

[Soundstream_626]

Lol what kind of discussion you hoping for with people who build by guess?

Great article though, Andy really breaks things down for you. I`m always eager to read his posts on DIYMA.

[Brian Steele]

I think a vented box and EQ is always the best way to go, so long as you can afford the space and the EQ.

That about sums it up.

Unless you're like me and prefer to fit two subs into a sealed enclosure that fits into the same space as one of those subs would have required for a vented enclosure, and I don't have to worry about the damned things unloading below Fb or about any funky big peak that needs to be EQ'd out to stop the damned thing sounding like a tractor idling no matter what's playing on the deck .

[nervewrecker]

more subs = more cone area, less output per driver and smaller box, ported = more output per driver but with larger box. Each has its tradeoffs.
I seem to not be a fan of a flat response, I prefer a bump on the lower end being a bit of a bass head and the fact that its less audible. The unloading part has me weary though, I say tune low and hope for the best yes lol.

[ruffneck_12]

Was playing around with several designs in BBP : what the manufacturer recommends, what the formulas at DIYsubwoofers.org recommends, what enclosure I have built already

the lines with the peaks are the vented and the smooth curve is sealed

which one should I go with?
It's a 10" sub in a small room, on less than 400W... Building an SQ setup

[nervewrecker]

i'd go for the pink line.

[dg216]

Quick question i have a pair of image dynamics ctx6.5cs components up front, nothing in rear and a ID12v3 sub ported at around 30 hz no matter how i adjust the subsonic filter and gain it just seems really boomy .. have you guys ever used this sub sealed ? i don't want to lose that much output or i guess loudness , i have a phoenix gold sd800.5 5 channel 75 watts each to front comps and 300@ 2 ohms to sub any help would be appreciated

[nervewrecker]

Try dropping your low pass filter a bit.
You have any other xovers besides that on the amplifiers? If the head unit has one try coupling it with that on the amp so the slopes add and you have a steeper cutoff point.

[MONGO]

turn off all bass boost on the amp.

[nervewrecker]

what if all is already off?

[MONGO]

i don't like using bass boost, if the box response has peaks and dips the bass boost can be used to even out the response, but you need to set it properly to much boost does cause boomy bass.

[Brian Steele]

Was playing around with several designs in BBP : what the manufacturer recommends, what the formulas at DIYsubwoofers.org recommends, what enclosure I have built already

the lines with the peaks are the vented and the smooth curve is sealed

which one should I go with?
It's a 10" sub in a small room, on less than 400W... Building an SQ setup

This is a toughie. My current DIY home sub is a 10" driver with a predicted response like what's illustrated in the pink line. It sounds fine. My room isn't small though. I'm also able to close off the vent, converting it into a near critically damped sealed alignment, which sounds a bit better with some music.