noise problem

[lazydude]

I never get any engine noise to day i change the front door speakers to the pioneer D series 6 inch i all of a sudden started too get engine noise never got it before. i have a a pre amp clarion
pioneer deck
3 way cross over kicker
2 amps bass and mids kicker and crunch

i took out d new speakers and still got d noise in the back door speakers

[lazydude]

no i did not how will that help

[ST Auto]

u blow ur ground in ur deck...always disconnect ur poles..if u pull out ur rca's or ur speaker wire touch d car body it will blow d ground in d deck causing d noise..is a easy fix..all dem pioneer deck so..try grounding d rca it would reduce the noise by abt 80%

[kurpal_v2]

Why does noone ever recommend actually fixing the blow fuse?

[nervewrecker]

I will like to think thats not the problem because the OP never said he did the swap with the system turned on. if he did that however he should be shot in the foot & banned from the forum for being stupid because people who do that will change engine oil with the car engine idling or try to change a spare tyre while the car is in motion.
as far as I know you shouldnt get a problem if the system turned off & you unplug rca's or let your speaker wires touch the body of the car. I dont think I removed my batt pole last swap I did & I had wires hanging all over.

[nervewrecker]

Whether it turned on or not, there is still an electrical circuit present. Doesn't the deck have a wire going directly to the battery?

educate me, what the purpose of a switch?

Read The Factory Manual - disconnect negative battery pole when making any connections/disconnections.

I guess you learned that the hard way?

Dunno how more simple Pioneer and myself could put it for people to understand.
too easy

[nervewrecker]

Simple, go touch a positive terminal on your car body without disconnecting the ground and tell us what happens.

And no it never happened to me, simple common sense and form 3 physics thought you that.

liar! the only time you bad talk something is when it fails you

I know amps store current in the caps, I pull the fuse out of my distro block before removing any wires & I disconnect them from the amps terminals themselves & leave them connected to whatever. Thats how I remove all my equip, I kill the power to it by removing the fuse (I have my reasons why its not a bright idea to constantly remove my batt poles).
the head unit on the other hand does not have an external fuse to kill the power to it so I will remove the batt pole as a precaution in that case. the wires remain connected to the harness, I pull the harness out leaving them connected to whatever. those wires dead & can do no harm. I never let wires connected to equipment touch each other or ground off.
only once I had no option but to remove my head unit with the batt still connected & I blew the fuse under the hood. thats was when I took out my old head unit.

[nervewrecker]

I usually disconnect the +tive terminal on the batt if I have to, is there a specific reason why the -tive must be pulled?

[nervewrecker]

my -tive terminal is near the fender, the +tive terminal is nearer to the engine & there is ample space to turn a spanner or wrench there.
If arcing / grounding is a problem simple common sense will tell you to use an insulated tool (primary school science).
Even if space is a problem, with enough care & patience one can remove the terminal without arcing off anything.

[nervewrecker]

how did I destory it?

anyhow, a smart person will not work with a few inches of space between the -tive terminal & the cars body risking the tool comming into contact with the body & causing a potential spark. batts release hydrogen gas....spark + hydroegn gas = ?
I'd work with where I have ample space & nothing to ground off on. sense come before book.

An even smarter person first checks to see if there are other batts & pulls the main fuse on the power cable so the vehicle electricals does not reset. Most peoples audio systems are additions & are connected to the vehicles electrical system via that power cable so pulling the fuse disconnects it.
On the other hand if one has to get close to / interfere with the vehicles electricals I'd recommend disconnecting the batt terminal. I see no reason to disconnect the batt pole if a simple amp swap has to be done provided that the amp is eaisly accesible & is away from all other electrical wiring.

I know you trying to fish out why its not wise to disconnet my batt pole, keep dreaming.

[nervewrecker]

thinks to self: "what language do I have to bray in for this jacka$$ to understand?"

mouta pm's I get already saying leave him alone cuz jacka$$ hard of understanding english.

does your amp manual recommend you fuse your amp externally although it already has onboard fuses? (not the main fuse at the batt)

the idea in removing the batt pole is so the wire is dead & then you wire up your amp. tell me whats the difference between putting the wire into the amp terminal & into the distro block when there is no fuse to close the circuit? isnt it the same thing? all you do is slip the fuse into the distro block after. where in gods name is elecricty being introduced into that circuit?

clearly book come before sense in your case.

I am not disputing removing the -tive terminal if you have to disconnet the batt but what if it is not accessible? I suppose you leave it on & go about your merry way cuz the amp manual never said anything bout removing the +tive terminal?

[nervewrecker]

also the space around the poles on tye batts are a vent for the flammable hydrogen gas that is a by product of the chemical reactions in the batt case. when the wires are connected to the poles theer is a small spark. if the instal is being done in an area where the air is stagnant & not circulated hydrogen gas buildup under the hood can be iginited.
yoo do know the primary reason for installing batts in a well vented area is to disperse of the flammable hydrogen gas right? I guess your manual never said anything about that so its not important.