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Coil pack on a Nissan Almera qg16 e trottel keep burning

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Winky dan
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Coil pack on a Nissan Almera qg16 e trottel keep burning

Postby Winky dan » August 28th, 2020, 8:18 am

Hi I am trying to get some help here I have a Almera with a qg16 e trottel the car was working fine all the time but one day one pack blow so I thought it was normal so I had a extra one In my car so I put in when I put it in it started idle good again but maybe an 30 minutes drive after it blow again but this time I smell burn on the coil pack so I change all four coil pack car back working good so I maybe drive for maybe an hour the next coil pack blow with the same burning problem before you know it all for call you back was blow the next morning I tried starting the car with some other coil coil but the car did not start so I end up changing the brain when I change that brain the car started and then everything was fine I drive the car for a half an hour then was the same problem with the coil burning so can someone give me a good advice what you think it was the problem

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Dave
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Re: Coil pack on a Nissan Almera qg16 e trottel keep burning

Postby Dave » August 28th, 2020, 8:40 am

Start simple, how many kilos ago were the plugs changed?

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Kevinzz
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Re: Coil pack on a Nissan Almera qg16 e trottel keep burning

Postby Kevinzz » September 13th, 2020, 1:55 am

Which coil pack melted on the engine? (1,2,3 or 4) from left to right. Had the same issue a few months ago which resulted from buying "fake genuine" nissan coil packs that come in a brown box. My number 4 coil pack to the far right of the engine melted down and damaged my ECU as a result. And it's a local almera so getting another ECU is a task in itself.

Reason being the "fake genuine" packs have no resistors in between the metal springs that bridge the connection between the spark plug and the coil pack output.

Best advice I can give you is to check your ECU's ground connection and make sure it good. Then check your coil packs and make sure they have that resistor in between the metal springs that make contact. Just pull apart the long stem that goes into the cylinder head near the top of the pack. Be careful thou as the rubber is pretty soft. You should see two metal springs with a little fuse looking component in the middle. If all is well so far, do an ECU reset by disconnecting the battery and touching the positive wire of the car to any bare metal surface (or the negative wire of the car) and leave it for about 15 minutes. Reconnect the battery and see if that helps.

But as Dave said, start simple. Before doing any of this, check your plugs and make sure they're good and the ceramic (white piece) isn't cracked or the electrode on the plug isn't worn down.

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