What suspension?
What brakes?
Vinesh you'll need a number of stuff, below is a
small list.
ENGINE
1) Complete RB25DET engine and gearbox with appropriate engine harness, ECU and ancillaries (if auto ignore the following 3 items). You said from RB20E so you won't be able to reuse your A/C compressor and power-steering assembly.
2) Clutch pedal and slave cylinder from R32 (S13 will work with minor adjustment)
3) R32 brake pedal or simply cut your stock pedal to suit
4) Handbrake lever (A31 preferably, R32 is ok or as a last resort S13) and for "aesthetic" purposes appropriate center console.
5) Modified accelerator cable. I'm not 100% sure if it'll be the same but on the RB25DE conversion my mech did out of a Stagea the cable was too long and there was minor play in the accelerator pedal.
6) Intercooler and piping.
7) Fuel pump (don't even think about driving without it).
8 ) Modified driveshaft. The stock C33 driveshaft (all come auto as far as I'm aware) will have to be shortened and the yolk for the matching driveshaft to the gearbox you're installing will have to be welded on. OR you can use a RB20 gearbox and use the front half from a R32 with the rear half of your driveshaft but be warned the RB20 gearbox wouldn't last long.
Upgrade your brakes (calipers, rotors & master-cylinder/booster). Not critical right away if you're a responsible driver. 2 line master-cylinders are ABS and most likely useless whereas the 3 line one is the one you're looking for (non-ABS). Use from either the BM-44, BM-50 or BM58.
Upgrade your differential. Again, not critical if you're a responsible driver.
Most like you have a R200 and most R200's will work. Source one from a R32, S13 or A31/C33. You can also swap a complete R32 GTS-T rear end and get the 2 pot brakes in the rear. The stock Nissan R200 diffs. are viscous (not so great as they loose their effectiveness over time) whereas most aftermarket diffs are mechanical and offer better "locking".
Note:
If going with the stock auto RB25 transmission I've been told there's no need to modify the driveshaft.
C35 spindles work for the 5 lug conversion if you don't want to redrill the rotors from the Skyline, Silvia OR Z32.
R32 GTR shocks bolt differently to R32 GTS-T so I'm not 100% sure the complete subframe can be swapped from a BNR32.
C33 engine mounts won't need to change/modify but remember there'll be more strain/torque than what the little 20E offered so it may be wise to upgrade to polyurethane mounts in the future. Same goes for suspension bushings.
Apparently sometimes the sump of the RB25 actually hits and rubs against the stabiliser bar, not sure if cud be as a result of damaged engine mounts, chassis damage, incorrect cross-member or just a bent bar.
If I missed out anything, someone please add.
