Anyone here tried installing coil packs on each plug.............to do away with that high voltage wire to the rear plugs. Seems to be a very easy mod.
Video Of VR-4 with speed cut removed Dont know if i should tell how its done. Have never seen a crashed Galant locally dont want to start a trend since this trick works on any VR-xxx......................
HOW TO: Change your alternator Great Write Up
First of an Alt from a MIVEC V6 FTO or Galant is an identical part and should be easily found
What you will need: 12 & 14mm Sockets and spanners (ratchet spanners are recomended) Jack or Hoist Jack stands (DO NOT WORK UNDER A JACK ALONE) Flat head screw driver (to remove undertray clips) And the usual wheels change tools
OK so up on the hoist he goes (or jack STANDS) Remove: R/H Front wheel Engine splash sheild/undertray (under engine and attached part that also bolt to chassis rail) exhaust front pipe to cat O2 sensor
Now ya got room to move, start by loosening tension on the belt and removing top Alt bolt (this is done from the engine bay) Get back into the wheel well and remove the bottom Alt bolt and shove the Alt out of the way towards the firewall. This give axcess to the cam belt inspection cover (about the size of a smoke packet and plastic located directly under the Alt bracket) Remove this cover. Now remove the Alt bracket.
By removing the Alt bracket this gives you room to wiggle the Alt out between the driveshaft and chassis.
Reverse and ya done.
As I said this job took a total of about an hour and a half from start to finish. The reason for removing the front pipe is simply that ya can't get ya arms in there with it in place, lol
This is the Alt. once loose and a pic of the Alt. bracket and the inspection cover. Both the bracket and the cover have to be removed to allow the Alt. to come out.
ok, this is a close up of the bracket and cover removed. The one with my hand in it is the angle to get the Alt. out. If you look closely you can see there is plently of room to get it out if you have the right angle
BANzai Rastafarai wrote: but prices reeeeeeeeeeedickculus tho!!
man calling $3500 fuh a piece ah iron yes!!!
$10k for engine an tranny.............cool so i wanted tranny alone man tell me $7k $5k for plastic gas tank up from $500 in 2005 I had to ask him if we in Zimbabwe
BANzai Rastafarai wrote: but prices reeeeeeeeeeedickculus tho!!
man calling $3500 fuh a piece ah iron yes!!!
$10k for engine an tranny.............cool so i wanted tranny alone man tell me $7k $5k for plastic gas tank up from $500 in 2005 I had to ask him if we in Zimbabwe
weekend gone a black vr4 with no bumper and big intercooler pass me like if i stand up on the highway...and a woman was driving and she cud handle d car!...d car and d girl look good
hey thanks a lot bro...u really helped me out but i have 1 more question, if that is the AYC Fuse, how come my EA7A VR galant has d fuse and wires and no AYC pump? d original harness for my car has it but d vr4 harness doesn't. dat kinda wierd
Not weired u just probably had traction control (TCL)or active stability control(ASC) on the old harness..........which is a ABS thing good for snow an ice which means your car would have been a 4WD mountain car with wipers in the back.
When you mash out an ABS detected wheel spin or just from hitting ice or driving on wet roads with bald tires it will lock up brakes on that wheel to slow it down. Those turbo pick-up men would not be able to peel out at junctions if they had this. If you want to experience this for yourself mash out an mash brakes slightly an see the great 6A13TT beast get tamed.
I have a GDI Chariot harness with this feature an the VR-4 (AYC/TCL/ASC) ECU plugs into it but the pinouts are slightly different.
according to the previous Singapore owner, d galant is...i mean was a Mitsubisht Galant VR Super Sport.(well thas wat it mark on d leather case i got in d glove compartment)
My galant was FWD. it didnt have any rear wipers or any traction or stability controller switches. it was more-or-less a normal sharkmouth galant. but it came original with 5x114.3 hole combination, turbo cedia wagon front brakes, full VR4 body kit and fully black interior with carbon fiber finish on the centre console.
just a liltle mods done to it so far 3inch exaust ecu flashed 12psi of boost in the process of of changing intercooler and pipes,transmission cooler and retune for 16 psi on 12psi made 220hp and 246ft lbs of torque to the wheel
Was back on the dyno this weekened...... @15psi the vr made 240hp@5500rpm.....265ft lbs@3600rpm dyno time ran out, but i think the car could of made 250-260hp.. ecu flashing now being done......(holla)
I will have a 7202 ECU installed tommorow an I am auto have a oil cooler to install for the tranny an going hard pipe on hot an cold side of the a evo intercooler
V@lLz V@G, you need to work on your breathing...at 15lb we were doing near 285whp...key is breathing....and yes the inter-cooler and piping needs upgrading.
Careful with the intercooler size....i'm seeing huge ass intercoolers on VR's and wondering if the pewny conchs can handle that cfm....mines surely didnt.
intercooler and piping already change{evo 7} and my car is auto, which when dyno,loses about 8-10% more power than a manual trans. as i said, the car i think could of make 250-260 whp traction control was giving trouble and used up some dyno time tryin to sort it out.......