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Ques: CA18DET Turbocharged!!!

Sunny to Skyline - SR20, CA18, RB20-26, VG30 etc.

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Ques: CA18DET Turbocharged!!!

Postby Sdiztiq » June 17th, 2008, 3:28 pm

Hey tuners,
I am considering buying a vehicle with a CA18DET Turbo engine in it. I did some research abt this engine on the net and was not fully satisfied! I would like to know what you all know experience wise about this engine, typical problems etc......

Any help with your replies to this post will be truly appreciated,
Thanks!

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Postby Maserati » June 17th, 2008, 5:39 pm

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/inde ... topic=2820
There is also a common tendency for the CA18 engines to leak oil from the cam cover gaskets (rocker covers). But it is easy to stop, the cover retaining screws (large philips heads) just work loose over time and also below the back of each cover there is a half round grommet from where the cam bearings were bored from the back. The cover gasket may need a bit of silicon gasket compound over this grommet as it seems to leak there also even with the cam covers done up tight.


CA18DET

Sheer age if probably one of the biggest problem for the CA18 engine. Some key points to bear in mind while assessing these engines is corrosion, cracking, perishing and simple wears.

CAMSHAFT WEAR

In the CA18, the biggest wear is actually the crank-angle sensor drive. This has a drive key that can wear to the point that full advance can still leave the cam timing retarded, losing about 50% or more of its power. The only solution is to replace the exhaust camshaft with a better item that has been carefully checked if you have brought your CA everyone and no one can fixed it.

TURBOCHARGES

As mentioned earlier, being a decade-old turbo engine nearly always have problem. Normally it is the result of less-than-optimum lubrication (dirty oil) that adds distress to turbo failure. Worn bearings allowing shaft movement adds on to turbo failure as well.

Not many people know that the oil feed line to the turbocharger on the CA runs very close to the exhaust manifold and being small in diameter, the oil gets very hot and result in oil cooking and block failure of the feed line. Hence, whilst getting a new turbo upgrade on the CA, a good mechanic will cleans this line before replacing a turbocharger. This is also a good time to upgrade to a larger turbo for better performance.

HEAD GASKETS

Blown head gasket through denotation is another problem on most turbo cars. The head gasket problems on the CA often involves mechanical fracture of the gasket. A good way to know if your head gasket is blown or not is to look at the cylinder head just in front of the turbocharger to see the telltale coolant weeping down the block. It is not a big problem unless the turbo starts to spoof really slowly and coolant loss becomes a major problem. A repair would be to replace a new head gasket which cost up to $400 dollars for a new head gasket and workmanship.

COIL PACKS

The CA18 has its fair share of coil-related ignition problem due to their exposure to heat, moisture and vibration plus their age. A coil problem can be felt as a cold-engine misfire or a misfire on boost for one cylinder. A telltale sign for the coil problem will have ?tracking? marks on its underside where the spark has been jumping through to the side of the plug hole.

A remedy is to meticulously clean the rubber boots and coil bodies with alcohol, then coating them in an insulating compound. In serious cases, it will be off to a wrecking place to get another coil.

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Postby Sdiztiq » June 18th, 2008, 10:44 am

^^Thanks alot brother, that information really helped :wink:

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Postby 33 hertz » June 18th, 2008, 5:46 pm

Typical problem with the ca18det is worn bearings, so if you buying one foreign used make sure to take a look at the connecting rod and main bearings, they not that costly to replace but will ensure your engine can take the pressure when you increase boost. They take ALOT of jamming, and will run down sr20det's if properly tuned. The only downside of this engine is the availability of parts as it's not as common as sr20's. Typical timing belt, fluid changes, acc. belts and misc. oil seals and you have a really reliable engine and the stock block can handle 450hp :D I have no complaints with mine

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Postby DJ Q » November 10th, 2008, 2:42 pm

so would you all recommend buying one of these engines in this day and age?

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Postby 33 hertz » November 10th, 2008, 4:47 pm

It depends on you budget and goals. Keep in mind that these engines are old and not as common as sr20's so make sure you have a good mechanic and know where to look for parts. I am currently on my second ca18det and they are lots of fun but be prepared to spend some good time and money by the mech.

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Postby DJ Q » November 10th, 2008, 7:49 pm

hmmm... so maybe it's better to just invest in an sr20det

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Postby 33 hertz » November 10th, 2008, 8:26 pm

If I had to do a swap again I would go with a sr20det.

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Postby DJ Q » November 10th, 2008, 10:07 pm

thanks man

what's the average price of a black top?

i read that puts out 245 hp stock :shock:

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Postby BlueIce » November 11th, 2008, 7:08 am

33 hertz, gave a first hand experience unbiased view. I myself went through the ca18det phase, very nice little engine! but it just couldnt take the abuse i gave it...eventually she overheated (most common ca problem).....ended up swapped it out for a sr20det instead of pelting more money behind it. And the sr going strong without any problems. :fadein:

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Postby DJ Q » November 11th, 2008, 7:39 am

what's the average price of a black top?

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Postby BlueIce » November 11th, 2008, 7:54 am

s13 BT/RT used to be between 10-12K , i was in the bamboo weekend and i asked a couple places just for kix....they are now selling for 12-14K :? and front cuts going for 18K :shock: bone stock

and the s13 BT puts out 205hp while the s14 BT puts out 220hp ...the s15 BT puts out close to 240hp

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Postby DJ Q » November 11th, 2008, 9:03 am

what is s13 14 and 15?

different versions of the sr20det?

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Postby joel » November 11th, 2008, 9:23 am

the different silvias they came in...

S15 was the last silvia...

BlueIce,
nissan not makin them again ent?

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Postby DJ Q » November 11th, 2008, 12:37 pm

the different silvias they came in...

S15 was the last silvia...


oh ok thanks

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Postby BlueIce » November 11th, 2008, 1:05 pm

what is s13 14 and 15?

different versions of the sr20det?

s13, s14, s15 are the different models of nissan silvia , the s13 was the first series produced in the early 90's...followed by s14 in mmid 90's and the s15 was late 90's see the link below for the ful history and models that came silvia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Silvia

and each model came with an updated version of the RWD sr20det, so yes also 3 different versions of the sr20det

BlueIce,
nissan not makin them again ent?

unfortunately :cry:

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Postby DJ Q » November 11th, 2008, 2:33 pm

can an sr20det fit in a rover 200?

or will it require some serious modifications?

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Postby -bushman- » November 17th, 2008, 1:14 pm

DJ Q, you is a mad man oh wah?

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Postby DJ Q » November 17th, 2008, 1:27 pm

-bushman- wrote:DJ Q, you is a mad man oh wah?

slightly but what does that have to do with my question

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CA18

Postby Muffy » November 17th, 2008, 4:01 pm

33 hertz wrote:Typical problem with the ca18det is worn bearings, so if you buying one foreign used make sure to take a look at the connecting rod and main bearings, they not that costly to replace but will ensure your engine can take the pressure when you increase boost. They take ALOT of jamming, and will run down sr20det's if properly tuned. The only downside of this engine is the availability of parts as it's not as common as sr20's. Typical timing belt, fluid changes, acc. belts and misc. oil seals and you have a really reliable engine and the stock block can handle 450hp :D I have no complaints with mine


Could not say that any better! I have no problems what so ever either, and it does wuk :twisted:

Some SR men know this too. :lol:

Btw; these are stronger than SR any day..

RB small brother, what you expect.. 8-)

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Postby DJ Q » November 17th, 2008, 5:38 pm

can an sr20det fit in a rover 200?

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Postby BlueIce » November 18th, 2008, 6:47 am

sr20det can fit in almost anything.

I've seen sr20dets in rovers before, but the question is are you willing to do that much fab work to get it in there properly?

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Postby DJ Q » November 18th, 2008, 7:35 am

how much work?

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Postby BlueIce » November 18th, 2008, 8:28 am

can't help you there. I'm not familiar with rovers.

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Postby ashtonishment » January 12th, 2009, 1:16 pm

My experience with my CA18 DET in a Nissan 720 King Cab was quite incredible. A metal water line to the turbo developed a leak which was just a trickle. One Saturday Morning I left Freeport to St. Augustine. Upon reaching Grand Bazaar Lights, the van stalled, i tried to start it back but it was not tumbling. The pistons were locking up. I opened the radiator cover and there was not a drop of water. After it cooled i started it again ( adding water off course) and proceeded to the nearest radiator shop. When i reached Curepe same thing occurred. this time water spraying from the line. No luck in Curepe, so i went to Tunupuna, Pistons seized again. I finally reached Deos Radiator wher it was fixed. That happened in 2006 and to this day 2009, that CA18 still runs like a beyotch!!!! No Engine job was ever done!

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Postby 33 hertz » January 12th, 2009, 1:59 pm

^ you real lucky hoss, was this a local or foreign used engine?

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Postby insane indian#1 » January 12th, 2009, 6:22 pm

Hey guys interesting info, learnt a lot, i have a CA16de, i need a camshaft mine has a mitsubishi sign on it, i dont think that d original. my engine does not idle properly, any solutions or sugessions would be appreciated, or any one have an old engine i heard u can subsitute CA16,CA18 parts. THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!

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Postby 33 hertz » January 12th, 2009, 7:32 pm

I think you mean the crank angle sensor. The thing that adjusts the timing with the 3 bolts? The original sensor does have a mitsu sign so no need to worry.
Idling problems are most likely caused by dirty injectors, bad coilpacks, fouled plugs, dirty AFM, dirty iac or ficd. Clean out/check those things before you change the Crank angle sensor as its pretty costly to replace and difficult to find.
If you give me a better description of the symptoms i can help you find your problem.

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Postby Conrad » January 12th, 2009, 8:22 pm

33 hertz wrote:I think you mean the crank angle sensor. The thing that adjusts the timing with the 3 bolts? The original sensor does have a mitsu sign so no need to worry.


Don't sheit me up :lol: I thought one of the previous owners of my Ceffy was a crack that installed shitty parts on the RB20. :lol:

You do learn something everyday.

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Postby 33 hertz » January 12th, 2009, 8:36 pm

^ yeah don't let the mitsu guys see that though, they will have a field day.

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